Rear End FAQ!
09-26-2007, 02:04 PM
#61
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4 channel vs 3 channel availablity Did certain gear ratio rear ends come only with traction control or is traction control an option. For example, did the optional 3.23 rears for automatics come only with traction control?
12-27-2008, 09:27 PM
#65
I am going to say this and not to be shouvenistic (SP?) but dang it is awesome to see attractive women workin on cars your bf/husbad or gf ( I add that cause you never know and well hell bein from Cali PC is in my nature for some dumb reason) must be freakin proud and one lucky SOB, that write up helped me understand how that all works at some point I will actually get back there and do the gears up myself.
By me the only women that work on cars look like they could break me and are slightly scary... haha
Awesome write up fantastic pictures (I love picture books yeah I am that guy) haha.
By me the only women that work on cars look like they could break me and are slightly scary... haha
Awesome write up fantastic pictures (I love picture books yeah I am that guy) haha.
01-28-2011, 06:35 PM
#68
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3 Channel Installed Photo I have read a few posts that mentioned some ABS only (no TCS-traction control) 2002 Camaro's have 4 channel rears. Before buying or searching for a rear, I wanted to be sure what mine had. I have found very few photos showing exactly what a 3 channel rear looks like installed in the car, so I thought I would share mine.
3 Channel Rear:
3 Channel Rear:
03-02-2011, 10:12 PM
#69
i'm hearing a rotating grinding sound at low speed that i swear is coming from the back of my car, and at high speeds it's very noisy with some vibration and i am dying to get it fixed.
I have a 93 Trans Am which I think has the BW 9".
Any ideas?
I have a 93 Trans Am which I think has the BW 9".
Any ideas?
02-24-2012, 08:28 AM
#72
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and the sensor (as seen in this post)
I have read a few posts that mentioned some ABS only (no TCS-traction control) 2002 Camaro's have 4 channel rears. Before buying or searching for a rear, I wanted to be sure what mine had. I have found very few photos showing exactly what a 3 channel rear looks like installed in the car, so I thought I would share mine.
3 Channel Rear:
3 Channel Rear:
09-10-2015, 02:55 PM
#74
TECH Fanatic
different rearends among the 93-02's. what swaps and what wont?
15. What's the difference between a 3 channel and 4 channel rear?dum
A three channel rear end has ABS. A 4 channel rear end has ABS and traction control. A 'channel' is just a way of describing the means for a speed sensor to gauge the wheel speed. On a 3 channel rear end, the two front wheels have sensors, and there is one sensor on top of the rear end housing that reads for the whole rear. On a 4 channel rear end, there is a speed sensor at every wheel. 4 channel rear ends have reluctor wheels on each axle, 3 channel rears have one big reluctor ring on the differential. Because a 4 channel has a sensor at each rear wheel it can see the difference in speed between one wheel and the other, and ta-da, you have traction control.
16. Will a 3 channel rear end work in my 4 channel car?dum
Yes, you can make it work, if you put the axles from your four channel car into the 3 channel rear end and install the sensors into the backing plate. To put a 4 series into a 3 series would be more difficult, because it would require you to drill in the top of the rear housing for the sensor, and add a reluctor ring to the carrier as well.
17. Can't I just edit ASR/ABS out of the PCM with tuning software?dum
No, it is controlled by the EBCM.
A three channel rear end has ABS. A 4 channel rear end has ABS and traction control. A 'channel' is just a way of describing the means for a speed sensor to gauge the wheel speed. On a 3 channel rear end, the two front wheels have sensors, and there is one sensor on top of the rear end housing that reads for the whole rear. On a 4 channel rear end, there is a speed sensor at every wheel. 4 channel rear ends have reluctor wheels on each axle, 3 channel rears have one big reluctor ring on the differential. Because a 4 channel has a sensor at each rear wheel it can see the difference in speed between one wheel and the other, and ta-da, you have traction control.
16. Will a 3 channel rear end work in my 4 channel car?dum
Yes, you can make it work, if you put the axles from your four channel car into the 3 channel rear end and install the sensors into the backing plate. To put a 4 series into a 3 series would be more difficult, because it would require you to drill in the top of the rear housing for the sensor, and add a reluctor ring to the carrier as well.
17. Can't I just edit ASR/ABS out of the PCM with tuning software?dum
No, it is controlled by the EBCM.
09-11-2015, 06:02 AM
#75
the 4 channel rear you want to put in has the a sensor mounted at each brake backing plate with a reluctor ring mounted on each axle end.
Your 3 channel rear has a reluctor ring mounted on the ring gear carrier with the sensor on top of the rearend. 4 channel rears do not have that hole at top to mount the sensor.
Your 3 channel rear has a reluctor ring mounted on the ring gear carrier with the sensor on top of the rearend. 4 channel rears do not have that hole at top to mount the sensor.
05-14-2016, 12:14 PM
#76
Teching In
Can anyone point me in the direction of half shaft to diff backlash specs please? I'm working on a 98 Firebird and found 3/8" wheel movement before engaging the diff gears. This slop is consistent on both sides.
Many thanks in advanced
Many thanks in advanced
05-14-2016, 12:32 PM
#77
that 3/8" slop/play,if you're measuring at the outer diameter of a 26" diameter tire is probably normal. that 3/8" equates to about 1 1/2 degrees. Since you've got a 98 and it should have an Auburn differential,you'd have 3 areas were play could accumulate from. the splines on the axles into the splines of the differential,the spider gears within the differential itself and the ring & pinion gearset.
