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rear end question

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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 06:52 PM
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hey whats the chances of making my 10 bolt last if i weld the tubes and run a girdle (built ls1 m6 ss)
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Old Apr 3, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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About the same if you didnt.

Its still a 7.5" ring gear.......
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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Its the internals that will give up first.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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Not any better than if you just left it alone.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by my black ss
hey whats the chances of making my 10 bolt last if i weld the tubes and run a girdle (built ls1 m6 ss)
Welding the tubes is a mistake. A cast iron to 4130 steel weld is NEVER a good idea. Besides, who have you ever heard of that has spun an axle tube on their car?

The cast aluminum girdle IS a good idea. This will keep the maincap's deflection under control. A local guy's ABS reluctor ring was actually interfering with his stamped steel (stock) 10-bolt cover launching his car on slicks. He found this out when he tore it apart to fix the broken posi/ring&pinion. An aftermarket cover could have prevented this as they preload the bearing caps preventing them for excess deflection when the carrier torque sideways.

Get the cover, if you upgrade to a 12-bolt, 8.8", or 9", you can always sell your TA cover on a board.

Ben T.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Studytime
Welding the tubes is a mistake. A cast iron to 4130 steel weld is NEVER a good idea. Besides, who have you ever heard of that has spun an axle tube on their car?

The cast aluminum girdle IS a good idea. This will keep the maincap's deflection under control. A local guy's ABS reluctor ring was actually interfering with his stamped steel (stock) 10-bolt cover launching his car on slicks. He found this out when he tore it apart to fix the broken posi/ring&pinion. An aftermarket cover could have prevented this as they preload the bearing caps preventing them for excess deflection when the carrier torque sideways.

Get the cover, if you upgrade to a 12-bolt, 8.8", or 9", you can always sell your TA cover on a board.

Ben T.
my cousins a4
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by my black ss
my cousins a4
That makes the absolute FIRST one I've ever heard of twisting. Granted, my life isn't reading ls1tech.com or is it hanging out at the track, but it marks the first one I've heard of.

I'd like to see pictures of this. I feel pretty confident we will see ZERO pictures of a twisted tube on a 10-bolt.

Was this a rear that someone tried to weld the tubes to the housing?

Ben T.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Studytime
Welding the tubes is a mistake. A cast iron to 4130 steel weld is NEVER a good idea. Besides, who have you ever heard of that has spun an axle tube on their car?
Yeah.... as a matter of fact, I have probably seen 75-90 twisted 7.5" tubes (from F-bodies alone) in the casing. Not to mention others having the plug welds fail or just your standard leaks at the tube joint and even a few collapsed tubes. In all, I have probably seen 250+ tubes fail in some way or another.... which would include all manufacturers.

I weld all of the 'serious effort' differentials that I build.... and not one of them has failed the the past 18+ years.

And BTW..... the tubes are not 4130. They are either 1021 or 1022 ish ERW tubing.

Originally Posted by Studytime
The cast aluminum girdle IS a good idea. This will keep the maincap's deflection under control. A local guy's ABS reluctor ring was actually interfering with his stamped steel (stock) 10-bolt cover launching his car on slicks. He found this out when he tore it apart to fix the broken posi/ring&pinion. An aftermarket cover could have prevented this as they preload the bearing caps preventing them for excess deflection when the carrier torque sideways.
Not necessarily true. The expansion and contraction factors of the various metals used in this device conflict in its operation. Albiet being a BANDAID fix for a differential that was orginally designed for use in a light weight mini truck, this will still NOT stop the ensuing faliure that is not a question of "if" but a question of "when" its going to fail.

Its a tricky balance to actually get the 'set' preload correct, without adding deflection into (or other wise known as pinching) the main cap into the bearing race when its cold..... but then again, if there is not enough (and it then heats up)..... it wont be enough and the bearing race will still taco from the carrier trying to spit the parts out the back.

Having met, and getting to know the originator/designer of this product (he is a friend of the business).... his intent was good.... and even he said it was just a "money maker" to sell a design that would be a great BANDAID, but its not a "FIX."

Last edited by chicane; Apr 4, 2006 at 10:41 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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What do you weld them with?

Ben
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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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well actually ive welded a few with no problem what so ever and i used a high carbon chronatron 333 rod but most recently used my tig with stainless filler wire
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Old Apr 5, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Studytime
What do you weld them with?
I use 3/32" SPECIAL METALS NI-ROD 55X. Its actually arc welding rod, but all I do is strip off the flux coating..... and it TIG's great from there.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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I'm rebuilding my 10 bolt and was considering welding the tubes.
Will it work ok if I use my .035 flux core setup? I don't have a gas setup yet nor anything else. its a good 175 lincoln welder.
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