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99 t/a axle bearing and seal recommendation

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Old 02-17-2023, 08:24 AM
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Default 99 t/a axle bearing and seal recommendation

I’m changing out my rear axle bearings. Oriellys has various ones that look to fit but some have the seal/bearing all in one while others are separate. Can someone recommend a good they used?

Now for newbie questions.

For the all in one which end goes into the axle house first?

also I read the trick about putting it freezer to help with installation. Is there a chance I cap tap the bearing in too far or is the ridge in the axle housing that will prevent it from being pushed in too far?

Should I also grease up the bearing first or grease the axle housing where the axle goes?

it’s a posi tear end…is is pulling the axle the same procedure as non-posi and is there any anything I should pay extra attention to?







Last edited by etennett; 02-17-2023 at 07:47 PM.
Old 02-17-2023, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by etennett
I’m changing out my rear axle bearings. Oriellys has various ones that look to fit but some have the seal/bearing all in one while others are separate. Can someone recommend a good they used?

Now for newbie questions.

For the all in one which end goes into the axle house first?

also I read the trick about putting it freezer to help with installation.

Should I also greas up the bearing first or grease the axle housing where the axle goes?

it’s a posi tear end…is is pulling the axle the same procedure as non-posi and is there any anything I should pay extra attention to?
Since yours is a 99, it would have a Torsen posi and would have a 'block' (also called a paddle) instead of the big round pin as used with a non-posi.
Avoid the 'all in one' as some of them might be 'axle saver design' and keep the axle from going in far enough to seat the c-clip.
Bearing first, bit of grease in the axle housing bore for the bearing, they're not an extreme tight press fit, then seal pressed in to be flush with housing end.

Is there some reason you need to put in new axle bearings ?
Old 02-17-2023, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
Since yours is a 99, it would have a Torsen posi and would have a 'block' (also called a paddle) instead of the big round pin as used with a non-posi.
Avoid the 'all in one' as some of them might be 'axle saver design' and keep the axle from going in far enough to seat the c-clip.
Bearing first, bit of grease in the axle housing bore for the bearing, they're not an extreme tight press fit, then seal pressed in to be flush with housing end.

Is there some reason you need to put in new axle bearings ?
I have a rubbing noise back there at the wheel. No noise when cold, after it warms up it starts. More m noise when I turn.corners. Same noise whether in gear or coasting in neutral. I changed the pads, checked the e-brake, rotor looks good. Also have some play in the wheel when I pull and push it. That leaves the bearing as the culprit.

so my service manual says nothing about the paddle for a posi. How would I pull that out?

Thanks for your help with the bearing itself. Will go with the two piece.
Old 02-17-2023, 08:14 PM
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The pull/push play has nothing to do with the axle bearing.
Pulling the paddle is just like pulling the large round center pin, which seems like you're familiar with that.
Pulling the bearing out is more difficult than putting the new bearing in.

Pic of Torsen showing the paddle.

Old 02-18-2023, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z;[url=tel:20485424
20485424[/url]]The pull/push play has nothing to do with the axle bearing.
Pulling the paddle is just like pulling the large round center pin, which seems like you're familiar with that.
Pulling the bearing out is more difficult than putting the new bearing in.

Pic of Torsen showing the paddle.
is this the bolt that holds the paddle in. first time seeing what it looks like inside



Old 02-18-2023, 08:24 AM
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Yes, it's the same bolt/part number as on the other rears. Be sure to use a 6 point wrench/socket as 12 point tools have a tendency to round the hex head. If your car has traction control, you might have to remove the sensor(s) from the backing plate to allow the axle to go in far enough for c-clip removal.


Last edited by FirstYrLS1Z; 02-18-2023 at 08:30 AM.
Old 02-18-2023, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z;[url=tel:20485481
20485481[/url]]Yes, it's the same bolt/part number as on the other rears. Be sure to use a 6 point wrench/socket as 12 point tools have a tendency to round the hex head. If your car has traction control, you might have to remove the sensor(s) from the backing plate to allow the axle to go in far enough for c-clip removal.
I do have tractions control. I’m not really sure where those sensers are. On the outside of the axle housing? Also, I was planning on replacing driver and passenger bearings. Is the same paddle for not sides? The 99 service manual says nothing about posi or tcs when removing the axle rod.

Old 02-18-2023, 01:53 PM
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The one paddle provides access to both c-clips.
Traction control sensor circled.

