Gears whining
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From: Wright Patterson AFB
Gears whining So I just got my 373s Yukon gears installed and And im having really bad whining problem, and lately when i give a little gas from a roll they will start to grind a little. The mechanic that installed them said That he shimmed them every which way he could, and that he could not get them any quieter than that. He also said That I may have bent the Rear end housing when I slamed the rear right tire into a curb. (Long story) Is there any way to fix the whining, or is there a trick to shiming the gears on these cars? What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance and Sorry about the long Post
Thanks in advance and Sorry about the long Post
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From: Wright Patterson AFB
Originally Posted by swoleguy
I believe he probably set your backlash incorrect.Did he use a gauge or eyeball it?
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Originally Posted by MRZ28
Can anyone help me out?
If they were 2-cut he may have been trying to get a pattern like the old 5-cut gear and may have done more harm than good.
We really need some more info.
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Gear whine that soon after an install is usually and result of a bad install by your mechanic. What kind of break in did you give the gears? Improper break-in can cause the fluid to break down too quickly and premature gear failure.
Change the fluid and take a peek, check for obvious errors. The guys over at Motive might have some technical help for you too.
Change the fluid and take a peek, check for obvious errors. The guys over at Motive might have some technical help for you too.
you need to have the pattern checked it will make a diffrence when it whines if its under load or accelerating or on decell or coasting like when cruise is on. that can help ya figure oput if the pinion depth is ok or not. or if the backlash is bad.
I installed a Yukon kit myself. It's a series 2 - 3.42 ratio and I'm having the same problem.
Yukon makes only 5 cut gears, this requests 0.008 - 0.010" backlash.
My patterns look fine, all the (new) bearings have the correct preload.
At the beginning it was just a little noisy during coast, now drive + coast, and not just a little!
After few 100 miles I reopened the rear end: there was some metal grinding on the magnet and backlash went from the previous 0.008 to 0.012" (?).
The contact pattern is same as before and the surface of the theets is nice and shiny.
So everything is perfect - but it's noisy!
Are yukon known to be a good brand? I just saw somewhere they don't manufacture everything they sell...
Yukon makes only 5 cut gears, this requests 0.008 - 0.010" backlash.
My patterns look fine, all the (new) bearings have the correct preload.
At the beginning it was just a little noisy during coast, now drive + coast, and not just a little!
After few 100 miles I reopened the rear end: there was some metal grinding on the magnet and backlash went from the previous 0.008 to 0.012" (?).
The contact pattern is same as before and the surface of the theets is nice and shiny.
So everything is perfect - but it's noisy!
Are yukon known to be a good brand? I just saw somewhere they don't manufacture everything they sell...
I usually bring the backlash right down to the lowest acceptable number that way when it breaks in they are still somewhat in spec. GM spec on new gears is somewhere around 5-9 where i remember richmond stating 7-12 it changes from manufacturer, also those numbers are different for used gears as well.
Where is the pattern on the tooth (heel,tail, center) usually that whining is because the pattern is to far down on the tooth towards the center and deep into the valley of the tooth, the gears would be meshing way to tight. So many guys that set up gears just eyeball the entire install and usually use factory shims which in my experience very seldom works.
Also like somebody else stated break in is very important, usually you try and get a few hundred miles on it before you really put any force to it. I also usually change the oil after 100 miles during break in.
Where is the pattern on the tooth (heel,tail, center) usually that whining is because the pattern is to far down on the tooth towards the center and deep into the valley of the tooth, the gears would be meshing way to tight. So many guys that set up gears just eyeball the entire install and usually use factory shims which in my experience very seldom works.
Also like somebody else stated break in is very important, usually you try and get a few hundred miles on it before you really put any force to it. I also usually change the oil after 100 miles during break in.
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From: Wright Patterson AFB
Originally Posted by BanditTA
I usually bring the backlash right down to the lowest acceptable number that way when it breaks in they are still somewhat in spec. GM spec on new gears is somewhere around 5-9 where i remember richmond stating 7-12 it changes from manufacturer, also those numbers are different for used gears as well.
Where is the pattern on the tooth (heel,tail, center) usually that whining is because the pattern is to far down on the tooth towards the center and deep into the valley of the tooth, the gears would be meshing way to tight. So many guys that set up gears just eyeball the entire install and usually use factory shims which in my experience very seldom works.
Also like somebody else stated break in is very important, usually you try and get a few hundred miles on it before you really put any force to it. I also usually change the oil after 100 miles during break in.
Where is the pattern on the tooth (heel,tail, center) usually that whining is because the pattern is to far down on the tooth towards the center and deep into the valley of the tooth, the gears would be meshing way to tight. So many guys that set up gears just eyeball the entire install and usually use factory shims which in my experience very seldom works.
Also like somebody else stated break in is very important, usually you try and get a few hundred miles on it before you really put any force to it. I also usually change the oil after 100 miles during break in.
The thing is that it just didnt start, the gears have always whine, ever since i got it back from the mechanic
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From: Wright Patterson AFB
Originally Posted by tici
Did the mechanic sell you the gears also?
Or you bought them and he did only the install?
Or you bought them and he did only the install?
I bought the gears new, and brought them to the mechanic
...so now he can tell you everything...
This of the bended rear end is strange: you can bend the "side pipes" (dunno the right name) but the cast iron piece will brake, not bend.
This of the bended rear end is strange: you can bend the "side pipes" (dunno the right name) but the cast iron piece will brake, not bend.
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From: Bergen County, NJ
The Yukon gears are no more noisy than any others. It's all in the setup. If you're doing it yourself, you'll need to re-do your set up, if the mechanic did it and said he tried all he can, take it to a different mechanic.
