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Difference going from 3.42 to 3.73 in M6?

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Old Apr 10, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Default Difference going from 3.42 to 3.73 in M6?

I purhchased a 800 mile rear end from SLP and am curious what it would be like to go to the 3.73 ratio. Not sure it taking the risk to have this rear end tore aprart is worth it. I am going to have them drop in a Auburn and take out the Zexel Torsen that is in it.

Currently have 3.42 in a M6 WS6 Vert.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 01:14 PM
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Search is your friend...

From what I've read on here unless you plan to do SERIOUS mods and will be trapping very high the 3.73 in the M6 won't make a big difference and you'll wish you had 4.10's. I've got a 9" rear end on order with 4.11's in it right now and I plan to continue modding with heads/cam in the future.

FWIW, if it were me I would not put an Auburn in place of the Torsen (the 9" I'm getting has a True-Trac which is a Torsen style gear carrier). I've had both - I had a 98 SS with Torsen and currently have an Auburn. The Auburn is really worn out right now after only 42K miles and it has been worn out for at least 10K now. No track runs, 1 auto-cross, and lots of street abuse but that's all. On straight launches I still get both tires spinning a bit but I'm doing the old "peg leg" burnout on right turns where only my passenger side tire spins.

Supposedly the Auburn is better for Auto-cross because it is clutch based...but eventually the clutch packs wear out. From what I've also read on here you can't rebuild them and you'll be forced to replace it. You can measure the Auburn effectiveness by lifting one rear tire and using a torque wrench on the lifted tire to measure resistance. I'm only getting 30-40 lbs of resistance which is very worn out.

If I had it to do over again I would never have opted for the Auburn. If you are going to do rear-end work at all I would recommend getting the 12 bolt or 9" and saving yourself any future work on it.

Good luck!
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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i went from 3.42s to 3.73s and honestly the only real difference i felt was first gear being a little easier to creap around in. (i have a cam on a 110LSA so it likes to buck). Overall if i were you i would go with 4.10s or nothing. Unless your worried about gas mileage on the highway! then you could go with 3.73s....sort of a happy medium.
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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If you plan on straight line, just keep the Zexel Torsen, or go with the Zexel Torsen T2R, same design but with preload for hard cornering and not spinning the inside wheel.
T2R is about $550 or so.
here is a link I found to a vendor,
http://www.on-trackperformance.com/Torsen.htm
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 11:20 PM
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Great scoop guys!

On the Zexel Torsion, will I be able to bust the tires loose from a roll or dead stop and put the car into a fishtail motion?
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Old Apr 12, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark A. Rogalski
Great scoop guys!

On the Zexel Torsion, will I be able to bust the tires loose from a roll or dead stop and put the car into a fishtail motion?
yes you can,
this is with my zexel torsen,
http://www.transamws6.com/video/burnout.wmv

watch this video and you can see on the first corner closest to teh camera that the inside wheel starts to spin while cornering hard,
http://www.transamws6.com/video/manny-acu4.wmv

Last edited by Zepher; Apr 12, 2006 at 10:07 AM.
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