what will allow me to win more street races???
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Maxell AFB, AL
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Torque converter or headers? O the mods in signature. I'm really torn between these 2 mods. help me out <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
#3
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Magee MS
Posts: 2,950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The headers will give you some hp but the converter is going to help you out more.... but on the street it will probably hurt you b/c of tractions issues. You can do a gear change...... alot of people say not to do it and go with a converter..... I say why not both???????? try a FTRA helps lots on the big end!! a Freind of mine had a 2000 z28 that went 12.70's with 3.73's, FTRA, Pulleys, gutted cats and a Dynomax muffler....... not too bad!!! I want to beat his time soon but his 200lb race weight difference is hurting me
He won LOOOOTTSSSSSSS of street races with that set up you might want to give it a try
Josh S.
He won LOOOOTTSSSSSSS of street races with that set up you might want to give it a try
Josh S.
#4
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: HOUSTON, TEXAS
Posts: 1,805
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dam I wish we had racing like that in houston, no luck not to many just bolt on cars here, I would by the way get a converter at the least
JET
JET
#6
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Magee MS
Posts: 2,950
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LOL .... we used to have some great street racing... but it played out when the guy with the z28 hit a car, that was parked in the road in front of him, at about 130 mph.... that pretty much ended all of our good street racing.... I'm looking for new places to get it started back up though!!!
#7
TECH Resident
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Barbaria
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The mods that will make you win are those that can't be seen. Convertor, gear, and a quiet cam. Get headers to stay competitive just because all the other LS1s have them.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Addict
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Fort Worth,TX
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
[quote]Originally posted by 2000SLVR_Z28:
<strong>Torque converter or headers? O the mods in signature. I'm really torn between these 2 mods. help me out <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>Get a yank tp 4000 stall with some nittos.Just learn how to drive.Anyway while everyone id saying you will be burning rubber well thats true but you will be burning rubber past them out of the hole and once you hook just hold up your 2 fingers and tell them peaaaccce.Trust me get the converter it will help the most.Who doesnt burn rubber if your making power unless you role around on et streets.There is nothing wrong with burning rubber so long as you are moving forward past the person next to you.
<strong>Torque converter or headers? O the mods in signature. I'm really torn between these 2 mods. help me out <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0"> </strong><hr></blockquote>Get a yank tp 4000 stall with some nittos.Just learn how to drive.Anyway while everyone id saying you will be burning rubber well thats true but you will be burning rubber past them out of the hole and once you hook just hold up your 2 fingers and tell them peaaaccce.Trust me get the converter it will help the most.Who doesnt burn rubber if your making power unless you role around on et streets.There is nothing wrong with burning rubber so long as you are moving forward past the person next to you.
#9
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 687
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Get a ST-3500 and some E.T. Streets and you will be set. I love how mine hooks on the street. <img src="gr_stretch.gif" border="0">
#10
TECH Resident
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: In front of my computer
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wassup ***. Dude, get the converter. I would recommend a Vig3200. Just dont go too big for the street and every day drivin. I almost got beat by a BMW the other day cause she wouldnt hook in 1st or 2nd. But, of course I have a Vig3600. If you want I will sell you that TCI I had in my car and do the install, it's a dang good verter for what I think you want.
Street races are over quickly and a stall lets you get and go. I've beat alot of faster cars with the TCI on my measly 289 rear wheel horses.
If your kind of street races are like from a 40 to 50 mph roll then get headers.
Late, Stu
<img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />
Street races are over quickly and a stall lets you get and go. I've beat alot of faster cars with the TCI on my measly 289 rear wheel horses.
If your kind of street races are like from a 40 to 50 mph roll then get headers.
Late, Stu
<img src="graemlins/camaro.gif" border="0" alt="[Chevrolet]" />
#11
SSU Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 4,857
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i would recommend the Vigi3200 also (i have one) but only if youre racing on ET Streets...period. for the street a SUPER YANK 4000. bottom line. that with nittos will help greatly. imagine doing a small burnout, stalling it up to 3000 or so, moderately rolling into the throttle, and only dropping to 4800 or 5000 after shifts. thats a little better than your current 3500 huh?
