4l80 swap vibrations
4l80 swap vibrations I finally finished up my 60 to 80 swap. Everything is good except for anything above 50mph I'm gettin a really bad vibration, bad enough that I don't feel comfortable driving any faster to see if the vibration will go away. One thing I did notice with the swap was the weight on my stock driveshaft was hitting the ds loop on my spoon torque arm crossmember, so I had to cut the loop off for the time being. I'm assuming this means the rear of the trans is lower than what the 60 was. If this is the case would this cause that bad of a vibration?
Al ready had shims under it but not enough. Got it shimmed up this morning and checked my angles. Trans is pointing down 2.4 degrees and pinion is up 1.5 degree. Still have a really bad vibration. I'm starting to wonder if my driveshaft needs looking at.
Pinion angle gets my vote
You can also check for true by placing the vehicle on stands and getting someone to run it in gear to speed and literally look at it from below. Be VERY sure it is safely on stands but if the shaft is out of whack you can usually see it wobble or using a magic marker sloooooowly and carefully lean the tip into the shaft to verify its running concentric.
My local shaft shop doesnt use weights only spins and trues them with heat and cool. Super smooth, everytime
You can also check for true by placing the vehicle on stands and getting someone to run it in gear to speed and literally look at it from below. Be VERY sure it is safely on stands but if the shaft is out of whack you can usually see it wobble or using a magic marker sloooooowly and carefully lean the tip into the shaft to verify its running concentric.
My local shaft shop doesnt use weights only spins and trues them with heat and cool. Super smooth, everytime
Pinion angle gets my vote
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY
You can also check for true by placing the vehicle on stands and getting someone to run it in gear to speed and literally look at it from below. Be VERY sure it is safely on stands but if the shaft is out of whack you can usually see it wobble or using a magic marker sloooooowly and carefully lean the tip into the shaft to verify its running concentric.
My local shaft shop doesnt use weights only spins and trues them with heat and cool. Super smooth, everytime
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY
You can also check for true by placing the vehicle on stands and getting someone to run it in gear to speed and literally look at it from below. Be VERY sure it is safely on stands but if the shaft is out of whack you can usually see it wobble or using a magic marker sloooooowly and carefully lean the tip into the shaft to verify its running concentric.
My local shaft shop doesnt use weights only spins and trues them with heat and cool. Super smooth, everytime
In a perfect world you want the crank centerline running straight through the pinion and use the suspension for all loading concerns. If your angles are wonky and you run it and look at it, see video I posted for expected behavior if the shaft is your problem re pinion angle concerns. If the shaft is wonky use the marker trick. Dont know what else to tell ya.
Tires/wheels are the exact same config as prior to 80e swap? Nothing else changed? obviously driveshaft is different or shorter with different yoke so thats where im thinking your problem is.
Tires/wheels are the exact same config as prior to 80e swap? Nothing else changed? obviously driveshaft is different or shorter with different yoke so thats where im thinking your problem is.
In a perfect world you want the crank centerline running straight through the pinion and use the suspension for all loading concerns. If your angles are wonky and you run it and look at it, see video I posted for expected behavior if the shaft is your problem re pinion angle concerns. If the shaft is wonky use the marker trick. Dont know what else to tell ya.
Tires/wheels are the exact same config as prior to 80e swap? Nothing else changed? obviously driveshaft is different or shorter with different yoke so thats where im thinking your problem is.
Tires/wheels are the exact same config as prior to 80e swap? Nothing else changed? obviously driveshaft is different or shorter with different yoke so thats where im thinking your problem is.
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Verdad Gallardo Finally found the majority of my vibration. My factory trans mount has the metal tab hanging off of the front of it and was sandwiched between the trans and crossmember. I cut this off and it greatly reduced my vibrations. I think getting the pinion dialed in will take care of the rest.