380rwhp & upgrade 10 bolt..is it enough?
06-28-2005, 11:05 AM
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380rwhp & upgrade 10 bolt..is it enough? Hi,
I'm new to the world of M6's. The car used to be an auto and had numerous low 12s passes on it with 1.7X 60fts...no issues ever out of the stock rear or after I went to motive 3.73s.
however, the 1st time out with the M6 I wounded the 10 bolt, the gears whine big time now. part of the problem is the McLeod Street Twin is basically impossible to slip off the line...particularly with my poor stick shift skills.
Here's the dilema: 1st child is due in 2.5 mos. I DO NOT have $2500 for a 12 bolt or even $1500 to piece together my own 9 inch. I may not have this kind of money for 2 years or longer as things are going to be TIGHT after the baby.
The good news is the car is paid for and is staying. Its not a daily driver anymore. The car put down 360rwhp through the A4, I'm figuring 375-380 now with the M6 max. The rear has Motive 3.73s, A Torsen take off diff from SLP (not the T2R), cap studs, solid pinion spacer, and a TA rear girdle.
If I upgrade to Moser axles, have the tubes welded to the case, and have the gears set back up professionally (they are whining really bad now), will it hold on Nittos and, say, 3000rpm launches? I know 4K is going to cause a failure...And I realize until I can launch the hell out of the car I'm never going to be as fast as I was with the A4, but if the 10 bolt isn't going to hold period then I guess I'm done racing for good for 2-3 years.
I'm new to the world of M6's. The car used to be an auto and had numerous low 12s passes on it with 1.7X 60fts...no issues ever out of the stock rear or after I went to motive 3.73s.
however, the 1st time out with the M6 I wounded the 10 bolt, the gears whine big time now. part of the problem is the McLeod Street Twin is basically impossible to slip off the line...particularly with my poor stick shift skills.
Here's the dilema: 1st child is due in 2.5 mos. I DO NOT have $2500 for a 12 bolt or even $1500 to piece together my own 9 inch. I may not have this kind of money for 2 years or longer as things are going to be TIGHT after the baby.
The good news is the car is paid for and is staying. Its not a daily driver anymore. The car put down 360rwhp through the A4, I'm figuring 375-380 now with the M6 max. The rear has Motive 3.73s, A Torsen take off diff from SLP (not the T2R), cap studs, solid pinion spacer, and a TA rear girdle.
If I upgrade to Moser axles, have the tubes welded to the case, and have the gears set back up professionally (they are whining really bad now), will it hold on Nittos and, say, 3000rpm launches? I know 4K is going to cause a failure...And I realize until I can launch the hell out of the car I'm never going to be as fast as I was with the A4, but if the 10 bolt isn't going to hold period then I guess I'm done racing for good for 2-3 years.
Last edited by Chris 96 WS6; 06-28-2005 at 12:29 PM.
06-28-2005, 11:37 AM
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Get a line lock. Load the rear before you launch. That will add some life to it. Also add some LCA brackets. I am running 4.10s with a build 10 bolt. I am running the T2 though. She is holding fine. I do have wine, but no problems. I beat the hell out of it on the street and did some practice launches. It is much smoother and easier on the car with the Line Lock.
06-28-2005, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Hawkcmc
The 10 bolt is a bomb, you could get lucky but it is un likely. As soon as you have the cash upgrade to something else.
CMC
CMC
06-29-2005, 01:41 AM
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It probably won't survive many of those 3K rpm clutch dumps you plan on putting it though. That's how my 10-bolt got trashed. I'm talking on a tire that sticks, if you run street tires (not Nittos or BFG's) then it will probably last you a lot longer.
A line lock will help while doing a burn out, but I don't see how it would help while you're launching??
A line lock will help while doing a burn out, but I don't see how it would help while you're launching??
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06-29-2005, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Krab
It probably won't survive many of those 3K rpm clutch dumps you plan on putting it though. That's how my 10-bolt got trashed. I'm talking on a tire that sticks, if you run street tires (not Nittos or BFG's) then it will probably last you a lot longer.
A line lock will help while doing a burn out, but I don't see how it would help while you're launching??
A line lock will help while doing a burn out, but I don't see how it would help while you're launching??
It takes the slack out of the drivetrain. I don't have a linelock but what I do is when I get up to the staged light I pull the e brake and let out on the clutch until the car trys to roll forward some...then release the e-brake and get ready to go! Although I still blew mine up but I was trying to dump the clutch at 5000rpms
Chris, go out and have a good time, but I would try to leave very easy...and don't do a big burnout...every time I've broken something it's been because of a big 2nd gear burnout that got the tires STICKY! lol.