9 inch install
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From: Milwaukee, WI
9 inch install What is needed to install a 9 inch on a 2000 Z A4. I want to replace the driveshaft and torque arm at the time of install as well. Do I need a different lenth driveshaft?
i just installed a moser 9" into my car last weekend, and i used the stock ds, fits just fine. no vibrations or anything. get ready to get dirty tho, its a good bit of fun to install that SOB 
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by HAMRHEAD
What is needed to install a 9 inch on a 2000 Z A4. I want to replace the driveshaft and torque arm at the time of install as well. Do I need a different lenth driveshaft?
You'll need either your stock rear's brake backing plates, or you'll need to order some new ones.
here's a writeup i did in a recent thread.
you will need to do as southfl said with the backing plates. does your car have TCS? is it your only means of transportation? which 9" are you planning on going with (or already have)
the BEST thing to do with the driveshaft situation, is get the rear mounted, put your stocker in there and see how it fits. then make the determination based on that as to how long your new one needs to be. the stocker should fit fine.
you should do a little research on tq arms that fit with the 9" you want before you order one. again the stocker should fit fine untill you can get one in.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
-you will need a good set of sockets/wrenches (ratchet wrenches help )
-some jackstands (2 for the car to rest on and 2 more for the rear end to rest on once you start unbolting it.
-a floor jack + friends will help to manuver the thing into place
-an air impact will help speed things along with the large bolts tremendously.
-a buddy or two to lift things about, and hold things in place
start by removing the tires/wheels/brakes/parking brake cables. support the brakes (hang 'em over the lower controll arms if you want, ziptie them to make sure. this also keeps them out of your hair) and make sure all the lines are free. there is a brake fluid distribution block thats bolted on by the top torque arm mount. unplug the single abs sensor from the top of housing (for no TCS) or the ones by the outside by the brakes (if you have TCS). make sure nothing will get snagged and/or ripped off when you begin to drop the rear end down.
remove driveshaft straps and remove. you can push it up in the tunnel and wire it to the parkingbrake cables if you dont want any tranny fluid to run out (not much will if you dont care)
remove panhard rod
remove the tq arm bolts and shove toward driverside to free from rear end.
put jack under pumpkin and remove the nuts from the shocks and knock the shocks out of the rear end.
remove the LCA bolts from the rear end while someone steadies it on the jack (person on each side helps)
lower it slowly and grab the springs when they fall out.
when re-installing, i set up jackstands where i think the rear end will need to go (just guess). carry the new one over and place it on the stands. you can slide 'em around wherever you need to get the LCA's re-attatched.
-some jackstands (2 for the car to rest on and 2 more for the rear end to rest on once you start unbolting it.
-a floor jack + friends will help to manuver the thing into place
-an air impact will help speed things along with the large bolts tremendously.
-a buddy or two to lift things about, and hold things in place
start by removing the tires/wheels/brakes/parking brake cables. support the brakes (hang 'em over the lower controll arms if you want, ziptie them to make sure. this also keeps them out of your hair) and make sure all the lines are free. there is a brake fluid distribution block thats bolted on by the top torque arm mount. unplug the single abs sensor from the top of housing (for no TCS) or the ones by the outside by the brakes (if you have TCS). make sure nothing will get snagged and/or ripped off when you begin to drop the rear end down.
remove driveshaft straps and remove. you can push it up in the tunnel and wire it to the parkingbrake cables if you dont want any tranny fluid to run out (not much will if you dont care)
remove panhard rod
remove the tq arm bolts and shove toward driverside to free from rear end.
put jack under pumpkin and remove the nuts from the shocks and knock the shocks out of the rear end.
remove the LCA bolts from the rear end while someone steadies it on the jack (person on each side helps)
lower it slowly and grab the springs when they fall out.
when re-installing, i set up jackstands where i think the rear end will need to go (just guess). carry the new one over and place it on the stands. you can slide 'em around wherever you need to get the LCA's re-attatched.
the BEST thing to do with the driveshaft situation, is get the rear mounted, put your stocker in there and see how it fits. then make the determination based on that as to how long your new one needs to be. the stocker should fit fine.
you should do a little research on tq arms that fit with the 9" you want before you order one. again the stocker should fit fine untill you can get one in.
