9" Install questions and request
04-18-2006, 09:00 PM
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9" Install questions and request Trying to get ready to install my 9" from driveline solutions. Just trying to figure out what all i need to do once the rear arrives to me.
I know i need to paint it, and i know my axles have to come out of the old rear end. What misc. parts do i have to buy to get ready for the install.
More importanly can someone explain the baking plates and tcs rings to me. How do they go on. Is all i have to take is the new axles, plates and rings to where they can be pressed on.
Once the backing plates and rings are all assembled back together what next. Please explain in detail as this will be my first assembly.
If anyone can think of anything else please let me know.
Also please if anyone has them post pictures of the process.
I know i need to paint it, and i know my axles have to come out of the old rear end. What misc. parts do i have to buy to get ready for the install.
More importanly can someone explain the baking plates and tcs rings to me. How do they go on. Is all i have to take is the new axles, plates and rings to where they can be pressed on.
Once the backing plates and rings are all assembled back together what next. Please explain in detail as this will be my first assembly.
If anyone can think of anything else please let me know.
Also please if anyone has them post pictures of the process.
04-19-2006, 06:05 AM
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the install can be done with basic hand tools........
on the axles the pressing order is abs ring,backing plate, bearing, and retainer.
what you do next depends on if the rear is assembled. is center section bolt to the housing yet?
on the axles the pressing order is abs ring,backing plate, bearing, and retainer.
what you do next depends on if the rear is assembled. is center section bolt to the housing yet?
04-19-2006, 07:26 AM
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if you are keeping the abs/tcs you may have to grind alittle on your housing.the sway bar mounts will not line up also since the tubes are larger on the 9",i just welded mine some but you might be able to get 3"clamps to work.
04-19-2006, 10:48 AM
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I believe Scott said he includes all the clamps and stuff in his assemblies.
You will need to unpack and inventory everything:
Housing, two axles (one long, one short hopefully you got them with long wheel studs already pressed in), center section assembled, 2x axle seals, 2x bearing assemblies w/ O-ring and pressure ring, the center section 'T' Bolts x 10 IIRC, and 8x axle housing bolts, you will need 3/8 -24 (fine pitch) grade 8 nuts and flat washers or locking, red locktite, silicone (I use copper RTV), gear lube non-synthetic 4 qts.
Prep: Wash the housing, inside and out with a degreasing type agent. I used the Marine Clean sold with POR-15 products, works great bio-degradeable and all that fancy BS. Dry it out with an air gun or whatever. Next I used Metal Prep also sold with POR-15 stuff, preps the exterior surface of the housing for better POR-15 adhesion. Then finally a couple light, thin, coats of POR-15. Let dry overnight and your good to go. Be attentive when washing the inside, there can be a lot of residue for the welding and fitting process left in b/w the housing ends and the center section area.
Assembly: Place T bolts in center section holes pulling threaded part out towards the pinion, you can use toothfloss to wrap around the bolt to hold in place. Lay bead of silicone on the housing end, ensure you wrap around each bolt hole (I forgot one and it leaks!). Set centersection on housing, then washer over bolt, and nut, tighten in criss cross pattern. Check axle lengths and verify the shorter axle goes to the pass side? I keep forgetting. Anyway, they go in nice and even one way but not the other. Taking your old axles to a press, press off the reluctor wheels. Press relcutor wheels onto new axles. Unbolt your backing plate/caliper brackets from stock rearend, and slide in the same manner onto the new axles (they will hang freely on the axle until you bolt it down). Slide the wheel bearing w/ O-ring onto new axle, O ring faces out (towards the wheel). Press bearings into fully seated position. Press the pressure ring on after the bearing, seating it to the bearing fully. Tap an axle seal into the housing end on each side, you will see where there is a lip a couple inches in the housing ends that the seal seats against. I used an old piece of pipe that was almost the same diameter as the seal to make sure it was flush. Lightly lube the seal lip. Slide axle in and fully engage into the centersection. Line up the 4 bolt holes of the backing plate with the housing end, insert axle bolts from center facing out. I didnt have enough room for washers here, so I used red locktite and torque! It helps if you pop the parking brake shoe off the axle assembly, it simply slide up off a retaining clip, and then you pull it off. Make sure the adjusting star from the wheel cylinder doesnt go falling and rolling off on you though. Tighten 4 axle bolts, replace P brake shoe, and repeat for other side. Roll the rear end over and fill with ~4 qts of nonsynthetic gear lube.
As reminded by BADSZ28: Some ppl grind the housing down some where the Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) goes in for clearance. However, as he said, it only take a few seconds to wrap tape around the magnet end (avoid having to wipe the magnet down later), and grind the sensor itself. You grind the metal housing and a slight portion of plastic on the bottom edge of the sensor. Remove tape and install.
Also check your PHB bushings, make sure they are not torn while your there. I ended up using a prybar to spread the mounting area on the left side for the PHB to slide in easier, no way it would fit without spreading a little.
