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10-bolt rebuild

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Old Jul 1, 2018 | 10:42 AM
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Default 10-bolt rebuild

The last time I had my rear end serviced years ago, the local rear end specialty shop said I should consider replacing my original axles the next time I rebuilt the rear end. The rear end is making noise again, so I'm preparing for the rebuild. I've thought about just popping the cover for an inspection and then refill with new fluid. I'm admittedly horrible with rear-end fluid changes, I never remove the break-in gear oil until it's time to replace parts. I was researching a 9" conversion, but gave up when I couldn't find a lightweight version that supported 3CH ABS, all OEM suspension mount points and OEM rear brakes. Did I overlook any options?

Below are the parts I am considering. I've read a horror story about a Yukon axle failing on a road course (which is in this cars future) and to stick with used OEM axles? The TrueTrac is a Torsen, so it requires no friction modifiers, and I read an opinion that 140 is too heavy for it and to stick with a 90 weight? I'm not aware of a c-clip elimination package that is reliable on the road course.

Detroit TrueTrac, PN 912A317
Yukon axles, PN YAG26059962
Torco RGO 85W-140 gear lube
ARP 7708 wheel studs

I had a T/A aftermarket diff cover installed on the last rebuild. Does that cover increase the fluid capacity over stock?
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Old Jul 1, 2018 | 11:11 AM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
The last time I had my rear end serviced years ago, the local rear end specialty shop said I should consider replacing my original axles the next time I rebuilt the rear end. The rear end is making noise again, so I'm preparing for the rebuild. I've thought about just popping the cover for an inspection and then refill with new fluid. If you dont know what you're looking at don't waste the time. I'm admittedly horrible with rear-end fluid changes, I never remove the break-in gear oil until it's time to replace parts. I was researching a 9" conversion, but gave up when I couldn't find a lightweight version that supported 3CH ABS, all OEM suspension mount points and OEM rear brakes. Did I overlook any options? 3 channel i dont think exist as optioned bc it requires a single wheel on the ring gear which isnt available for 9 inch to my knowledge. A 12 bolt could fill your needs though.

Below are the parts I am considering. I've read a horror story about a Yukon axle failing on a road course (which is in this cars future) and to stick with used OEM axles? The TrueTrac is a Torsen, so it requires no friction modifiers, correct and I read an opinion that 140 is too heavy for it and to stick with a 90 weight? 75/140 is what i run I'm not aware of a c-clip elimination package that is reliable on the road course. None that Im aware of

Detroit TrueTrac, PN 912A317
Yukon axles, PN YAG26059962
Torco RGO 85W-140 gear lube check out redline shockproof
ARP 7708 wheel studs

I had a T/A aftermarket diff cover installed on the last rebuild. Does that cover increase the fluid capacity over stock? Maybe a little, not much.
Answers in bold.
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Old Jul 1, 2018 | 01:00 PM
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After reading on Bobistheoilguy and the Torsen websites, I'm leaning towards the 90 weight lube. I realize the 140 weight is higher viscosity, which means it sticks to the parts better, which should offer better load protection, but also means better lubricity and less friction, and friction is what the Torsen needs. Since I'm planning to stick with OEM gears again, and the factory service manual recommends 75W90, that's another reason I'm leaning towards 90 to be more compatible with the OEM gears. Maybe a 75W110 would be a compromise.

Everything I've found on Redline's site regarding their three Shockproof varieties indicates it's extremely slippery, which means less friction for the differential, and also not to be used with coolers.
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Old Jul 1, 2018 | 01:06 PM
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I think you're overthinking it.
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Old Jul 2, 2018 | 01:28 AM
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Don’t run shockproof with a Gleason style differential. Don’t go above 90wt with a truetrac either.
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Old Jul 2, 2018 | 09:26 PM
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Three channel 9" exist, I've had one under my car for the past decade. I believe Midwest Chassis and Moser are the only two available that are 90% bolt-in. Other than a different torque arm and driveshaft everything else can use stock control arms, brakes, panhard, and weighs about 10lbs more than a 10-bolt.
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Old Jul 2, 2018 | 09:48 PM
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Old Jul 3, 2018 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by _JB_
Three channel 9" exist, I've had one under my car for the past decade. I believe Midwest Chassis and Moser are the only two available that are 90% bolt-in. Other than a different torque arm and driveshaft everything else can use stock control arms, brakes, panhard, and weighs about 10lbs more than a 10-bolt.
I have a decoupled torque arm that mounts to the factory rear-end that I do not wish to give up. There's no way to integrate the factory style torque arm mounting into the 9"?

What about other miscellaneous stuff, such as seals, bearings, shims, etc? Are there preferences for this other stuff or just let the shop decide on those parts?

Last edited by JimMueller; Jul 3, 2018 at 04:41 PM.
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Old Jul 3, 2018 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
I have a decoupled torque arm that mounts to the factory rear-end that I do not wish to give up. There's no way to integrate the factory style torque arm mounting into the 9"?

What about other miscellaneous stuff, such as seals, bearings, shims, etc? Are there preferences for this other stuff or just let the shop decide on those parts?
Call and ask them.
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Old Jul 4, 2018 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JimMueller
I have a decoupled torque arm that mounts to the factory rear-end that I do not wish to give up. There's no way to integrate the factory style torque arm mounting into the 9"?

What about other miscellaneous stuff, such as seals, bearings, shims, etc? Are there preferences for this other stuff or just let the shop decide on those parts?
I would consider installing a solid pinion spacer.
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