3.73's or 3.42's....and 10 bolt
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
3.73's or 3.42's....and 10 bolt some people are telling me i wouldnt be able to hook with 3.73's on street tires with a 3200 stall and lca's ....is this true...if so should i go with 3.42's....?
also i am not sure if my car has 2.73's or 3.42's in it..(i need to know so i know what carrier number i need 2 or 3)..i know this is a dumb question but how can i find out?
my last question is can a stock 10 bolt handle a gear and stall with out breaking even on et streets or no...ive been told it cant and then ive been told it can.....?
any input would help....thanks alot
also i am not sure if my car has 2.73's or 3.42's in it..(i need to know so i know what carrier number i need 2 or 3)..i know this is a dumb question but how can i find out?
my last question is can a stock 10 bolt handle a gear and stall with out breaking even on et streets or no...ive been told it cant and then ive been told it can.....?
any input would help....thanks alot
i did 3.42s and i just trashed em next time round im goin 3.73s look at my sig granted i do beat my car ive had 315-35-17 nitto 555r's for 7k miles and myrear is done and yes a 2 series carrier will need to be replaced if ya wanna do any 3 series gear im thinkin to do a torsen t-2r unit this time round if i dont just go a 12 bolt last time i did the slp take off unit for 100 bux and bought new gm gears but like i said even with new fluid carrier studs and a girdle with preload bolts my gears are toast (7k miles of fun drivin on nittos) so if you are doin slicks id do a moser or ford rearend youll probally snap your rear in a few runs if ya dont....... hell im not too confident even with race gars, and a t2r unit ill be ok for what i got keep in mind people snap their rears with stock power on street tires all the time so in a word NO
vigs are loose from the research ive done tci is dam good verter id say the best though some argue that yanks might peform slightly better for 2x the price and this is of course if it was built properly if not your fucked im a definite tci customer hell do a search on verter reviews youll see tci had hands down best revies on this board
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo
A4's came with either 3.23s or 2.73s. If you have 3.23s, at 70 mph you are taching just over 2000 rpm. With 2.73s you are under 2000 rpm.
don't touch your gears. Buy a good TC first. A Vig 2800 or Yank SS3600 will provide all the torque your street tires can handle, even with 2.73s.
don't touch your gears. Buy a good TC first. A Vig 2800 or Yank SS3600 will provide all the torque your street tires can handle, even with 2.73s.
Just an update.
2.73 => 13.39
3.42 => 13.16
I picked up .23 seconds. I think the car actually would have run faster but the 2-3 shift point was set way too high, 6400 rpm. I feel if the car shifted correctly I would have seen the 3 tenths I was hoping for.
2.73 => 13.39
3.42 => 13.16
I picked up .23 seconds. I think the car actually would have run faster but the 2-3 shift point was set way too high, 6400 rpm. I feel if the car shifted correctly I would have seen the 3 tenths I was hoping for.
I have 3.42s now and pretty good street tires, and they
still will not hold traction against a near-stock motor and
a 3000/2.2 converter. Must be the tuning
Even the prior 3.23s could command a one-wheel peel.
When I went to the 3.42s I also went T-2R and now
it's both, but more pedal to do it. If you have the cash
then think hard about putting in a better differential
than the stocker. The labor is the same whether you
do gears, or gears & chunk. But the chunk is another
$400-$500.
The higher the STR of the converter you choose the
worse it will be for traction off the line. If you are
going high on gear ratio then you don't need a big
2.5:1 STR, you probably want something with the
higher stall speed but a near-stock or even sub-stock
STR (like that one Yank with 3500/1.67). The 2.5:1
and like that really help out 2.73 cars but just rape
tires when you're geared down.
still will not hold traction against a near-stock motor and
a 3000/2.2 converter. Must be the tuning
Even the prior 3.23s could command a one-wheel peel.
When I went to the 3.42s I also went T-2R and now
it's both, but more pedal to do it. If you have the cash
then think hard about putting in a better differential
than the stocker. The labor is the same whether you
do gears, or gears & chunk. But the chunk is another
$400-$500.
The higher the STR of the converter you choose the
worse it will be for traction off the line. If you are
going high on gear ratio then you don't need a big
2.5:1 STR, you probably want something with the
higher stall speed but a near-stock or even sub-stock
STR (like that one Yank with 3500/1.67). The 2.5:1
and like that really help out 2.73 cars but just rape
tires when you're geared down.
I haven't put my TCI 3000 converter in, same one as you have jimmyblue. I'm hoping for another .4 tenths from the converter.
I must say I haven't had wheel hop until I added the 3.42's. Hopefully LCA's will help that.
I must say I haven't had wheel hop until I added the 3.42's. Hopefully LCA's will help that.