Use 3" Exhaust U-Clamps for the sway bar. I placed the clamps where I needed them first, took the stock bar bushing clamp and spread it out by hitting the arch with a hammer slightly. This allowed the stock clamp bolt holes to line up with the wider 3" clamp bolts. Process goes, U clamp and its "strap", then the bushing of the sway bar, then the stock swaybar "strap" or clamp, then the U Clamps lock washers and nuts.
The process only take a little bitof time, more "first time gitters" for me, and a couple calls for tech support on the pressing steps, but really it sounds worse than it is and I had fun with my friends lending help, we all learned....even if it was how painful it is when a 9" rolls over on your hand!
Stock DS works in most cases. If you order a 1350 yoke, make sure you get a conversion U Joint, readily available from any Spicer dealer, or NAPA. Be sure to grease the joint prior to install as its a bitch to get to it afterward.
Be sure to check the body above the TA mounting. Some ppl have to clearance with a BFH slightly to avoid the TA mount from punching a hole in the body as it "self clearances" the area. I didnt have this issue, but some do.
Make sure you check the TA mount and that it will fit w/o any issues. I would also hook up the mount before raising the rear into position, makes it easier since you dont have to fight against the body trying to get the bolts in.
GL
Charlie
You will need to unpack and inventory everything:
Housing, two axles (one long, one short hopefully you got them with long wheel studs already pressed in), center section assembled, 2x axle seals, 2x bearing assemblies w/ O-ring and pressure ring, the center section 'T' Bolts x 10 IIRC, and 8x axle housing bolts, you will need 3/8 -24 (fine pitch) grade 8 nuts and flat washers or locking, red locktite, silicone (I use copper RTV), gear lube non-synthetic 4 qts.
Prep: Wash the housing, inside and out with a degreasing type agent. I used the Marine Clean sold with POR-15 products, works great bio-degradeable and all that fancy BS. Dry it out with an air gun or whatever. Next I used Metal Prep also sold with POR-15 stuff, preps the exterior surface of the housing for better POR-15 adhesion. Then finally a couple light, thin, coats of POR-15. Let dry overnight and your good to go. Be attentive when washing the inside, there can be a lot of residue for the welding and fitting process left in b/w the housing ends and the center section area.
Assembly: Place T bolts in center section holes pulling threaded part out towards the pinion, you can use toothfloss to wrap around the bolt to hold in place. Lay bead of silicone on the housing end, ensure you wrap around each bolt hole (I forgot one and it leaks!). Set centersection on housing, then washer over bolt, and nut, tighten in criss cross pattern. Check axle lengths and verify the shorter axle goes to the pass side? I keep forgetting. Anyway, they go in nice and even one way but not the other. Taking your old axles to a press, press off the reluctor wheels. Press relcutor wheels onto new axles. Unbolt your backing plate/caliper brackets from stock rearend, and slide in the same manner onto the new axles (they will hang freely on the axle until you bolt it down). Slide the wheel bearing w/ O-ring onto new axle, O ring faces out (towards the wheel). Press bearings into fully seated position. Press the pressure ring on after the bearing, seating it to the bearing fully. Tap an axle seal into the housing end on each side, you will see where there is a lip a couple inches in the housing ends that the seal seats against. I used an old piece of pipe that was almost the same diameter as the seal to make sure it was flush. Lightly lube the seal lip. Slide axle in and fully engage into the centersection. Line up the 4 bolt holes of the backing plate with the housing end, insert axle bolts from center facing out. I didnt have enough room for washers here, so I used red locktite and torque! It helps if you pop the parking brake shoe off the axle assembly, it simply slide up off a retaining clip, and then you pull it off. Make sure the adjusting star from the wheel cylinder doesnt go falling and rolling off on you though. Tighten 4 axle bolts, replace P brake shoe, and repeat for other side. Roll the rear end over and fill with ~4 qts of nonsynthetic gear lube.
As reminded by BADSZ28: Some ppl grind the housing down some where the Wheel Speed Sensor (WSS) goes in for clearance. However, as he said, it only take a few seconds to wrap tape around the magnet end (avoid having to wipe the magnet down later), and grind the sensor itself. You grind the metal housing and a slight portion of plastic on the bottom edge of the sensor. Remove tape and install.
Also check your PHB bushings, make sure they are not torn while your there. I ended up using a prybar to spread the mounting area on the left side for the PHB to slide in easier, no way it would fit without spreading a little.
Use 3" Exhaust U-Clamps for the sway bar. I placed the clamps where I needed them first, took the stock bar bushing clamp and spread it out by hitting the arch with a hammer slightly. This allowed the stock clamp bolt holes to line up with the wider 3" clamp bolts. Process goes, U clamp and its "strap", then the bushing of the sway bar, then the stock swaybar "strap" or clamp, then the U Clamps lock washers and nuts.
