kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

Other than changing the fluid on my rear end a couple of years ago. I am pretty unfamiliar with rear ends and the problems with GM's rear ends. I have recently though started hearing a popping noise when taking left turns at low speeds. I do not believe there is any noise when taking rights. I am just wondering what needs to be fixed? Will changing the fluid again help? I have 3.42 gears (stock) w/ limited slip. I have done some reading, and I do not think I added any additive to the rear end when I changed the fluid. And I do not remember seeing any yellow springs in the rear end. I do remember seeing the gears though, so I would guess I have the torsen rear end. If I need a rear end, I would definitely be on a budget (I will have to credit card charge it). What are my best options as far as price and quality? Further what would need the least modification from my current setup? If I do need a new rear end, what is the proper procedure for installing it? I looked through all 6 pages from this forum and read several topics, but I am still unsure of my situation.

Thanks

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

damn no one can at least let me how long I have before this goes out completely. I have been looking at rear ends and I would like to keep my ABS. Would the Moser 12 bolt be my best option?

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

well damn I guess I am just wasting my time in here
I might as well wait until the ******* car leaves me stuck on the side of the road then order the ******* rear end that I want
no matter that it maybe a bad decision

TransAminal

Chill man. I guess most of the guys must have missed your post, no need to get upset

First thing I would do is change the differential fluid. Get about 3 quarts of 75W-90 gear oil (I bought Mobil 1 for mine), and a bottle of the GM limited slip additive from your dealer. Refill the diff, and see if it fixes the issue. The popping noise is more than likely just the effect of not having the limited slip additive for the clutch packs, it shouldn't have done any permanent damage, you're not the first person to forget the additive

Start with that, and if the problem is still there, then explore your options for a new diff.

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

thanks for replying

I ordered the GM additive today and tried to pick up some mobil 1 75W90 today at oreilly and walmart, neither had it

I am going to pick up the additive tomorrow and try auto zone for some the gear oil. a couple question though should I bother with a gasket? I ordered one but that does not mean I have to use it. and second I found royal purple at one oreilly, any thoughts about that brand in comparsion to mobil 1?

sorry for getting frustrated, and I think after reading old topics for the past few days, many of my earlier questions have been answered (how to install, what my options are and prices)

I just worry when its a 2500 investment and it seems a consensus to not repair the 10 bolt

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Honestly, my 10-bolt rear end has been making noises like that (only mine does it around right hand corners - go figure) for the longest time (about 3 years at this point). It hasn't given up the ghost yet, and I flog on it all the time (although not on sticky tires). I don't think you are in danger of it dying in the near future, but then again, it depends on your driving style.

You only need two quarts of whatever fluid you want (although most people on here will recommend against using a synthetic in the rear - do a search to find out why), and one bottle of limited-slip additive. That's about all the rear end will take fluid-wise. I personally double gasket my rear end, but then again, I'm an idiot (again, go figure).

I'll be doing the same with my new Strange 12-bolt...I'll be using non-synthetic Torco 85w140 gear oil, and one bottle of their additive for my Eaton equipped rear, along with a reusable gasket from Summit racing.

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

well it sounds like I would have to order that oil? What would be the best oil I can buy locally? I would like to be able to do this, this weekend. And do I really need such a heavy oil? I thought GM recommended 75W90?

Further I did a search and found that synthetic oil can cause a leak. I had this happen last time I changed the rear end oil with mobil 1. I had to get some warranty work done(believe the damn windows ) shortly after this, and as I remember the dealership fixed the leak under warranty.
I suppose it could have been my gasket job as well, not sure?

anyways what is my best option for picking up gear oil locally? I mean should I just buy the stuff from the stealership?

Also Steve were you able to keep your ABS with that strange 12 bolt?

Keenov

iTrader: (5)

lol

The popping could be the sounds of broken spider gears in the differential. To tell you how long the rear end would last.. **** I would be rich if I had that power.

