RAM VDS people did you use the shims?
<small>[ July 26, 2002, 07:53 AM: Message edited by: 9T9BlueTA ]</small>
or mike@rapidmotorsports.com
He installs these clutches a lot.
Think of it like this. If the fingers go past center, at higher RPM the centrifugal force acting on the levers will try and pull them inward, based on their angle. Ideally, any clutch should disengage before this center point. Different units have different installed heights. Thats why the factory clutches are a problem!
By installing the clutch without shims, the fingers are in a lower position, and it is nearly impossible to get full release without travelling them below this center line. Using the shims keeps the levers higher to avoid this problem.
The shims are designed to allow you to maintain the clutch as the disc wears. The thinner the disc gets, the more the levers move back and the morer the static load on the clutch is reduced. Removing shims at this point restores the static to its original level.
Another bonus of this adjustability is being able to reduce the static load in a race application, if the clutch hits too hard...
Everyone <img border="0" alt="[boring]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_zzz.gif" /> yet?
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
<strong>OK, lemme try and explain this. The cause of sticking diaphragms is when the fingers are travelled bellow the center line of their plane of rotation <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
Think of it like this. If the fingers go past center, at higher RPM the centrifugal force acting on the levers will try and pull them inward, based on their angle. Ideally, any clutch should disengage before this center point. Different units have different installed heights. Thats why the factory clutches are a problem!
By installing the clutch without shims, the fingers are in a lower position, and it is nearly impossible to get full release without travelling them below this center line. Using the shims keeps the levers higher to avoid this problem.
The shims are designed to allow you to maintain the clutch as the disc wears. The thinner the disc gets, the more the levers move back and the morer the static load on the clutch is reduced. Removing shims at this point restores the static to its original level.
Another bonus of this adjustability is being able to reduce the static load in a race application, if the clutch hits too hard...
Everyone <img border="0" alt="[boring]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_zzz.gif" /> yet?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yup that is exactly what ya told me on the phone <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> Mike. I didnt know you were a member her lol this is great. Now I can show this to my friend who helps me do the tranny and he doenst have to talk to you. I tried to explain it the way you told me but really screwed it up, he was like <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> .
Mike, I am curious as to why the instructions that came with the VDS clutch said remove the shims for a street application? Also does this mean that as the clutch wear I have to take the shims out? (that would suck)
Thanks again for posting this info <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> .
<small>[ July 27, 2002, 08:39 PM: Message edited by: 9T9BlueTA ]</small>
Java, let me know when <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />
<small>[ July 28, 2002, 06:16 AM: Message edited by: Stick only ]</small>