#12
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Maxell AFB, AL
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Stu,
If I decide to go the TC route, how much you charging me for the install and the TC? What stall is the TCI you had?
If I decide to go the TC route, how much you charging me for the install and the TC? What stall is the TCI you had?
#13
LSX Mechanic
iTrader: (89)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am suprised nobody has mentioned headers....
A buddy of mine(98 WS6) race ALL the time to f-ck around. We set up a before/after race for when I installed my Mac headers last year...
Before, I pulled my normal 2-3 cars on him..
After, I pulled a steady 5-6 cars on him <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">
Headers/ORP will DEFINATELY wake your car up on the street.
A buddy of mine(98 WS6) race ALL the time to f-ck around. We set up a before/after race for when I installed my Mac headers last year...
Before, I pulled my normal 2-3 cars on him..
After, I pulled a steady 5-6 cars on him <img src="gr_eek2.gif" border="0">
Headers/ORP will DEFINATELY wake your car up on the street.
#14
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Get a Vig 3200. It actually stalls at 3800. It's the perfect converter for the street racer. And some sticky tires. I think a converter wakes up ls1's more than the average hot rod, and a bigger stall seems to be more streetable than with other cars. My auto-x tires actually hook pretty good when they're warmed up, but I will get Nittos next.
#16
LSX Mechanic
iTrader: (89)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
You guy's keep hollerin about Convertors. Sure thats going to help you at a PREPPED track, VHT, and slicks on the car....
The street is a different story. This is no prep, no VHT, and most of the time no slicks. Most unexpected street races take place from a roll, being slow or fast. If you are seriously concerned with winning street races, Headers are going to put you out in front before a Verter will on the street. I have been racing on the street for quite a while, in my A4 LT1 and my M6 LS1. Unless you are racing someone from a complete stop and sticky tires on the car, you aren't going to see much from putting in a converter. All things considered that street racing is your TOP priority.
Josh
The street is a different story. This is no prep, no VHT, and most of the time no slicks. Most unexpected street races take place from a roll, being slow or fast. If you are seriously concerned with winning street races, Headers are going to put you out in front before a Verter will on the street. I have been racing on the street for quite a while, in my A4 LT1 and my M6 LS1. Unless you are racing someone from a complete stop and sticky tires on the car, you aren't going to see much from putting in a converter. All things considered that street racing is your TOP priority.
Josh
#17
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
[quote]Originally posted by Damian:
<strong>You guy's keep hollerin about Convertors. Sure thats going to help you at a PREPPED track, VHT, and slicks on the car....
The street is a different story. This is no prep, no VHT, and most of the time no slicks. Most unexpected street races take place from a roll, being slow or fast. If you are seriously concerned with winning street races, Headers are going to put you out in front before a Verter will on the street...
</strong><hr></blockquote>
You're partially right about top end, but I don't agree. A properly matched converter still rules on the street. Here's Why:
1) Even if you peddle into it because of traction and only cut a 1.8x 60' (instead of a 1.6x at the track) you still get an excellent jump over the typical 2.0x 60' of the stock converter or 2.2x 60' cut by the average M6 driver. 2 - 4 tenths on the launch is worth a lot.
2) From a roll, the extra torque multiplication of the converter prevents the car from dying on the upshifts. The torque generated by the converter in the midrange exceeds the gains from headers in the midrange. The higher the stall, generally the larger the absolute gain and the longer the gain lasts. My YTP 4000 is awesome from a roll.
3) If you focus on street converter with high efficency (compared with stock) you can gain as much as half of the top end power as the headers provide.
I drove a SY 3500 and 3.23 SS on factory F1's. It was a amazing how hard I could launch that car. I agree that the advantages of high STR are lost on the street, but the advantage of high stall is not.
<strong>You guy's keep hollerin about Convertors. Sure thats going to help you at a PREPPED track, VHT, and slicks on the car....