Originally Posted by SouthFL.02.SS
Make sure you get an adjustable tq arm to set your pinion angle correctly.
You'll need either your stock rear's brake backing plates, or you'll need to order some new ones.
You'll need either your stock rear's brake backing plates, or you'll need to order some new ones.
You will aslo need a 1350 u-joint for the rear, and bigger clamps for the sway bar. And most likely a pry bar or hammer to 'mold' the body where the torque arm mount is. Plan on it hitting the body under the rear pass seat. The top bolt hits if I recall. I run an adj SLP tq arm. And you may need to space your shocks out 1/2". At least the body of my HALs hit the mounting flange on the Moser.
I run my stock alum ds & get a slight vibration at times. I put my buddies carbon fiber ds in & it went away. Needs to be balanced I'd guess. Drop your LCAs to the bottom hole & set your pinion angle to -2 or 3*. Now just HANG ON!
I run my stock alum ds & get a slight vibration at times. I put my buddies carbon fiber ds in & it went away. Needs to be balanced I'd guess. Drop your LCAs to the bottom hole & set your pinion angle to -2 or 3*. Now just HANG ON!
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by WAHUSKER
You will aslo need a 1350 u-joint for the rear, and bigger clamps for the sway bar. And most likely a pry bar or hammer to 'mold' the body where the torque arm mount is. Plan on it hitting the body under the rear pass seat. The top bolt hits if I recall. I run an adj SLP tq arm. And you may need to space your shocks out 1/2". At least the body of my HALs hit the mounting flange on the Moser.
I run my stock alum ds & get a slight vibration at times. I put my buddies carbon fiber ds in & it went away. Needs to be balanced I'd guess. Drop your LCAs to the bottom hole & set your pinion angle to -2 or 3*. Now just HANG ON!
I run my stock alum ds & get a slight vibration at times. I put my buddies carbon fiber ds in & it went away. Needs to be balanced I'd guess. Drop your LCAs to the bottom hole & set your pinion angle to -2 or 3*. Now just HANG ON!
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Also if you are ordering it new, get it with the longer axle studs installed & save yourself a couple hundred bucks & a few days of hassle down the road. The ARP 7708 studs pass NHRA spec & short enough to still put the factory plastic lug nut covers on.
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I have a 10 bolt now, want to get a 9". I have a 4 channel setup
can I order the 9" w/o the exciter rings or brake backing plates to save money if I have the parts from my 10 bolt. what would I have to do to swap these items? is it do you think its worth it or would it be better to have them allready assembled.
how much would this cost to take my stock axle to someplace and get the reluctor rings removed and put on my new axle and I guess the bearings on the backing plates too?
Basically, if you want to resuse the stock TCS rings and backing plates, what is the procedure for swapping them?
I am a little confused on how the 9" setup is, are the axles tightly fitted into the bearings with the backing plate sandwiched between them? there are no c clips on a 9" right?
if someone could post a link with some detailed info on how a 9" is put together I could probably figure it out
can I order the 9" w/o the exciter rings or brake backing plates to save money if I have the parts from my 10 bolt. what would I have to do to swap these items? is it do you think its worth it or would it be better to have them allready assembled.
how much would this cost to take my stock axle to someplace and get the reluctor rings removed and put on my new axle and I guess the bearings on the backing plates too?
Basically, if you want to resuse the stock TCS rings and backing plates, what is the procedure for swapping them?
I am a little confused on how the 9" setup is, are the axles tightly fitted into the bearings with the backing plate sandwiched between them? there are no c clips on a 9" right?
if someone could post a link with some detailed info on how a 9" is put together I could probably figure it out
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 855
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From: AUSTIN TX
I was told the stock reluctor rings will not fit the Moser axles (not sure about Strange axles or if they even offer a bolt in set for a 9"). The brake backing plates slip onto the axle next to the flange and then the bearings are pressed on, then when the backing plates are bolted up they also act as the axle retaining plate.