Terry Burger

iTrader: (4)

Better call madman again. <img src="images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">

JimmyKash

[quote]Originally posted by JS:
<strong>Yes in Chromolly u save 25lbs but I would NOT run a chromolly Kmember on the street

JS</strong><hr></blockquote>

depends who you go with really....Jason saves the weight with C/M by going with thinner walls but same diameter tubing as steel so it makes it even stronger for street driving.

he's assured me he has numerous stang guys running around with C/M stuff on the street and as long as you're not stupid like running into huge pot holes all the time, you'll be fine

JS

iTrader: (4)

CM is brittle,Once its hit hard a few times it becomes weaker from what I've been told

CM and the track r one thing
But potholes,bumps r comming place on the street and u dont always miss them....

Last thing I want is a seperating or cracked tube on my K-member at 125MPH. <img src="images/icons/shocked.gif" border="0">

Terry I talked to him..
Bolton <img src="images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0">

JS

red ws6 99

The only reason the welds would become brittle is if the weld areas were not annealed after welding. This is a good practice with any materials be it mild steel, stainless, etc. But its a must for chromoly.

Gary

[ December 01, 2001: Message edited by: red ws6 99 ]</p>

PaiN

[quote]Originally posted by JS:
<strong>
Terry I talked to him..
Bolton <img src="images/icons/tongue.gif" border="0">

JS</strong><hr></blockquote>

I talked with Madman Friday as well.

I specifically asked about being bolt-in, and had em ask Brian(sp) to make sure.

No cutting or drilling.... but they told me welding IS needed.

sells for just under $600 if memory serves me correctly.

[ December 02, 2001: Message edited by: PaiN ]</p>

jimmyz80

iTrader: (1)

I have the mild steel PA Racing K-Frame and A-Arms. There are a few things to beware of. I have ZR-1 9.5" wide wheels in the front and they rub like mad on the a-arms which is definitely not a good thing. Talked to PA and they have an updated version that accomodates the wide wheels. I'm assuming most of you must have received that version instead.

I also had to put small stainless washers between my shocks and the a-arms. Without them the A-arm didn't have clearance for the bottom of the shock and everything would bind up and not move at all once tq'd down.

A few days ago I removed the a-arms and reinstalled the stockers again. I'm actually very pleased with the combo of stock a-arms and PA k-frame. It's a very streetable combo with no extra road noise and is much lighter.

The a-arms are DEFINITELY not for a street car.

RUQWIKR

iTrader: (11)

[quote]Originally posted by Raughammer:
<strong>I know of the extra clearance gained.

But i am still curious of the ACTUAL weight savings. Has any "user" verified this amount? <img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>

For my PA Racing chromemoly k-member (for stock p/s rack, clearanced for long tubes, though I don't have them) and their chromemoly a-arms...the weights vs. stock were as follows:

17.5 vs. 48 for the bare k-member

7x2 vs. 14x2 for the a-arms

So, you save 30.5# for the k-member and 14# for the a-arms. They fit great and only "tweaking" was a tiny bit of grinding on the RH bushing on the p/s rack.

Obviously, the k-member is the biggest bang for the buck as the a-arms are about the same price.

Importdestroyer

iTrader: (1)

Im getting the PA mild steel k member and a arm combo in a few days. I also have ZR1 9.5 rims on front and wanted to know why exactly the a arms arent streetable. Also how do you take off the front bumper support?

HP
98 Vortech TA

Colonel

Thanks for those weights. I'll update the Weight Reduction Thread. <img src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">

AREGHOSTZEE

Our k-frame is sold as a complete unit and has a savings (complete unit to complete unit)of 40lbs for the street/ roadrace version and 43lbs for the dragrace version. If you weight the parts one piece at a time and forget some of the mounting hardware it may seem to be a bit lighter than it realy is.

We have a few moly units on the street that have about 20,000 miles and are perfect, Madman uses our unit and seems to be happy with the results/ fit/quality.

I don't know about the advertising lighter than they are remark, this was fixed about a year ago when we first started selling them. The Lt1 unit is about a 48-50lb savings and didn't expect the Ls1 factory piecs to be lighter than the Lt1 one and said that they had the same weight savings(honest mistake) I refunded the customer 100%(including shipping to and from) and thats it!

We are very happy with our unit and can make custom changes to them depending on application to suite the customers needs.

[ December 19, 2001: Message edited by: AREGHOSTZEE ]</p>

jimmyz80

iTrader: (1)

[quote]Originally posted by Importdestroyer:
<strong>Im getting the PA mild steel k member and a arm combo in a few days. I also have ZR1 9.5 rims on front and wanted to know why exactly the a arms arent streetable. Also how do you take off the front bumper support?

HP
98 Vortech TA</strong><hr></blockquote>

Did they ship you the narrow version of the A-Arms? If not, they will rub on your wheels which messes up the finish on your wheel's inner lip and also grinds a nice notch in the a-arms.

The reason I don't consider them streetable for my use at least is:

-Very Noisy, makes road reflectors sound like the world is coming to an end.

-Even though I am sure they are strong, I don't like the idea of all those welds right in areas that have a lot of force trying to make them flex. The last thing I want is a busted weld around a turn at 100mph.

-Those solid rod-end bushings will wear out very quickly in comparison to poly/rubber connection points.

I still think they are awesome pieces for drag racing, I also can't say anything about the ARE setup, I've never seen/used it. I'm sure ARE thought it out very thoroughly though.

What do you mean by the bumper support? Never had to deal with anything like that to install mine.

BADZ

iTrader: (5)

Done some research myself and bought the steel A-arms and steel K-member for the reason that again the molly is brittle and the steel will flex when it takes a hit so im in for the steel. From what I know is that the weight of both (MOLLY VS STEEL) are the same + or - 1-3 lbs..

Paid 670.00 shipped for both A-arms and the K-member..FYI. <img src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

[ December 20, 2001: Message edited by: BADZ ]</p>

Raughammer

So if we got mole K member.
Steel A frames.
and the madman steering rack... how much weight is that?

How much moola?

Who can align the car with all this aftermarket stuff on the front end?

500~600 sounds WAY to expensive for that manual rack.

How is it different than removing the stock pump and resivoir and tieing the hoses to gether?

Terry...JS... you guys are funny! <img src="graemlins/gr_jest.gif" border="0" alt="[jester]" />

<img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />
The pepper