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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 06:47 PM
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Default drive shaft?

Which driveshaft Chrome Moly or aluminium .I ordered a strange 12 bolt and I'am thinking about upgrading the stock one.
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Old Nov 17, 2004 | 07:32 PM
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i went with an LPE aluminum 3.5" DS.nice part imo.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ULTIMATEORANGESS
i went with an LPE aluminum 3.5" DS.nice part imo.
I have to agree. I replaced my steel one in my 97 formula. Night and day difference. no more vibrations either in high rpms. Well worth it. They had it on sale for only $239. Check there asap, it's a sweet buy. I paid $299 for mine and it's still worth it.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 12:53 AM
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Will this hold-up to a 6000rpm nitrous lanuch- 500rwhp/550rwtq?
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 03:39 AM
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Go with Inland Empire. That's what I got. You can get it made to fit your car exactly the way it should. They make it and ship it in 24 hours. It has a lifetime warranty to boot!
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SStolen
Will this hold-up to a 6000rpm nitrous lanuch- 500rwhp/550rwtq?
For that kind of launch, I'd think you'd want to go with a steel or chromolly unit. I remember someone saying that even Dennys didn't reccomened their HD Aluminum shaft for nitrous launches on slicks.
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Old Nov 19, 2004 | 09:33 PM
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1 for steel or chromolly 2 for aluminium.
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 01:18 PM
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is the 12 bolt driveshaft shorter than the stock one?
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 04:50 PM
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On the strange it's the same.I don't know about the moser .
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 05:23 PM
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i bought a driveshaft used on here that he said was on a stock rear.. it was 2 inches to short and now i'm gonna hafta buy a new one!!!!!! theres only about an inch and a half on the output shaft
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 05:59 PM
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I've heard of/seen several twisted/busted driveshafts. I know we busted one on the Firehawk when the rear broke...that was the stock aluminum one. While the aluminum may be lighter than steel...it's not as strong. If you're going with aluminum...I certainly hope you're running a driveshaft loop so you don't risk pole-vaulting your car....
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Old Nov 20, 2004 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Kenafin_02TA
I've heard of/seen several twisted/busted driveshafts. I know we busted one on the Firehawk when the rear broke...that was the stock aluminum one. While the aluminum may be lighter than steel...it's not as strong. If you're going with aluminum...I certainly hope you're running a driveshaft loop so you don't risk pole-vaulting your car....
Indeed, I have my loop. I agree, if you have serious power. Forget steel, titanium is the way to go. Still lighter and stronger than steel.
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 12:29 PM
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what about CF?arent they alot stronger than stock?i know theyre very expensive.




when i had my DS replaced under warranty i noticed it was an american axle unit.even though i put my LPE DS in it was still in good shape and looked like a beefy unit.i kept it as a spare.
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ULTIMATEORANGESS
what about CF?arent they alot stronger than stock?i know theyre very expensive.




when i had my DS replaced under warranty i noticed it was an american axle unit.even though i put my LPE DS in it was still in good shape and looked like a beefy unit.i kept it as a spare.
CF are $720 thats to pricey for me.
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 09:45 AM
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I have a Strange CM shaft. I like the quality but it is heavier than Aluiminum. If you are launching on N2O, I would not trust the aluminum for long.
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 12:00 PM
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I'am thinking of going with a 4 inch aluiminum
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by peterock98
I'am thinking of going with a 4 inch aluiminum

who makes those?
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Old Nov 22, 2004 | 10:11 PM
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I'd stay with a HD 3.5" aluminum driveshaft. All the guys I know that are fast use them and I don't know of anyone that's broken one. A chromeoly or steel shaft is too damn heavy and can cause vibrations. I've also seen tranny tailshaft housings crack from heavy driveshafts.
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 08:06 AM
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Look into Dynotech 3.5" HD aluminum (MMC) Metal Matrix complete with a new Spicer HD yoke, 1350 ends and u-joints for $507.
It's complete weight 12.5lbs
Just got one!
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Old Nov 23, 2004 | 10:27 PM
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I just installed a Dr. Evil transmission and now i have to get a custom driveshaft made. The new transmission is one inch shorter than what was in the car before. (this is not Dr. Evil's fault! they are really friendly & very helpful) The yoke doesnt fit the new tailshaft so it caused vibration. I just had the driveshaft shop put a longer yoke on mine so i can keep the car on the road till i get custom driveshaft made. Also when the driveshaft shop spun/balanced my driveshaft, they had to add a lot of weights to it (more than we liked). So any of you with a steel driveshaft with any vibration at all may want to have it spun/balanced & check the length of the yoke.

Everyone has been telling me that now is the time for an aluminum driveshaft, for weight savings. A rock ding will junk any aluminum driveshaft. Id rather have a few pounds heavier steel driveshaft than a weak aluminum driveshaft.
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