I finally decided to do the drill out mod to my clutch master.I was planning to pull the rocker arm covers and re-check the torque on my rockers after the heads & cam install got some miles on it anyway.

I discovered that removing the 5 bolts that hold the driver side coils packs.. then removing the coil packs(which I had to for the rockers)gives ya
perfect & visible access to the clutch master!

The rockers checked out OK. (I forgot how much ticking noise the comp springs and valves w/ a cam make <img src="images/icons/mad.gif" border="0">

Got under the dash and removed the nuts & clips...then under the hood I just pulled the U bolt and the master slid right out. Shoving the reservoir behind the brake booster & wiring harness was tricky. I then uncoupled the line to the slave.

Here is my creative part. Back a few months I did a Z06 clutch & master in a 99 SS... A friend brought his handy Mighty Vac hand pump. I liked it so well I bought my own (plastic version). I took the old 99 SS slave and snapped in my braided line from the master which I had drilled out to it.

I then took the old bleeder out the slave and permatexed in a rubber tip from the mighty vac.

So I would fill the old 99SS slave with clutch fluid thru the rubber tip ...then use compressed air gun to the rubber tip and blow out/purge the line of the drill filings via the old 99SS slave. I did this 3 times. Then I reconnected the other end of the braided line back on to the master and put the reservoir in the vice. I then
bench bleed the system buy connecting the hand pump on the rubber tip and creating a vacuum. Once no more bubbles were in the clear pump lines I knew it was bled. While this setup still had a vacuum on it I quickly uncoupled braided line from the 99SS Slave setup.

When I had my car's engine replaced at the dealership the tech told me that the slave and master system didn't need to be bleed if it is just uncoupled and the pedal is not touched... Knowing this I simply snapped the now pre-bled
Master system to the slave in the tranny and slid the master into place...right above the steering shaft by using the access created from removing the coil packs! (Get this on the first try!!!) I then reconnected the rest.

Fired it up and took it for a spin. Much faster engagement (almost neck snapping) and my engagement point is in the middle (as stock) vs. close to the floor after the Star clutch install. But the wildest thing is good news/bad news...

Good News)I used to semi-granny shift 2-3 as the factory setup was very stiff @ high rpms... Now it just slides into 3rd @ 6600 rpm! .. The bad news is that the car gets sideways very hard on the 2-3! Twice I was pointed toward the ditch after the 2-3 powershift. I guess I will have to "learn" this new setup.

I would highly recommend this mod to anyone that has a stiff 2-3 high rpm shift.

Here is a pic of some of the tools and the old slave setup I made!

http://www.mindspring.com/~trehr/MVC-873F.JPG

Todd Rehr XLRATE

'99 30th Anniversary TA WS6 (#1118)- M6: MTI lid, FRA, TB bypass, Ported and
polished TB, Cooling Fan Switch,MAF ends, Power Cutout, K&N, 4:10s,MOBIL 1,
Nitto DRs, Pro5.0 w/ blue MBA billet **** & Firebat 30th decals, SLP
underive Pulley, MORE stage 2 CNC heads (2.08/1.60) & Cam (comp 216/220 -
525/532) & top end package, Boxed LCAs, LS6 intake, Fernco Mod, Mac Headers
and custom Y pipe (C&L high flow cats and FM collector), Ed Wright
programming, Star Stage 2 clutch.

[ November 20, 2001: Message edited by: TRehr ]</p>

 

Nice job! <img src="images/icons/grin.gif" border="0"> Thanks for the tip, hopefully I'll get mine done the first time around!

 

where did you get the handvac at? I am gonna do the drill out mod soon too. How long did it take you to do this start to finish. My motor is out of the car, so it should be easier for me. Thanks

 

The pump & kit was $25 at autozone.

Might Vac!

Great buy