8.8 Ford rear going in Tuesday
11-18-2005, 06:28 AM
#41
Originally Posted by glennhl
Originally Posted by TRex
I
I would strongly advise you do the recommended heat treat. Welding nodular iron forms large precipetates of carbon in the area of the weld, severly weakening the iron. Heat treating removes these precipitates and relieves the stresses in the heat affected zone. Generally recommended to heat to 1000 to 1200 degrees for at least and hour, then let it cool slowly.
I would strongly advise you do the recommended heat treat. Welding nodular iron forms large precipetates of carbon in the area of the weld, severly weakening the iron. Heat treating removes these precipitates and relieves the stresses in the heat affected zone. Generally recommended to heat to 1000 to 1200 degrees for at least and hour, then let it cool slowly.
On mine, I did not heat treat with the alignment bar in the housing (1.5" steel bar through the center of axle bearings and pumpkin caps). After heat treat, it still slid through the alignment bushings (.002" clearance) with no problem. I checked axle camber with my camber gauge - accurate to within 1/8 degree - it measured 0 degrees dead nuts.
I would be even less worried if the steel bar was left in the housing during the process.
11-18-2005, 07:43 AM
#42
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This is the answer to all torque arm issues with the 8.8 rear. It is a chassis mounted torque arm designed for a Mustang. Assuming there is space enough to fit the crossbar on the chassis, and the right pinion angle can be acheived, this is the answer. Made to work with a TA (rear end cover brand)cover. I am picking one up as I want to upgrade my stock torque arm anyway and this seems like a way to kill 2 birds with one stone. Should have thought of this before.
I would recommend going this route to anyone who is building an 8.8 from scratch.
$300
I would recommend going this route to anyone who is building an 8.8 from scratch.
$300
11-18-2005, 09:54 AM
#43
Originally Posted by TRex
No doubt it is the way to go for high horsepower cars. However, for cars that don't need it, it is a lot of extra weight and efficiency loss in terms of hp at the wheels.
I could afford anything I wanted, I built an 8.8 purely for the efficiency and light weight. My car is never going to be a 10 sec car. 400 rwhp is as high as I intend to build it, and 12 bolt or 8.8 is fine for that power level. 8.8 is lighter and more efficient than a 12 bolt, so that's what I decided to go with.
FYI
I could afford anything I wanted, I built an 8.8 purely for the efficiency and light weight. My car is never going to be a 10 sec car. 400 rwhp is as high as I intend to build it, and 12 bolt or 8.8 is fine for that power level. 8.8 is lighter and more efficient than a 12 bolt, so that's what I decided to go with.
FYI
of course u prob work 80 hrs a week and thousands of lives depend on u being there but a guy can dream cant he.
11-18-2005, 10:25 AM
#44
Originally Posted by 347fairless
This is the answer to all torque arm issues with the 8.8 rear. It is a chassis mounted torque arm designed for a Mustang. Assuming there is space enough to fit the crossbar on the chassis, and the right pinion angle can be acheived, this is the answer. Made to work with a TA (rear end cover brand)cover. I am picking one up as I want to upgrade my stock torque arm anyway and this seems like a way to kill 2 birds with one stone. Should have thought of this before.
I would recommend going this route to anyone who is building an 8.8 from scratch.
$300
I would recommend going this route to anyone who is building an 8.8 from scratch.
$300
) 
12-10-2005, 08:58 AM
#53
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I've been following this along for many of the same reasons mentioned so I thought I would finally give my two cents...
To avoid welding the cast iron housing, why not fabricate a TA mount to the axle like the aftermarket unit shown and then either build a complete torque arm that uses the stock rubber mount, or better yet buy a Spohn chassis mount torque arm and rework the end that mounts to the axle so that it mounts like the aftermarket unit...? That way the whole issue of welding cast iron is avoided and it's just a matter of welding good old steel. Just a thought...
To avoid welding the cast iron housing, why not fabricate a TA mount to the axle like the aftermarket unit shown and then either build a complete torque arm that uses the stock rubber mount, or better yet buy a Spohn chassis mount torque arm and rework the end that mounts to the axle so that it mounts like the aftermarket unit...? That way the whole issue of welding cast iron is avoided and it's just a matter of welding good old steel. Just a thought...
