Axle install question
No special tools. Be careful not to damage axle seals when pulling out or sliding in new axles. Helms manual for '98-'02 F-bodies will tell you all steps if you've never pulled axles before. WJ
It's pretty simple, really...I would clean out all the old fluid from the tubes with some brake parts cleaner while the axles are out. Check the condition of the bearings and the seals before installing the new axles. Replace them if you see any signs of unusual wear.
My only complaint about the axles is that the hubcentric portion of it is shorter than the stock ones...so getting the wheels on is more difficult.
My only complaint about the axles is that the hubcentric portion of it is shorter than the stock ones...so getting the wheels on is more difficult.
You will need a puller if you are going to replace the axle bearings. Also, buy new fluid, gasket and friction modifier because you will have to pull the cover. To rempove the axle you have to disassemble you brakes, then remove the rear cover. There is a small bolt on the diff case that holds in the cross shaft. Remove that, push in slightly on the cross shaft, turn the case around and pull it out from the other side. Sometimes the pin will be hard to pull on from being slippery, if so push out the side that had the lock bolt in it and insert the lock bolt back in to use as a handle. Then just slide in the axle slightly and remove the c-clip from the center of the diff case, a magnet makes this part easier and comes in handy from reinstalling. Then just slide out the axle. Installing is the exact opposite. I would replace the axle bearings while you are in there, along with the seals, unless it has very low miles. The old bearigs and axles wear together similar to a brake pad and rotor, although not a severe.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by mzoomora
You will need a puller if you are going to replace the axle bearings. Also, buy new fluid, gasket and friction modifier because you will have to pull the cover. To rempove the axle you have to disassemble you brakes, then remove the rear cover. There is a small bolt on the diff case that holds in the cross shaft. Remove that, push in slightly on the cross shaft, turn the case around and pull it out from the other side. Sometimes the pin will be hard to pull on from being slippery, if so push out the side that had the lock bolt in it and insert the lock bolt back in to use as a handle. Then just slide in the axle slightly and remove the c-clip from the center of the diff case, a magnet makes this part easier and comes in handy from reinstalling. Then just slide out the axle. Installing is the exact opposite. I would replace the axle bearings while you are in there, along with the seals, unless it has very low miles. The old bearigs and axles wear together similar to a brake pad and rotor, although not a severe.
Thanks
-Mark
Your bearings should be okay. You can leave them if you want to keep it simple. As far as the puller, you just need a slide hammer with an attachment that will grab behind the bearing.
like the guy with the Z71 said, remove the cross-shaft and c-clips with a magnet, (sometimes the C-Clips will just fall out when you push the axles in if you kick hard) and they slide right out, 20 min job. however if you with to change the bearings, THATS what you need a puller for.
Trending Topics
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
From: AUSTIN TX
check the differential carefully... As you know, I broke an axle this week end as well. My axles will be here today, but last night while I was cleaning and removing the differntial to get ready to put everything back together I discovered the differential on the side the axle broke was split. This was a small crack which went from the carrier bearing flange all the way to one of the windows (holes in the carrier). Coincedentaly, I will no longer be needing those axles, as I refuse to spend $850.00 repairing this damn thing. That would be about $1200.00 to have a built 10 bolt with aftermarket gears. Time to start shopping. I am torn between a Strange 12 bolt and a Billingsley 9". Good Luck.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by BOWTIE
check the differential carefully... As you know, I broke an axle this week end as well. My axles will be here today, but last night while I was cleaning and removing the differntial to get ready to put everything back together I discovered the differential on the side the axle broke was split. This was a small crack which went from the carrier bearing flange all the way to one of the windows (holes in the carrier). Coincedentaly, I will no longer be needing those axles, as I refuse to spend $850.00 repairing this damn thing. That would be about $1200.00 to have a built 10 bolt with aftermarket gears. Time to start shopping. I am torn between a Strange 12 bolt and a Billingsley 9". Good Luck.
Thanks for making the post mark! Well, its 4:19pm on Friday its time to start the dismantling if you have done this before I ask that u check this post as much as possible because im sure I will have? THANKS ALL 
Scott
Scott
OK any one have pictures of what the c clips look like, i have a Hayes (sp?) manual and i look at the picture and my casing (gears, posi, ext.) looks similar but yet different. NEED PICS PLEASE HELP 
Scott
Scott
Here's a pic of the c-clip from an 8.5 rear end, looks similar though. Matter of fact use that website as a nice guide for your project. Very informative.
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/fscu/axletech/
http://www.fullsizechevy.com/fscu/axletech/
Last edited by HavATampa; Dec 11, 2004 at 06:11 PM.