The process only take a little bitof time, more "first time gitters" for me, and a couple calls for tech support on the pressing steps, but really it sounds worse than it is and I had fun with my friends lending help, we all learned....even if it was how painful it is when a 9" rolls over on your hand!
Stock DS works in most cases. If you order a 1350 yoke, make sure you get a conversion U Joint, readily available from any Spicer dealer, or NAPA. Be sure to grease the joint prior to install as its a bitch to get to it afterward.
Be sure to check the body above the TA mounting. Some ppl have to clearance with a BFH slightly to avoid the TA mount from punching a hole in the body as it "self clearances" the area. I didnt have this issue, but some do.
Make sure you check the TA mount and that it will fit w/o any issues. I would also hook up the mount before raising the rear into position, makes it easier since you dont have to fight against the body trying to get the bolts in.
GL
Charlie
Last edited by CAT3; 04-20-2006 at 12:37 PM.
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04-20-2006, 10:55 AM
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Great right-up CAT. Should be stickied as many of us ask on here about this. Including myself. You will need to grind down your ABS sensor very slightly. When you install it you will see what and where. Do not grind the housing. Takes too long. Took 30 sec. to gind the plastic a little. Very little. Don't worry about the TA not fitting under the car at first. It will make room for itself over time. Then just paint over the scratches. If you have the money get the housing powder coated. Much more durable than any other paint and will never need it again. POR-15 is decent from what I have heard. I used Stops Rust from Rustoleum. Not very durrable. I will have to touch it up. If you are doing LCA brackets, wait till the rear is in the car to have them welded or the wheels and rear will not be centerred in the wells.
04-20-2006, 01:05 PM
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Oh oh...another one for you. Put on the moser TA mount to the TA then put the TA in the car. Much easier. I will post more as I remember. Brake cleaner works great for prepping as it dries without residue and will remove damn near anything.
Last edited by BADSZ28; 04-20-2006 at 04:29 PM.
04-20-2006, 05:36 PM
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Hmmm, you know, I was supposed to take pics during the entire assembly, but I didn't...go figure. However, the assembly, other than pressing axles stuff together, is really a straight up process.
04-20-2006, 06:29 PM
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Cool.............Im gonna try and remember to take pics of the whole procces so to show to people such as myself who have never done it before. Cant wait....got the housing and axles today the center section will be here tommarow.
04-21-2006, 08:45 AM
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I should have taken pics too. I was in a hurry to get the car driving and did not think of it. The center should be ready to go on the housing. SO all you need to do is put on silicon sealer and then the washers and nuts. GO finger tight leave it for about 15-30mins and then snug them down in a cross pattern. Next install axle seals. Then slide in the assembled axles (First ABS ring, brake backing plates, bearing with O-ring to wheel side, then retainer ring) tapping them till they stop and bolt down the backing plates with supplied T-bolts and nuts. It is easiest to remove the e-brake pads.
05-29-2006, 09:42 AM
#18
Originally Posted by CAT3
Use 3" Exhaust U-Clamps for the sway bar. I placed the clamps where I needed them first, took the stock bar bushing clamp and spread it out by hitting the arch with a hammer slightly. This allowed the stock clamp bolt holes to line up with the wider 3" clamp bolts. Process goes, U clamp and its "strap", then the bushing of the sway bar, then the stock swaybar "strap" or clamp, then the U Clamps lock washers and nuts.
The process only take a little bitof time, more "first time gitters" for me, and a couple calls for tech support on the pressing steps, but really it sounds worse than it is and I had fun with my friends lending help, we all learned....even if it was how painful it is when a 9" rolls over on your hand!
The process only take a little bitof time, more "first time gitters" for me, and a couple calls for tech support on the pressing steps, but really it sounds worse than it is and I had fun with my friends lending help, we all learned....even if it was how painful it is when a 9" rolls over on your hand!
05-29-2006, 12:34 PM
#19
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Also another thing to check and i'm sure Scott already told you, hopefully Scott will chime in here and correct me if I say this wrong but after the assembly is done and you're ready to start break-in, check to see that when it's out of gear and parking brake off, that you can turn both wheels. The bearings are new so it may take some force but start with the passenger side, it will spin. Switch to the driver side and see if you can spin it just as freely as you were able to on the passenger side. If you cannot spin the driver side as freely, you will need to pull the driver side axle and grind down the end of the axle about 1/8" to 3/16". Scott may have already done this for you but it has something to do with shimming of the posi unit and it gets in a bind. Sorry for the lack of getting technical with it I just know I had/have this problem. If you got the tru-trac unit you shouldn't be able to hear it operate, I can hear mine winding when turning into parking spots at less then 5mph and if turning left my driver side wheel will "hop" or slide through the turn... not normal. If you don't do this and you have this problem, you will bust the axle bearing(I already did this once).