12-10-2005, 05:42 PM
#54
Originally Posted by 3BZ28
I've been following this along for many of the same reasons mentioned so I thought I would finally give my two cents...
To avoid welding the cast iron housing, why not fabricate a TA mount to the axle like the aftermarket unit shown and then either build a complete torque arm that uses the stock rubber mount, or better yet buy a Spohn chassis mount torque arm and rework the end that mounts to the axle so that it mounts like the aftermarket unit...? That way the whole issue of welding cast iron is avoided and it's just a matter of welding good old steel. Just a thought...
To avoid welding the cast iron housing, why not fabricate a TA mount to the axle like the aftermarket unit shown and then either build a complete torque arm that uses the stock rubber mount, or better yet buy a Spohn chassis mount torque arm and rework the end that mounts to the axle so that it mounts like the aftermarket unit...? That way the whole issue of welding cast iron is avoided and it's just a matter of welding good old steel. Just a thought...
12-10-2005, 06:25 PM
#55
i believe an 8.8 can hold up, i have had one in my car going on almost a year, car has seen probably a couple hundred passes, runs consistent low 1.6's on motor and high 1.4, low 1.5's on nitrous, i just put heads on the car, and am in the process of putting a Rossler TH350 in it with a brake and a 4400 stall, i hope to be high 1.3 to low 1.4 60' times, and i feel it will hold up just fine, i have had no problems or issues at all.
12-10-2005, 06:38 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by URLOSN
i believe an 8.8 can hold up, i have had one in my car going on almost a year, car has seen probably a couple hundred passes, runs consistent low 1.6's on motor and high 1.4, low 1.5's on nitrous, i just put heads on the car, and am in the process of putting a Rossler TH350 in it with a brake and a 4400 stall, i hope to be high 1.3 to low 1.4 60' times, and i feel it will hold up just fine, i have had no problems or issues at all.
12-10-2005, 08:57 PM
#57
Got it from a member on here, and he doesn't really have time to build anymore right now, cause i have had several people ask me and then when they contacted him, he told them he didn't have the time right now, but he may down the road, he used a special rod, i think a 70 or 80 series if i am not mistaken to make sure it displaced all the carbon in hte welds, so the welds do not crack or break. i have a 3750# car with me in it and i am cutting those 60' times, so i think that says something for the strength of the unit. i wish he would build more. i actually only bought the housing from him and ordered everything else seperately, and assembled it myself. by the time i was done, i had about 2100-2200 including parts and shipping. 31 spline axles( with abs/tcs), detroit true trac( 3 planetary version) , rear end girdle, billet 1350 yoke, 3.73 gears. the housing itself was : center section out of an 89 fox, 10 bolt axle tubes, and it has the ford 9" big bearing ends. main reason i went with this was for less drivetrain loss, over the 12 bolt and the 9"
02-08-2007, 01:13 AM
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Sorry for digging this up from the dead, but just want to give an update. 14,000 miles later and 50 passes on Mickey Thompsons and the rear is alive and well. Will be putting mid 10 sec power to it this spring.
02-20-2007, 04:35 PM
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I posted in this thread earlier and have been following it a bit. I like the idea of the 8.8 because of it's light weight and relatively low parasitic loss as compared to the 12 bolt and 9". I think with the axle tubes being secured properly as they seem to be here and the elimination of the torque arm completely, this would be a good alternative. I am currently running a pseudo ladder bar set-up from G-Force Suspension that totally eliminates the torque arm. I'm not sure if they are a sponsor or not, but I do know there is an extensive post about them on this board (don't know how to post a link, sorry!). There is also another set-up called Pete-z bars or something like that, that accomplishes the same thing. I've had this set-up on for about a year daily driven (on New York roads) with around 25 or 30 low 12 second passes with 1.7 60's. I'd like to step it up a bit (maybe some spray), but I'm afraid of the stock 10 bolt. If I could get one of these relatively cheap minus the torque arm mount..........