adjustable master cylinder...made mine
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,903
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, OH
adjustable master cylinder...made mine Guys need to do this themselves as its pretty darn easy. I think Harlan poseted some instructions once and thats what I used. Cut the internal stop at the bottom of the spring in the master cylinder from 1" down to 3/8".....seperate the rod with the loop on it from the rod that comes out of the master cylinder. I used a little grinder wheel. The I bought a tap and die from sears for like 4 bux and threaded the rod coming out of the master cylinder. Bought a "coupler nut" from the hardware store for 37 cents...had it welded onto the end of the rod with the loop. Welder did it for free cause it literally took 30 seconds. I think the thread size was "1/4 20 nt"
This is very vague but if you start to do yours you would figure it out as it "aint rocket science"
This is very vague but if you start to do yours you would figure it out as it "aint rocket science"
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
From: Williamsburg, VA
Re: adjustable master cylinder...made mine I made my own as well.
--Took a 4" long 5/16NF grade 5 bolt and threaded it further down the shaft another inch or so.
--Rounded the hex bolt to match the dished out part of the M/C piston.
--Polished the rounded end and the shaft.
--Cutoff the old bent rod from the outer shaft.
--Drilled the outer shaft 1 inch deeper.
--Tapped the inside of the outer shaft with 5/16NF.
--Beefed up the original outer shaft with a 3"piece of 1/2" OD brass nipple, epoxied in place.
--Measured the OAL of the stock linkage and cut the new rod to fit.
--Installed the new beefed up push rod into the M/C.
--Threaded and epoxied a nut to the new push rod at the bottom of the threads.
--Threaded a lock nut onto the new rod.
--Threaded the new rod into the modified original outer shaft.
--Took a 4" long 5/16NF grade 5 bolt and threaded it further down the shaft another inch or so.
--Rounded the hex bolt to match the dished out part of the M/C piston.
--Polished the rounded end and the shaft.
--Cutoff the old bent rod from the outer shaft.
--Drilled the outer shaft 1 inch deeper.
--Tapped the inside of the outer shaft with 5/16NF.
--Beefed up the original outer shaft with a 3"piece of 1/2" OD brass nipple, epoxied in place.
--Measured the OAL of the stock linkage and cut the new rod to fit.
--Installed the new beefed up push rod into the M/C.
--Threaded and epoxied a nut to the new push rod at the bottom of the threads.
--Threaded a lock nut onto the new rod.
--Threaded the new rod into the modified original outer shaft.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 350
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, SC
Re: adjustable master cylinder...made mine Wish I knew what the inside of one of these things looks like so I could follow along with these instructions. Any of you guys takes pics? This doesn't sound too hard and it would save me $200.
Re: adjustable master cylinder...made mine $200? Wasn't Cartek modifying the stock ones for $100 with exchange? That seems pretty reasonable since you won't have to waste any time on it chasing down parts and a welder, or assembling it.
Tony
Tony
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Central Calif.
Re: adjustable master cylinder...made mine Couple of things to note if you do this mod yourself:
1. Do not use any force or pressure on the rubber/silicone seals when reassembling the piston MC.
2. When you make the arm adjustable make sure you are able to go 1/2 in either direction from the original stock length, not just adding 1" of threads to it.
Good luck.
If you happen to break the seal when putting it back together you have two choices. Do it yourself junk yard for the seal or to buy a whole new unit from the dealer or the adjustable one from aftermarket supplier.
I learned the hard way that most that upgrade to the adjustable MC trash the old one! I have emailed prob 20 people looking for the piece I broke and most have said it's in the trash! Really sucks to have to spend the $ for a mod gone wrong. Now my car is still down and the promised parts supposed to be here today are not. Who knows when it will get here if they ever even do. <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
1. Do not use any force or pressure on the rubber/silicone seals when reassembling the piston MC.
2. When you make the arm adjustable make sure you are able to go 1/2 in either direction from the original stock length, not just adding 1" of threads to it.
Good luck.
If you happen to break the seal when putting it back together you have two choices. Do it yourself junk yard for the seal or to buy a whole new unit from the dealer or the adjustable one from aftermarket supplier.
I learned the hard way that most that upgrade to the adjustable MC trash the old one! I have emailed prob 20 people looking for the piece I broke and most have said it's in the trash! Really sucks to have to spend the $ for a mod gone wrong. Now my car is still down and the promised parts supposed to be here today are not. Who knows when it will get here if they ever even do. <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0"> <img src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" border="0">