The street is a different story. This is no prep, no VHT, and most of the time no slicks. Most unexpected street races take place from a roll, being slow or fast. If you are seriously concerned with winning street races, Headers are going to put you out in front before a Verter will on the street...
</strong><hr></blockquote>
You're partially right about top end, but I don't agree. A properly matched converter still rules on the street. Here's Why:
1) Even if you peddle into it because of traction and only cut a 1.8x 60' (instead of a 1.6x at the track) you still get an excellent jump over the typical 2.0x 60' of the stock converter or 2.2x 60' cut by the average M6 driver. 2 - 4 tenths on the launch is worth a lot.
2) From a roll, the extra torque multiplication of the converter prevents the car from dying on the upshifts. The torque generated by the converter in the midrange exceeds the gains from headers in the midrange. The higher the stall, generally the larger the absolute gain and the longer the gain lasts. My YTP 4000 is awesome from a roll.
3) If you focus on street converter with high efficency (compared with stock) you can gain as much as half of the top end power as the headers provide.
I drove a SY 3500 and 3.23 SS on factory F1's. It was a amazing how hard I could launch that car. I agree that the advantages of high STR are lost on the street, but the advantage of high stall is not.
#18
LSX Mechanic
iTrader: (89)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ragtop, definately good points.
But you have to figure in that MOST street races take place till ~105 or so. By that time, most verters are done doing they're magic. In the low end, I can definately see merit in what you're saying. But I have found that most of my own personal races have been just crusing down the road at 45-50, which IMO would require more HP to just out in front rather than tighter drivetrain components.
Don't get me wrong, I am not saying a Verter isn't going to help. It sure as hell will, but if you're worried about pulling past someone at 100+, go for the Headers <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Josh
But you have to figure in that MOST street races take place till ~105 or so. By that time, most verters are done doing they're magic. In the low end, I can definately see merit in what you're saying. But I have found that most of my own personal races have been just crusing down the road at 45-50, which IMO would require more HP to just out in front rather than tighter drivetrain components.
Don't get me wrong, I am not saying a Verter isn't going to help. It sure as hell will, but if you're worried about pulling past someone at 100+, go for the Headers <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
Josh
#19
LS1 Tech Administrator
iTrader: (14)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Headers will give you at best, around 15 rwhp. A converter on the other hand, will give you 30-50 additional hp at certain rpm levels over a stock converter. Don't forget about shift extension. My Yank ST3500 converter doesn't drop below 5000 rpms on shifts. The stock converter will drop back to 3800-4000 after a WOT shift. The rwhp at 5000 rpms is much higher than 4000 rpms with the stock converter. We're talking at least 30 rwhp, maybe as much as 50 rwhp. The car with the converter would be walking away from the car with headers except on top of 3rd gear. By that time, the race is already over. Remember, in a street race, you let out after you have a convincing victory. You would only go over 100 mph if the race was very close. Comparing headers with a stock converter to a stock motor with a good converter is a no brainer. We found this out years ago. We just kept the results secret to keep our advantage. <img src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" border="0" alt="[devil]" />
__________________
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic210_1.gif)
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic210_1.gif)
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
#20
TECH Resident
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: In front of my computer
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
MMMMMM...I dont know.
<img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
Lets say 350.00 for the converter and install. It's advertised at 3500 but it only stalls about 2800 to 3000. Its very streetable. On drag radials it dropped my 60's from 2.1's to 1.8's and my 1/4 from 13.2's to 12.9's. I did have a problem with it throwing an SES lite every now and then. Driving at low speeds in OD will do that for ya. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
I had it in my car the day I ran that 12.7 on my street tires.
Later, Stu
<img src="images/icons/confused.gif" border="0">
Lets say 350.00 for the converter and install. It's advertised at 3500 but it only stalls about 2800 to 3000. Its very streetable. On drag radials it dropped my 60's from 2.1's to 1.8's and my 1/4 from 13.2's to 12.9's. I did have a problem with it throwing an SES lite every now and then. Driving at low speeds in OD will do that for ya. <img src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" border="0">
I had it in my car the day I ran that 12.7 on my street tires.
Later, Stu