INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

Reread my above post. (#22)

chicane

PM me with your location and I'll source it for you.

If you are using a friction type limited slip, most lubericants need an additional friction modifier or you will experience 'clutch chatter'. Some of the newer lubericants have this modifier mixed into it at the time of packaging..... and some dont. Most dino's do not. I like the Ford friction modifier, but I think they stopped producing it back in the late 90's.... and the only other acceptable modifier I have used is the RedLine modifier.

So far, fully synthetic differential fluids do not have the 'shock loading' characteristics that are an absolute must with a performance build. The factory synthetics (and weights used) are just fine if you are going to get groceries.... driving to work.... and so on. But when you are making good power, shifting it hard, towing a trailer.... or just driving it like you stole it, the syn's and the lighter weight lubericants just dont cut it.

XtrmLS1spd

iTrader: (6)

I just rebuilt my transmission and used GM Synchromesh. I only ran it down the road for about 10 minutes and parked it. Hopefully it works well. I've read great reviews of it on here. All I've got to say is that for $8.30 a quart, the stuff better be phenominal.

kingcuda70

iTrader: (1)

synthetic = WOM

kingcuda70

iTrader: (1)

ayuh..

silver02ws6

iTrader: (2)

is it ok to run a synthetic with a tru trac?

dailydriver

You can run any gear oil you want in a Tru Trac, but i heard a rumor/speculation that using a 140 weight (whether mineral or synthetic) or using the FM additive reduces the bias somewhat. (i.e.; if it has 2:1, it becomes a 1.8:1). I would not take this as gospel. chicane: have you heard anything about this, or could you comment/speculate on this theory??

Jimmy P

iTrader: (177)

I am also interested in hearing your opinions on what gear oil to use in my tru track equiped 12 bolt.

chicane

Well.... mechanically this is true. In effect you are changing the bias when you modify the friction coefficients. I can not say on how much the bais actually changes.... due to that you kinda have to know what the coefficients of the materials you are dealing with are at the beginning.... so that, is where the speculation begins. To say it goes from a 2.0 to a 1.8 is a definite WAG. But I dont think it is of a major concern in most street applications. Nor do I believe this to be anyway related to the viscosity however. The type of lubericant and its additives are the key players in this equation.

I would still recommend a straight 140wt.... or something like the Torco SGO/RGO 85-140wt.

This might be something to read as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/498540-redline-shockproof-viscosity-stock-10-bolt.html

MavrikTA

iTrader: (27)

So, on a factory Torsen diff, straight dino 140WT is the better choice?

fastcameross

iTrader: (2)

mobil 1 is all i use..tried upgrading to something (forget what its called) that was little more expensive, recomended by a mech., not sure it was worth it or not

-Freak-

iTrader: (6)

what fluid shoud i use on a 10bolt thats probably never been changed? 52k on it

are there any DON'Ts like not flushing or changing tranny fluid after is been neglected for so long?

INMY01TA

iTrader: (1)

Use any 80/90 non syn gear oil.