Yes, you can keep ABS with a strang 12 bolt. But should you??

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I ended up ordering the Torco...that is true. You could also try to source Schaeffer's oil, but I've found that to be just as elusive, if not moreso. I went with a heavier weight simply due to the shock loading it gets from my clutch and heavy right foot. I just wanted it to stick to the gears a little better, even if it does get cold around here in the winters. I could always step it back to the 75w90, as they make that weight too (again, non-synthetic). Not sure what kinda dino oil is available for the rear locally...seems like all Vatozone had was Mobil 1 in the 75w90. I'm sure you could come up with something decent though...

As for the 12-bolt, I actually opted for no ABS (my choice). Some people complain of having problems with the sensors or the wiring, and I just didn't want to deal with it at all. I got the SJM ABS delete kit (although I haven't put it on yet), and I'll just do it that way. This will be my winter car for this winter, and maybe next...that's it. After that, it'll be a nice weather only car.

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

I thought moser had an option for keeping the ABS? Did I not read something correctly? Is the "but should you" question in regards to the quality control at strange? Or something else?

If something is broken will it be obvious when I open the rear to change the fluid?

Yeah Vatozone and Pepboys are my last options. Since my car is a daily driver , I think will look for a 75W90 or 80W90. I just never am sure about which are good brands....

Does the ABS delete kit, turn off ABS on the front as well? And I am guessing this fixes any problems that may occur with the car's computer?

Thanks

Brianss1

YOu need that additive put 2 bottles in and keep your abs brakes,just my 2 cents worth.Any name brand gear oil will work fine.

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

I need two bottles of the additive...
I do not believe I have the auburn rear end.
I thought normal procedure was only one bottle?
Can you give me a reason why you are suggesting two?
If I am using two bottle of the additive, would you still recommend 75W90?

Thanks

Brianss1

I used 2 in the last 12 bolt i changed and used 85-140 Castrol Dino,it will help keep the gears quiet, it will also prevent searing of the gears, because it disapates the heat faster than thinner oil.It will leave oil coating on the gears longer.You dont have to use 2 additives.One is most all use,but I have been told by my dealership to use 2 at one time,maybe they were just selling me more.LOL.

2002_B4C

if you have a torsen rear end you dont have to use the additive. the sound you hear is miles on the rear. no one can predict the time left on it but i drove mine for about a year and a half like that.

ckingcmaro

Does your rear have a really high pitched unbearable whine while driving? (Note this is not tranny whine)

Brianss1

No additive did not know that.What makes it different ?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

The ABS delete kit replaces the entire ABS block, and the computer goes out right along with it. These cars actually have multiple computers, so it will take care of anything associated with the ABS system trying to modulate the brake line pressures when it shouldn't be (it usually does this when the ABS fails). The only problem is that you'll have some lights on the dash to deal with (the ABS INOP, Brake, and TCS OFF [if so equipped] will stay on constantly). Supposedly, jumping a couple pins on the connector will help out with some of this, but I have yet to verify. If jumping the connectors doesn't work, I'll pull the cluster and take the offending bulbs out.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Yes, you should put the additive in. I think the only one that doesn't "require" the additive is the Detroit True Trac, but even that can benefit slightly from the additive.

bigfoot2thefloor

yea i just had the samething! get it to the shop the rears done man it started doing it and i thoguht the wheel was slapping the inner wheel well or a control arm was broke it was definatly the differential

kny3twalker

iTrader: (31)

I talked to someone at a local Chevy Dealership, and he thought I should start with a differential fluid change. I just broke it down tonight. It is all back together now, and I will be putting fluid in it tomorrow. There was definitely alot of metal shaving attached to the magnet. I am not sure what I think about taking the 10 bolt somewhat to be fixed, if I buy a new 12 bolt I will be installing myself, well with a friend's help. My point is I would rather use the money, which would be spent on repairing the internals (which neither my friend and I can do), towards something that I will not be able to break with my current setup (12 bolt).