7.5...how far did you push it before it broke?
11-02-2005, 11:38 PM
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7.5...how far did you push it before it broke? I was wondering whats the limits for the 7.5 rear end on these cars? Is it even worth it to buy a set of slicks or even a gear ratio above 3.73 and just wait till you break it? I understand things like slicks can break any rear on any car if launched hard enough but idk, i hear these gm rears really are glass jaws. Whats the farthest you took it and broke it or better yet whos got some crazy mods runnin 11s on the stock rear with some gears in it? thanks
11-03-2005, 02:31 AM
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I broke my spider gears on my burnout when it hooked. Ran my best run after that burnout then heard/felt the broken spiders after I was turning off the track. Only a lid, cat back & 4.10's. So high 12's for me. If you try you could do it on a stock car.
Jason
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11-03-2005, 03:09 AM
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It has been said hundreds of times , if you have an automatic you can get by with a 12 bolt, if you have a stick 9" with a spool or Detroit locker is your only salvation. The 9" is the only rear that will repeatedly take the shock loads from 4-5000 rpm dumps. You throwing money away to try and beef up the 10 bolt tinker toy.
11-04-2005, 11:54 AM
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Mine held up for the last 2 years with cam, 150shot and nittos and toward the end a couple of 2-stage 250 shots. It blew last week down the track cause i just installed line lock so i was able to get them nittos nice and hot and she blew right of the line with a 3k launch.
11-05-2005, 04:49 PM
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mine blew completly stock at the drag strip. hooked and broke. that started the modding. with an auto the stock rear end can take more abuse than a manual.
11-06-2005, 12:31 AM
#7
Yea an auto rear can take more. I'm running 11's with the stock rear and Richmond gears. I'd really like to get a 9" but until then I got the stock 10 bolt. One of my old Chevy High Performance magazines tested a built 7.5 rear and they said it could hold up to 400rwhp but it was a built rear too but everyone's rear will hold different amounts of power. Some blow up the first time you take it to the track and others have been running them to death for years with no problems so it's really hard to say. If you are going with a powerful setup then I'd just suggest a 12 bolt or 9", whichever you prefer, but I think they would hold the power much better.
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11-06-2005, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 1bad70+94camaro
i am also curious.can you make these things stronger?does moser make axles for these?
Some people are lucky but if you keep adding power, eventually its going to go.
11-06-2005, 03:28 PM
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My friend has the stock 10 bolt with 3.42 gears behind a 6 speed, SPEC Stage 3 clutch, 393" LS6 stroker with a 242/246 cam, 6L heads, with a 100 shot and ran 6.97 in the 1/8th and didn't break it.
My other friend broke his when it was stock on the street with street tires doing a burnout.
My other friend broke his when it was stock on the street with street tires doing a burnout.
11-08-2005, 03:46 PM
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In an auto they will take a beating. I got cocky and messed up my Torsen on a 6k dump. This was after a few 1.6X 60's and bottom 12s in an M6. I still drove it two hours home. I built mine though. Never did replace the stock Torsen, which ended up beeing the weak link. I will be selling my rear for a 9" now as I plan to go bigger on power and launch it harder. Oh this was on a 4.10 gear two.
11-08-2005, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
Dont even waste the money on the stock 10 bolt. Get a 12 or a 9" and be done with it. A few of my friends have had their 10 bolts rebuilt enough times that could have already bought a 12bolt/9".
Some people are lucky but if you keep adding power, eventually its going to go.
Some people are lucky but if you keep adding power, eventually its going to go.
11-08-2005, 11:53 PM
#15
The main reason why a rear end has to be extra tough in a manual is, as everyone is kinda hinting at, the extra shock loads not only off the line but everyday driving as well. How many times while driving a manual do you let out of the clutch a bit quick while shifting from first to second? Some do it alot some don't those that do break stuff alot more. In an automatic the tranny absorbs and deals with most of the shock that is delievered in the drivetrain where in a manual the rear axle does.
11-09-2005, 09:10 AM
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Back when I ran bfg drag radials and was doing a lot of street racing I was leaving at 4k-ish w/ a quick slip or "knee jerk" launch. This was with bone stock 10bolt w/ 3.42's. Since then I have added the "aussie" clutch, 4.10's, girdle and MT radials. Going to the strip this weekend with the new setup, I will report back with sixty foot times and launch technique.
Remember with the 10bolt and a manual transmission it's all about the shock to the drivetrain, minimize the initial shock and it might...live for a bit. Also wheel hop..no good.
Remember with the 10bolt and a manual transmission it's all about the shock to the drivetrain, minimize the initial shock and it might...live for a bit. Also wheel hop..no good.
12-18-2005, 02:10 PM
#17
I have run a slew of mid 11's over 124mph on mine and it has 4.10's. My 60' times are hight 1.7's to low 1.8's on Nitto DR's. I leave the line just above idle.....1200-1500rpm backing off the clutch real quick and just let the motor and gears do the work.
12-19-2005, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by trigger1
Back when I ran bfg drag radials and was doing a lot of street racing I was leaving at 4k-ish w/ a quick slip or "knee jerk" launch. This was with bone stock 10bolt w/ 3.42's. Since then I have added the "aussie" clutch, 4.10's, girdle and MT radials. Going to the strip this weekend with the new setup, I will report back with sixty foot times and launch technique.
Remember with the 10bolt and a manual transmission it's all about the shock to the drivetrain, minimize the initial shock and it might...live for a bit. Also wheel hop..no good.
Remember with the 10bolt and a manual transmission it's all about the shock to the drivetrain, minimize the initial shock and it might...live for a bit. Also wheel hop..no good.
12-19-2005, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by BADSZ28
In an auto they will take a beating. I got cocky and messed up my Torsen on a 6k dump. This was after a few 1.6X 60's and bottom 12s in an M6. I still drove it two hours home. I built mine though. Never did replace the stock Torsen, which ended up beeing the weak link. I will be selling my rear for a 9" now as I plan to go bigger on power and launch it harder. Oh this was on a 4.10 gear two.
The Torsen in Fine! I pulled it apart and to my surprize all is well! Even the gears! I have to pull the pinion and replace the seal and maybe a bearing but that is it. I am very happy. I can put off the 9" for a while now and sell my rear as a whole.
12-19-2005, 10:12 AM
#20
4000 rpm stall,many low 1.6 60ft's on motor(drag radials)
and a good hand full of low 1.5's on the bottle with no troubles.(E/T streets)
finally started hearing a noisy pinion bearing at 94k and swapped rear ends.
only went with a low mileage stock M6 take-out though. Slight upgrade to 3:42's over the 3:23 stock A4 gears and cheap too.
Dave
and a good hand full of low 1.5's on the bottle with no troubles.(E/T streets)
finally started hearing a noisy pinion bearing at 94k and swapped rear ends.
only went with a low mileage stock M6 take-out though. Slight upgrade to 3:42's over the 3:23 stock A4 gears and cheap too.
Dave