Old 02-23-2023, 06:25 PM
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Thanks again FirstYrLS1Z. Last of the newbie questions and I’ll be ready to do this. Which end of the bearing goes in first? I assume it’s the end with the ridgei. When I tap in the bearing is there a chance I can tap it in too far, or is there ridge in the axle rod housing that will prevent it from going too far?


Last edited by etennett; 02-23-2023 at 06:51 PM.
Old 02-23-2023, 07:09 PM
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Doing something new/never done before, there'll always be apprehension, you'll be fine.
Which end of the bearing doesn't matter, there's a lip to stop it, pic enclosed.
Seal gets tapped in till flush with housing.
More questions are OK.

Old 02-24-2023, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
Doing something new/never done before, there'll always be apprehension, you'll be fine.
Which end of the bearing doesn't matter, there's a lip to stop it, pic enclosed.
Seal gets tapped in till flush with housing.
More questions are OK.
im ready to pull the trigger. Here’s what my gears look like. Is the bolt holding the paddle a 5/16 or an 8mm. I can’t tell as they both seem to fit.




Last edited by etennett; 02-24-2023 at 11:16 AM.
Old 02-24-2023, 11:57 AM
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Well you got past the messiest/stinkyest part, draining the gear lube.
Everything looks OK in the pic.
5/16".Technically 8mm is .003" larger than 5/16 so a 5/16 is best.
Putting the paddle back in is not orientation specific.
If you can pull the c-clips without having to remove the sensors on the backing plates,all the better.
The fill plug on the upper passenger side of the housing is square drive.
When you get the axles out, post a pic(s) of the axle surface that rides in the bearing.
Old 02-24-2023, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
Well you got past the messiest/stinkyest part, draining the gear lube.
Everything looks OK in the pic.
5/16".Technically 8mm is .003" larger than 5/16 so a 5/16 is best.
Putting the paddle back in is not orientation specific.
If you can pull the c-clips without having to remove the sensors on the backing plates,all the better.
The fill plug on the upper passenger side of the housing is square drive.
When you get the axles out, post a pic(s) of the axle surface that rides in the bearing.
is that bolt a left loosey bolt? Seems to not want to come out. I’m wondering if it’s one of those opposite threaded bolts where I loosen it by turning the wrench to the right.
Old 02-24-2023, 03:51 PM
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Standard right hand thread direction. 5/16" open end/box wrenches are small/short, assume that's what you are using. I have a 'extra long' 5/16" wrench for that bolt. putting the socket end on, putting a finger over that socket end on bolt to hold it in position of socket on bolt and hitting the open end part of the wrench with a hammer typically breaks the initial tightened torque.
Old 02-24-2023, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
Standard right hand thread direction. 5/16" open end/box wrenches are small/short, assume that's what you are using. I have a 'extra long' 5/16" wrench for that bolt. putting the socket end on, putting a finger over that socket end on bolt to hold it in position of socket on bolt and hitting the open end part of the wrench with a hammer typically breaks the initial tightened torque.
Got it out but axle rods won’t go in far enough to pull the c clips off. it’s hitting the sensor like you had said it might. How do the abs sensors come off? Looks like 1 bolt and then gingerly pry off? You’re officially my Sherpa.






Last edited by etennett; 02-24-2023 at 04:18 PM.
Old 02-24-2023, 05:08 PM
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Yep, one bolt.
Old 02-24-2023, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z;[url=tel:20486848
20486848[/url]]Yep, one bolt.
had a little family emergency and want able to get to this. Thanks for all your help I’ll pull them off in the morning and shoot some pic.
Old 02-25-2023, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by etennett;[url=tel:20486896
20486896[/url]]had a little family emergency and want able to get to this. Thanks for all your help I’ll pull them off in the morning and shoot some pic.
I got the axles out! Is it normal to have differential fluid drip out of the axle rod housing?










Old 02-25-2023, 04:49 PM
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Yes, if the rearend was not level when it was drained, a tube might contain gear lube.
take pics of the axles, bearing area, as like pic enclosed.

Old 02-25-2023, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z;[url=tel:20486997
20486997[/url]]Yes, if the rearend was not level when it was drained, a tube might contain gear lube.
take pics of the axles, bearing area, as like pic enclosed.
will do I’ll take shots tomorrow morning . My daughters been in the hospital since yesterday so I’ve been spending a lot of time ther. Everything is ok she’s 18 and had got plastered last night, ended up in the hospital and things kind of went sideways once in.

Thanks for your patience much appreciated.


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