Dana 60 for F-bodys
07-04-2006, 04:50 PM
#21
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I'm saying that mine weighs right at about the same as a 9' give or take a couple of pounds cause we compared the one I ordered against a friends who was installing a 9" at the same time I was having mine modded after 2 months of driving.
As far as overkill, if you install a part and it does the job, doesn't break, and provides exactly what you want out of it, it isn't overkill. IMO the idea is to avoid breaking stuff by installing the strongest and most direct part possible.
Rearends can be lightend or made heavier through component selection and expectation of performance, its all in how their built. I ordered mine with a certain expectation in mind and then had some additional work put into it after I received it. Axles have been replaced with gun drilled 35 spline units, light weight brake parts, etc...
Installing a part that is marginal in any way is wasting money IMO. Especially if it causes vibrations (9"'s due to an offset pinion angles), can't utilize systems some might find useful (abs, again 9"'s with no three channel provision), whine, break, or have other issues (12 and 10 bolts). Not every one experiences these problems with those units and are completely happy, and that's great. They have the perfect application and parts selection for their needs.
If you have a rear end that is whining, overheating, breaking stuff, then you have a problem in the setup or application. The Dana 60's are known for being tough as ****, quiet, and damn near bullet proof. Mine is rated for 1600 hp and tq. Considering up coming mods over the next two years including an iron 408 with procharger and NO2, I would rather build it once, build it right and never have to worry about it again.
As far as overkill, if you install a part and it does the job, doesn't break, and provides exactly what you want out of it, it isn't overkill. IMO the idea is to avoid breaking stuff by installing the strongest and most direct part possible.
Rearends can be lightend or made heavier through component selection and expectation of performance, its all in how their built. I ordered mine with a certain expectation in mind and then had some additional work put into it after I received it. Axles have been replaced with gun drilled 35 spline units, light weight brake parts, etc...
Installing a part that is marginal in any way is wasting money IMO. Especially if it causes vibrations (9"'s due to an offset pinion angles), can't utilize systems some might find useful (abs, again 9"'s with no three channel provision), whine, break, or have other issues (12 and 10 bolts). Not every one experiences these problems with those units and are completely happy, and that's great. They have the perfect application and parts selection for their needs.
If you have a rear end that is whining, overheating, breaking stuff, then you have a problem in the setup or application. The Dana 60's are known for being tough as ****, quiet, and damn near bullet proof. Mine is rated for 1600 hp and tq. Considering up coming mods over the next two years including an iron 408 with procharger and NO2, I would rather build it once, build it right and never have to worry about it again.
Last edited by Joker; 07-04-2006 at 04:55 PM.
07-13-2006, 07:36 AM
#22
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I'm really happy with mine so far. I had the first one built by Scott at DriveLIne Solutions. It whines a bit around 50, but thats the last thing i'm worried about right now. For such a big honker, it drives great. I just got back from a trip upstate 3 hrs constant 85+ mph and no problems. I have drag raced aswell as road raced it. I will be doing more of both in the coming weeks with only change being shocks, brakes, and tires.
Look at all the M6 cars over the years that have toasted limited slip diffs in their 12 bolts and 9in's. Most of those guys went to a locker or spool. You can get away with a smooth LSD (tru-trac) and still be strong with a S60.
Look at all the M6 cars over the years that have toasted limited slip diffs in their 12 bolts and 9in's. Most of those guys went to a locker or spool. You can get away with a smooth LSD (tru-trac) and still be strong with a S60.
07-13-2006, 07:59 AM
#23
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it's a simple question:
do you need it? probably not.
i wouldn't get one because honestly it's not needed unless you're making like 1000hp. 9" rears are basically indestructable as it is for 99% of applications. i'd get an S60 in one area: if i was an M6 with 3 channel ABS since it's not supported with the 9". if you have 4 channel ABS, get the 9". it's generally quieter, there's no shortage of parts and i doubt it'll ever break.
just my suggestion, but i'm not expert. just what i would do.
do you need it? probably not.
i wouldn't get one because honestly it's not needed unless you're making like 1000hp. 9" rears are basically indestructable as it is for 99% of applications. i'd get an S60 in one area: if i was an M6 with 3 channel ABS since it's not supported with the 9". if you have 4 channel ABS, get the 9". it's generally quieter, there's no shortage of parts and i doubt it'll ever break.
just my suggestion, but i'm not expert. just what i would do.
07-13-2006, 10:05 AM
#24
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Dana 60s are supposed to be "indestructible", I called a major rear-end shop regarding my Charger... The guy basically said "Forget the 9", forget the 8 3/4 (Mopar), get the Dana 60... Money and strength wise you cant beat it.", I still havent gotten it but hopefully will.
On a side note, Mopars came with either Dana 60s or 8 3/4s from the factory for suregrip rears.
On a side note, Mopars came with either Dana 60s or 8 3/4s from the factory for suregrip rears.
07-13-2006, 08:43 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by QUASAR
I'm really happy with mine so far. I had the first one built by Scott at DriveLIne Solutions. It whines a bit around 50, but thats the last thing i'm worried about right now. For such a big honker, it drives great. I just got back from a trip upstate 3 hrs constant 85+ mph and no problems. I have drag raced aswell as road raced it. I will be doing more of both in the coming weeks with only change being shocks, brakes, and tires.
Look at all the M6 cars over the years that have toasted limited slip diffs in their 12 bolts and 9in's. Most of those guys went to a locker or spool. You can get away with a smooth LSD (tru-trac) and still be strong with a S60.
Look at all the M6 cars over the years that have toasted limited slip diffs in their 12 bolts and 9in's. Most of those guys went to a locker or spool. You can get away with a smooth LSD (tru-trac) and still be strong with a S60.
I really want you to stop by so I can put a pattern on that gear to see why it makes noise.
07-24-2006, 10:33 PM
#28
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They are like 9 inchers, horsepower robbers! They do not break, but unless it is a low 8 second car or quicker go with a built 12 bolt. Dana 60's and 9 inchers just slow you down. You work hard to make good power, why give it away to a heavy driveline. It is like the added weight of a roll bar when the car is only a 12-13 second car, just does not make sense.
07-24-2006, 10:42 PM
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Another thing that you do not realize is it is not just the heavy weight of things, but with large gears there is alot if pinion gear touching ring gear at the same time. It makes for strength, and allows for real deep gears like 5.86 and not break pinions(why 4x4 guys love them in rock crawlers) but that is where more power is lost that the weight itself.
