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Aftermarket Diff Cover Painted On The Inside..

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Old Aug 2, 2024 | 06:43 PM
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Default Aftermarket Diff Cover Painted On The Inside..

My rear had some work done to it not long ago and now the diff cover is leaking andI’m pretty sure the shop over tightened and bent the cover. So I ordered a cheap oem style and it turns out the inside is painted as well. I’m pretty sure they just dipped it into something because it’s so uniform front and back. Do y’all think the hot gear oil will take the paint off? I don’t want paint flakes and “slime” in there. I guess I could rub some gear oil on it to see what happens. Would y’all strip the paint before using it? I’m only $17 into it this far so I can swing a little paint stripper I guess 🤣


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Old Aug 2, 2024 | 07:04 PM
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
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Originally Posted by Y2K_Frenzy
My rear had some work done to it not long ago and now the diff cover is leaking andI’m pretty sure the shop over tightened and bent the cover.
By "bent" I assume you mean warped? It tightens against the diff housing so I really don't see how it could get bent no matter how hard you tighten it, but I guess warping is possible if it's seriously over-torqued in one spot during the first pass of a tightening sequence. Even still, the gasket would fully split long before the metal cover would warp, so the leaking would have started immediately if that was the case. Or maybe it was just slightly over-tightened and the gasket was damaged enough to fail prematurely but the cover is fine.

On the other hand, if they only used RTV instead of a gasket, as some folks like to do, perhaps the seal has just failed due to poor prep, etc.?
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Old Aug 2, 2024 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
By "bent" I assume you mean warped? It tightens against the diff housing so I really don't see how it could get bent no matter how hard you tighten it, but I guess warping is possible if it's seriously over-torqued in one spot during the first pass of a tightening sequence. Even still, the gasket would fully split long before the metal cover would warp, so the leaking would have started immediately if that was the case. Or maybe it was just slightly over-tightened and the gasket was damaged enough to fail prematurely but the cover is fine.

On the other hand, if they only used RTV instead of a gasket, as some folks like to do, perhaps the seal has just failed due to poor prep, etc.?
I noticed it dripping and I hoped a re-torquing of the bolts would fix it but all of the bolts were really tight. I didn’t try to back them off but they wouldn’t budge at all when I tried to tighten them. If memory serves I used a torque wrench the last time I put it on, and I think the spec was only something like 15 ft lbs, and I kind of remember being able to torque them past the torque spec. They won’t budge at all now after the shop tighten them so I’m kind of assuming they tightened it too much and warped the flange. If I was a betting man I bet they used RTV since it’s easier to keep on hand than gaskets for various males and models. Maybe it didn’t get a good seal which would be ideal I guess. But I’m pretty sure they tightend the sht out of it for better or for worse. I guess when I take it off I’ll see if it wobbles on its face. If it does I guess I’ll try the $8 cover. I guess I’ll strip the paint maybe. I dunno.
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