Suspension Setup Comments? (Long)
Vehicle: 2002 Camaro SS with SLP Auburn, Bilstein Ultra Suspension, and 345 HP Package.
Mods: SLP Weld On SFC, SLP STB, BMR Tunnel Brace, MMS 218 Cam, JBA Headers, RT Cats and Y Pipe, SLP Dual-Dual, GMAF, MMS Throttle Body, plus MMS Custom tuning.
Objective: Improve handling for Road Racing, spirited mountain road driving, and mostly freeway cruise (200 miles a week)
Chassis: LG Motorsports Chassis Brace / 4 Point Roll Bar.
Front Suspension: Stock Spring and Shock, Global West Upper A-Arm with Del-A-Lum Bushing, PA Chrome Moly Lower A-Arm, and polyurthane bushings. Sometime in the future, I plan to upgrade to either PA or Agostino light weight tubular K-member.
Rear Suspension: Stock Spring and Shock, Global West Trac-Link, Global West Dual Spherical Bushings LCA, Global West Dual Spherical RHR, polyurthane bushings, LCA relocation bracket (weld on).
I really really like to obtain some extra comments and suggestions.
Thank you all in advance.
<img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />
The panhard rod is in there, the Global West Dual Spherical PHR (mis-spelled as RHR) <img src="gr_emb.gif" border="0">
I plan to replacte the torque arm with Globak West Trac-Link
I thought the drive shaft loop is for drag racing only, and would not contribute anything to the suspension setup? In any case, a carbon fiber drive shaft is also plan for the future.
I am thinking of a 4 point for easy access in and out of the vehicle, because I do plan to drive it on weekends, and God forbid, dates. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
The other thing to consider is rims/tires. You can fit 17x11's all the way around, or go with the 17x9.5" front 17x11" rear - with some sticky tires that will make a huge difference in almost all aspects of handling.
My SS comes with 17" wheels, and 275-40 tires. The 17 X 11 tires for the rear sounds intersting... Actually another possibility are 18" wheels.
[ February 26, 2002: Message edited by: leungken ]</p>
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If it's limited, you would be surprised how fast your car will be with your current set-up, given some quality instruction and seat time.
All those components give small increments of lap time reduction, given a consistant line around a closed course. But even the pros can't be THAT consistant.
What experience do you have in chassis build up, design and tuning?
If it's limited, then you might consider looking into a chassis "system" that is designed, engineered and proven on the race track.
Lou at LG Motorsports (www.lgmotorsports.com) or Sam Strano at Suspension Techniques (www.stranoparts.com) are 2 racers (not just vendors) who have specific componentry they designed, engineered and then proved successful specifically for the F-Body and track proven to work.
If you are like me, then you might find yourself neck deep in parts that just don't work well together. Once I figured that out, I had to redo a lot of stuff.
The 3 single most significant things I did to reduce lap times were ...
seat time/instruction
front end alignment for better turn in
5pt harness and seat
Now, do I have a good handling car? I dunno. I've never driven what the consensus calls a "good handling car". I know my car seems different and more predictable than it was before I began "sorting it out". But different doesn't necessarily mean better.
I see nowhere where you've mentioned brakes. If you are gonna road race, then you have to address your brakes.
It's a common misnomer that increased HP will yield lower lap times. Not necessarily true. If you come off of a corner with more acceleration and gain a higher terminal speed, you just have to begin braking earlier to slow yourself down for the next corner. There is no gain there.
However, if you can reduce the distance required to slow, then you have SIGNIFICANTLY reduced lap times, simply because you are allowing the car to be at higher speeds for a longer period of time.
And these cars can go from 100 to 20 mph a helluva lot faster than they can go 20 to 100 mph.
So being able to reduce braking time and distance yields the greatest "bang for the buck" in lap time reduction.
Finally, tires. Street tires won't cut it. You want to feel something "special", run some R compounds and you will be absolutely amazed at how your car feels and what you can do with it.
Good luck ....
Suspension and chassis tuning:
I'll contact Lou at LG Motorsports as soon as possible, since I have limited experience, and I do not know if all the suspension piece part will work together. <img src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" border="0">
Braking:
I plan to upgrade my brakes to either Baer or Wilwood brake system when I put in the suspension modifications. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Track Time:
I did not have much road course time, but I am going to attend Bragg Smith (Road Course) 2 days classes even before I start, and I plan to go there to take their 3 days basic and advanced classes again. On top of that, I live 30 minutes awau from Willow Springs, and I would try to get up their as much as possible to practice, before I go into an open race.
5 Point seatbelt
Will get that when I put in the LG Motorsport's 4 point cage.
Tires/Wheels
I am chewing on an extra set of 18" wheels, and can you recommend a brand of R-compound tires?
Just like you said, I only want to do the mod. it once, and thats it, and I want to do it right. Then after that, is is a matter of mastering the skill and utilize what I have to its maximum.
Jason:
JBA Headers because I need to keep the car CA smog legal. <img src="gr_sad.gif" border="0">