05-14-2016, 12:53 PM
#78
Teching In
How much play would you consider normal while in 1st gear?
I've measured 1/2" while in first gear and it makes for a very sloppy clunky drive in this car. The local shop recommends a diff rebuild and additional shims.
I have pics and videos in this other thread, could you take a look please? page 6: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...e-first-6.html
Many thanks in advanced!
I've measured 1/2" while in first gear and it makes for a very sloppy clunky drive in this car. The local shop recommends a diff rebuild and additional shims.
I have pics and videos in this other thread, could you take a look please? page 6: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...e-first-6.html
Many thanks in advanced!
06-09-2016, 12:00 AM
#79
Teching In
The lose carrier was the largest contributor to the slop.
12-02-2017, 10:58 PM
#80
Hey Guys (and gals),
I have some howling coming from the back of the car and and clunk when I put it in gear from time to time, so I'm going to replace the diff. I got a master mechanic who's gracious enough to help me put it in, but I wanted to pick the community's brain before we dive in so I've at least done my part.
I use my '01 WS6 M6 as a DD and it only has catback at this point. I have a new intake and throttle body, and will put some headers on, but I don't have plans to go much further than that. I took it to the strip once and plan to do a little auto-cross at some point too, but don't plan to do much more than that.
I've spent some time researching over the last couple weeks and wanted to air my thoughts out and see what feedback I could receive.
Because I want to DD and do just a small bit of screwing around on the track or otherwise, I think a 10-bolt will be fine, especially for my budget. I've seen post after post about Ford 9", 12-bolts, and so forth, but I don't need to spend $1,500 or $2,500.
From what I can tell, if I want a quiet ride, Motives and AAM are my best bet. Richmond is tough, but loud, and a lot of the cheaper options from like Summit Racing, Strange, US Gear, or otherwise have a better chance of being louder.
It sounds like my stock gear is a 3.42 ratio, which I'll be changing to 4.10 after reviewing this post to see how it would affect my ride: https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ere-first.html
I've seen a lot of posts promoting Eaton carriers, and after reviewing Eaton's Application Guide, I'm leaning towards an Eaton TrueTrac carrier (7.5/7.625): http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcS...Name=CT_128302
See page 5.
I've seen that I need to have enough carrier pre-load and that I use the right shims.
I'll also need an install kit, or to buy the equipment separate (bearings, gear oil, shims, etc.)
So I'd love some feedback on the above parts, which sounds like the minimum I need to consider when swapping my diff.
Also, I've been reading about how to strengthen the 10-bolt beyond this. I'm particularly interested in hearing about this as well...
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-...rearend-build/
This post talks about welding the axle tubes, using a different diff cover, and putting in a whole new set of axles.
http://www.ws6transam.org/10bolt.html
This post is for the 3rd gen, but it references the 10-bolt and mentions a Zytanium Cross Pin that kind of caught my attention. I was wondering if this was applicable for my build too. It also mentions an addition diff cover or girdle that the above post references.
I think that's it. Would love to hear back from anyone who has some experience playing around. I'm not looking to invest a ton of money, but I do want to do this well.
Thanks
Mike
I have some howling coming from the back of the car and and clunk when I put it in gear from time to time, so I'm going to replace the diff. I got a master mechanic who's gracious enough to help me put it in, but I wanted to pick the community's brain before we dive in so I've at least done my part.
I use my '01 WS6 M6 as a DD and it only has catback at this point. I have a new intake and throttle body, and will put some headers on, but I don't have plans to go much further than that. I took it to the strip once and plan to do a little auto-cross at some point too, but don't plan to do much more than that.
I've spent some time researching over the last couple weeks and wanted to air my thoughts out and see what feedback I could receive.
Because I want to DD and do just a small bit of screwing around on the track or otherwise, I think a 10-bolt will be fine, especially for my budget. I've seen post after post about Ford 9", 12-bolts, and so forth, but I don't need to spend $1,500 or $2,500.
From what I can tell, if I want a quiet ride, Motives and AAM are my best bet. Richmond is tough, but loud, and a lot of the cheaper options from like Summit Racing, Strange, US Gear, or otherwise have a better chance of being louder.
It sounds like my stock gear is a 3.42 ratio, which I'll be changing to 4.10 after reviewing this post to see how it would affect my ride: https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ere-first.html
I've seen a lot of posts promoting Eaton carriers, and after reviewing Eaton's Application Guide, I'm leaning towards an Eaton TrueTrac carrier (7.5/7.625): http://www.eaton.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcS...Name=CT_128302
See page 5.
I've seen that I need to have enough carrier pre-load and that I use the right shims.
I'll also need an install kit, or to buy the equipment separate (bearings, gear oil, shims, etc.)
So I'd love some feedback on the above parts, which sounds like the minimum I need to consider when swapping my diff.
Also, I've been reading about how to strengthen the 10-bolt beyond this. I'm particularly interested in hearing about this as well...
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hppp-...rearend-build/
This post talks about welding the axle tubes, using a different diff cover, and putting in a whole new set of axles.
http://www.ws6transam.org/10bolt.html
This post is for the 3rd gen, but it references the 10-bolt and mentions a Zytanium Cross Pin that kind of caught my attention. I was wondering if this was applicable for my build too. It also mentions an addition diff cover or girdle that the above post references.
I think that's it. Would love to hear back from anyone who has some experience playing around. I'm not looking to invest a ton of money, but I do want to do this well.
Thanks
Mike