Stock rear end
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Stock rear end I got a 2002 Camaro z28 with the t56 trans. I was wanting to know with what I have if I should worry about the rear end. I currently have flowmaster catback exhaust and a slp air box lid. Thinking of doing the ssra jaws ram air scoop and slp headers with new xpipe exhaust that dumps before the axle. Thanks for any help in advance.
I just depends. Things like sticky tires, launching hard, wheelhop, etc...all can kill a 10 bolt pretty fast. On the flipside if you minimize all that it can do pretty good. I'm still on the stock 10 bolt with the mods in my signature. Its basically how you drive it that will detwrmine the outcome
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 442
I was told not to worry that it would handle a pair of Mickey Thompson's on the back while making 380 wheel. I kid you not on my way home from Discount Tire I did a light pull from 3500 to 5000 RPM and it shattered my ring gear and spider gears. Garbage. I recommend saving for a 9-inch rear. If you do not have any suspension components I believe the mwc option will be your best bet because it already comes with a torque arm and is a lightweight Superior design. If you already have a torque arm then I recommend the quick performance 9-inch rear. I also highly recommend a set of lower control arms and a panhard bar. You're going with dump duals please know that you will have a little more vibrations in the interior of the car. I have dumped duals with a cam and long tubes and it is totally manageable once I installed two point subframe connectors. There is a minor rattle somewhere in the back and the button on the a4 shifter rattles.
I suggest getting no less than 35 spline axles, get them gun drilled too, they will give younthe same strength and weigh less too. Keep your eye out for used rear ends on here. They go up for sale from time to time
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
ok just heard thur some people that it did. so right now with just what I have on it now/what I said i will be doing some will be safe as it stands now, also if I do the other stuff or should I stop now and focus on building up the suspension? Should I bump the rear end to the top of my list?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Like I was mentioning above if you plan on launching hard on sticky tires, get wheelhop, or even power shift on occasion you'd be wise to start saving for a rear now. Stay away from these mentioned things and you'll likely be fine for some time
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
I'm not brave enough for power shifting or clutch less shifting. I will on occasion speed shift run thru the gears real fast but I release the throttle and depress the clutch be fore shifting then to, but I do like roll into the throttle then bury the throttle and speed shift. sorry if my responses sound stupid first standard so still learning. But trying to make sure I learn and do things right don't want the car going down on me cause I'm an idiot.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 442
Been there done that already tried to beef up to 10 bolt rear end it did not work. Since you already got a torque arm, Maybe a quick performance 9-inch would be your best bet because they have it priced very competitively. Sumitomos are garbage, that is what I ran before I got the MTs. Get a good set of lower control arms and a panhard rod. You can combo the arms and Rod with BMR or Umi. Midwest chassis is also another good place. I highly recommend going with polyurethane for a streetcar. If you plan on lowering the car you will need an adjustable panhard rod and torque arm. The quick performance rear end already comes with lower control arm relocation brackets. Of course for straight line performance you will run these on the lowest point regardless of right height. Couple that with a transmission crossmember relocation bracket this will allow you to adjust instant Center.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,758
Likes: 442
You will be in the whole project probably 3 grand. The rear housing and axles and complete carrier unit will set you back about 2500 bucks + control arms + panhard rod. You will then need gear oil. You will need some sort of angle grinder to cut the torque arm bracket and the housing bracket. You will need to cut the e-brake brackets. However you want to do brake lines is up to you. To me, it was a lot of money but it's worth it. I tried to fix the 10 bolt after it blew and I had nothing but problems after that so to have a rear end that doesn't make any noise but I know I can beat the snot out of and won't break is fantastic. I'm not familiar with a T56 transmission at all but I do know that the 4 l60e is going to have to be beefed up in my car before I can add an exuberant amount of power. Welcome to the world of the never-ending project car.
Just watch out for some of these rear end places, they will try to convince you that you need a $3,500 rear end when you dont. They will try to tell you you need 40 spline axles and and a center section that will hold 1,500 hp
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 105
Likes: 5
From: Cincinnati, Ohio
I've had my car for 4 years now and did heads and cam. I drive very spirited but don't use sticky tires currently for the reason of blowing my rear. But I have a MWC fab 9 coming so now I will actually get to launch the car hard and take it to the track more. If you're just staying pretty much bolt ons I wouldn't worry about spending the money on a rear just yet. But it all depends how you drive it and if you plan to track it etc.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
I know this is another stupid question but do I have to replace the whole rear end housing and all? Or can I swap out the innards in it for stronger stuff and still have the same result or will it be just as weak only having spent more money on it?
If I was going to spend 3k on a rear end for a M6 fbody, I would shy away from the 8.8 and 12 bolt. Especially when you could get a 9 or S60 for the same basic price
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 403
Likes: 15
From: Dundee, MI
I'm surprised no one feels the diff covers help. I firmly believe a studded diff cover will help a bit. There was a thread on here like 10 years ago that did a poll showing how 10 bolts we're doing behind both an A4 and M6. The A4's we're obviously pretty good, but the M6 guys with the T/A diff cover had better luck. It was not scientific, and there were certainly still failures, but it did seem to suggest some aid. For $150 it may be worth it to some. I have one and it could be a reason my 4.10 geared 10 bolt has endured.
I think what's likely working against you is the upgraded stiffer torque arm. I've always kept the stocker with the 10 bolt, and I believe that because it twists and deflects, it keeps the 10 bolt carrier from distorting. Again, just my opinion, but it's worked well for me so far.
I think what's likely working against you is the upgraded stiffer torque arm. I've always kept the stocker with the 10 bolt, and I believe that because it twists and deflects, it keeps the 10 bolt carrier from distorting. Again, just my opinion, but it's worked well for me so far.