Yet another hyd master question
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo, MI
Yet another hyd master question Well after 3500 miles on my Star stage 2 my master started to head south. I actually had my friendly local dealer R&R the master & slave to the '01 unit under warranty.
The warranty work was a disaster! The car was barely driveable when I got it back and the tech had run out of ideas. I even had him pull the tranny & bell housing and recheck the pressureplate bolts for 52 ft/lbs.
The clutch was like a switch on/off all within a inch of the floor (at low rpms)....& at high rpms (above 3K) it would not disengage with out forcing the shift out of gear.
I decided that a upgrade to a McLeod master was in order (after numerous bleeding sessions). I just finished the install. I bench bled the resivior, master and line using an old slave fitted with a mighty vac where the bleeder screw was.
The McLeod piece is quite stout compared to the OEM. Install went fine after adjusting the pedal to a normal range the car will now shift fine all the way up to 6500. However, the pedal lags on release and on the power shift the pedal stays slightly down and then bang it flys up hitting the bottom of my foot.
Is this a sign of air in the system or is ther something else going on? It's an improvemnet and now it driveable but if just feels really wierd.
Any replys would be greatly appreciated.
Todd Rehr XLRATE
405.8 rwhp / 384.6 rwtq
'99 30th Anniversary TA WS6 (#1118)- M6: MTI lid, K&N, FRA, Fernco Coupler, TB bypass, Ported and polished TB, LS6 Intake, Cooling Fan Switch, Mac Headers and custom Y pipe (C&L high flow cats and FM collector), McCord 2nd Gen Power Cutout, SLP underive Pulley, MORE stage 2 CNC heads (2.08/1.60) & Comp Cam (216/220 - 525/532) & top end kit, Ed Wright programming, MAFT, KnockOut Box, Line-Loc, Harlan Shift Light, Pro5.0, Star Stage 2 clutch, 4:10s, Boxed LCAs, Nitto DRs(on 17" 30th rims).
http://www.mindspring.com/~trehr/Rehr30th.jpg
http://www.mindspring.com/~trehr/Dyno/cutoutopen.jpg
The warranty work was a disaster! The car was barely driveable when I got it back and the tech had run out of ideas. I even had him pull the tranny & bell housing and recheck the pressureplate bolts for 52 ft/lbs.
The clutch was like a switch on/off all within a inch of the floor (at low rpms)....& at high rpms (above 3K) it would not disengage with out forcing the shift out of gear.
I decided that a upgrade to a McLeod master was in order (after numerous bleeding sessions). I just finished the install. I bench bled the resivior, master and line using an old slave fitted with a mighty vac where the bleeder screw was.
The McLeod piece is quite stout compared to the OEM. Install went fine after adjusting the pedal to a normal range the car will now shift fine all the way up to 6500. However, the pedal lags on release and on the power shift the pedal stays slightly down and then bang it flys up hitting the bottom of my foot.
Is this a sign of air in the system or is ther something else going on? It's an improvemnet and now it driveable but if just feels really wierd.
Any replys would be greatly appreciated.
Todd Rehr XLRATE
405.8 rwhp / 384.6 rwtq
'99 30th Anniversary TA WS6 (#1118)- M6: MTI lid, K&N, FRA, Fernco Coupler, TB bypass, Ported and polished TB, LS6 Intake, Cooling Fan Switch, Mac Headers and custom Y pipe (C&L high flow cats and FM collector), McCord 2nd Gen Power Cutout, SLP underive Pulley, MORE stage 2 CNC heads (2.08/1.60) & Comp Cam (216/220 - 525/532) & top end kit, Ed Wright programming, MAFT, KnockOut Box, Line-Loc, Harlan Shift Light, Pro5.0, Star Stage 2 clutch, 4:10s, Boxed LCAs, Nitto DRs(on 17" 30th rims).
http://www.mindspring.com/~trehr/Rehr30th.jpg
http://www.mindspring.com/~trehr/Dyno/cutoutopen.jpg
I can shift faster than you.
iTrader: (21)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,133
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Re: Yet another hyd master question Todd, this has been a common problem on many of the Mcleod m/c installs I have done. Try adjusting the m/c out some more. This fixed the problem on all the cars that had this same problem.
The way you bled your hydraulics is the way I do mine as well. You get 99% of the air out that way. This way works SO much better than just bleeding at the slave once everything is installed.
The way you bled your hydraulics is the way I do mine as well. You get 99% of the air out that way. This way works SO much better than just bleeding at the slave once everything is installed.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Kalamazoo, MI
Re: Yet another hyd master question Jason
Thanks for the reply. I did have the clutch adjusted way forward after install ( It felt like I was dumping it on the last inch of pedal before I lift my foot) ..but currently the clutch pedal is about 1/2" higher than the brake.
Would that damn spring under the dash be causiing some of the weird pedal feeling .. almost like it hits the point where it flips over.
But then again why only on hard acceleration does the pedeal feel like it returns in two steps vs . smooth continuous release?
Would air in the system cause this?
Thanx
Todd
Thanks for the reply. I did have the clutch adjusted way forward after install ( It felt like I was dumping it on the last inch of pedal before I lift my foot) ..but currently the clutch pedal is about 1/2" higher than the brake.
Would that damn spring under the dash be causiing some of the weird pedal feeling .. almost like it hits the point where it flips over.
But then again why only on hard acceleration does the pedeal feel like it returns in two steps vs . smooth continuous release?
Would air in the system cause this?
Thanx
Todd
