Installed the MCLeod Adjustable master and bled & re-bled the system (didn't do drill mod)to correct low engagment problem which appeared after new GM master & slave was installed by dealership.

After adjustable master the Low engagement problem gone under normal driving conditions ....BUT at high rpms and after high rpm runs the pedal comes back partially and engages low.

When the pedal starts sticking low .. I can push in the clutch and rev it for a while and bang the pedal is driving my foot back to the top. Then it is OK (but notchy) till the next high Rpm shift..

However the pedal returns to normal (engages upper travel) when the car is cold.

I think I have a bad slave or throwout bearing ... anyone ever get & slove this funky partial pedal sticking and engagment point moving issue.

BTW the Clutch holds like a rock (zero slippage)!

Thanks,
Todd Rehr XLRATE

405.8 rwhp / 384.6 rwtq

'99 30th Anniversary TA WS6 (#1118)- M6: MTI lid, FRA, TB bypass, Ported and polished TB, Cooling Fan Switch,Power Cutout, K&N, 4:10s, MOBIL 1, Nitto DRs, Pro5.0 , SLP underive Pulley, MORE stage 2 CNC heads (2.08/1.60) & Cam (comp 216/220 - 525/532) & top end kit, Boxed LCAs, LS6 intake, Fernco Mod, Mac Headers and custom Y pipe (C&L high flow cats and FM collector), Ed Wright programming, MAFT, Star Stage 2 clutch, KnockOut Box.

 

No clue Todd, but here's a bump for a former CFB member <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />

J.

 

I have the same problems as you right now as well. Although mine aren't as severe or frequent, i noticed when it partially comes back and you play with the pedal's free play, it'll come back quicker.....im guessing this is beacuse we haven't done the drill out mod. Right now im shying away from doing the drill mod at a local shop for $180. I'm hoping when i do, do the drill out mod it'll solve the problem. Other than that, I think i can live with the small free play every so often. If you do get the drill out mod. Let me know how it feels after.

 

Well I went ahead and spent a good part of a day Pulling the Tranny, & master.

My Star PP bolt wee still nice & tight! (rules that out) ... Replaced the slave with another brand new unit & did the drill mod to the line. I tried to bench bleed system with an el-cheapo Might vac.

Put it all back together and I have an improvment but it is not cured!

Car shifts fine until I do a high RPM shift and then the pedal only comes back half way. A few quick pumps and it is back to normal. It will stay good until the next high rpm run.

I Also noticed that if I do back to back high rpm shifts (notchy after the first) the pedal comes back half way after first and then as I pounce in the gas the pedal will drive back up aganist my foot and go down hard with the next push! Once again a few quick pumps and it will return to normal.

I have replaced everything! and the Star Clutch, flywheel & pressure place are in execllent condition and holding like a rock!

Anyone are these just symptoms of air in the system?...or do I need professional help?

Thanks,

Todd

 

Todd, check your mail.

 

Any update 6 days later?

 

Well as Jason suggested I disconnected the line to the slave and and the pedal was rock hard .. no give at all and I almost stood on it!

So we bled the system again! The car shifts sweet until a high rpm shift and then the engagment is off the floor. Once this happens if I put it in neutural and rev it to high rpms several times the pedal will shoot back to the top of the travel and will go down real hard with the engagmnet is at the top. The the next push at high rpm puts it to the floor again! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> I am about crazy ... what the hell is happening & why!

I have had 3 masters (current McLoed adj) and 3 slaves and hours worth of bleeding.! My star stage two PP bolts are tight and it is not slipping at all!

What are the sighs of over extending the slave with too long of an adjustment of the master rod?

I am now begging for any help!!!!

 

Went through what you guys are seeing, here is what I found;

Background; burnt my clutch bad at the track one night, never was the same. Erratic engagement, slipping, pedal sticking. I did the following:

1. Replaced MC with Mcleod adjustable and did the drill mod at the same time.
a. could now drive car, but something isn't right. Clutch feels different all the time, hot, cold, and after some torque all make it feel different.
b. adjusting stroke of MC rod helped but something is still wrong.

2. Bit the bullit, bought a RAM clutch and PP, also bought a new slave. Had my fly wheel blanchard ground.

3. Did all the work myself, looking for clues to these hydraullic clutch failures. Found:
a. my original clutch didn't look that bad
b. the fly wheel and original pressure plate did have some indication of overheat (hot spots) but nothing drastic. Looked pretty good.
c. Close inspection of the stock slave showed a couple issues when compared to the newer version.

I. The original slave has a significantly smaller wire diameter on the spring.
II. My slave showed evidence of severe overheating, looked worse than any other part heat wise.
III. There was zero lubrication on the splined area, looked all rusty and frozen. Not free sliding on shaft.
IV. The slave was found to be very loose, the two 10mm bolts were almost hand tight.
V. Perhaps most important, I found the spring itself "over bound" meaning the bottom of the wrap had the next layer bound over it. I believe this is caused by extensive travel of an adjustable MC. Probably my bust for having the MC adjusted with too much travel in an effort to get the clutch to disengage.

All in all, I vote for the slave as causing 99% of MY problems.

Mike

00SS

 

this is news!! I put in a new slave and all of a sudden , as much as i adjust the adj. master rod, i cant get it to disengage closer to the floor, its at the end of the pedal. I also have a weird squeeking noise that is really evident in the car that is bad when im stopping or anytime, it does it when it wants too.. I cannot figure what the He## it is!! Its a cartek clutch, brand new about 3 weeks old and its grinds alot when i try and speed shift, mostly cause i think its engaging late of the floor..

 

OUCH! I'm doing a complete rebuild ( ram 402, 980 disk, McLeod adj. master and 2001 slave ) in 2 wks. and hope all goes well for me! Also hope that TRehr figures out what's up.

 

Well

I found the culprit thanks to Cartek. I have replace everything and the FW PP & clutch all look good (<3000 anyway).... WEll I own a Stage 2 Star which is modifed Z06 PP and FW and GM disk with kevlar pads. According to Carteck the Z06 and the corresponding Stars do the same thing ... a flaw in the springs inside PP.

Called back Star and they admitted it! They said all I need to do is send my stuff back and they will upgrade the PP to a "level 2" spring setup....which is the current setup they sell.

Bummer I spent hundreds of dollars on Slaves, & masters for nothing.(and F**KIN hours installing and bleeding) ... the only good news is that SPEC told me my McLeod adj master is needed for the "level 2" upgrade!

Now I gotta tear it down ship the parts and wait for them to return to put it back together. At lease the Guys at Star were honest and are standing behind thier product!

 

Todd, I was starting to think it was the pressure plate, since that was about the only thing you hadn't changed. I'm glad you have it all sorted out!

Jason