What Makes a Stock 10 Bolt Break in a M6 Car.
01-15-2007, 08:27 PM
#21
As previously mentioned, shock, and being little in size are the thinkgs tht bring it down. Everything inside can, and will fail because everything is so small in size.
Someone on the local board pulled off his rear end cover after a 1/4 mile pass, in a LT1 , and this is what fell out.
Someone on the local board pulled off his rear end cover after a 1/4 mile pass, in a LT1 , and this is what fell out.
01-15-2007, 09:56 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by wldesyWS6
"Why did GM use a junk rear end in cars making 300rwhp off the showroom anyways?!?!"
who knows, but if i remember right that same 10 bolt was already in production for other cars so instead of designing a new one they just threw that one in there....
who knows, but if i remember right that same 10 bolt was already in production for other cars so instead of designing a new one they just threw that one in there....
01-16-2007, 12:42 PM
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My bother broke the pinion on his Richmond 4.10s. Upon inspection they had a bad pattern and were poorly installed.
What breaks rear ends is sudden sustained shock loading or wheelhop as stated by Sprayed1998. Street clutches are expected to last many miles and not to slip. The so called "performance" clutches are far too brutal on engagement and these cars are usually not geared adiquately to launch these heavy cars. Real drag race clutches are designed to slip more on engagement to keep from bogging the car and breaking parts as well as to keep from overpowering the tires on an evil car. If you bog the car, you will break parts no matter how strong you might think they are. Something has to slip for the first 40 feet or so. Clutch, tires, both. I have heard several old timers who raced manual transmission cars successfully back in the day say they liked the tires to spin about one revolution out of the hole. With an automatic car, a good stall converter does this for you. A stock converter with slicks on a good track will also bog the car. With a stick car your on your own. The motor has to be in an rpm where it can make enough power to roll out smoothly. If you have wheel hop this must be cured before even considering other problems.
Just my two cents.
Henry
What breaks rear ends is sudden sustained shock loading or wheelhop as stated by Sprayed1998. Street clutches are expected to last many miles and not to slip. The so called "performance" clutches are far too brutal on engagement and these cars are usually not geared adiquately to launch these heavy cars. Real drag race clutches are designed to slip more on engagement to keep from bogging the car and breaking parts as well as to keep from overpowering the tires on an evil car. If you bog the car, you will break parts no matter how strong you might think they are. Something has to slip for the first 40 feet or so. Clutch, tires, both. I have heard several old timers who raced manual transmission cars successfully back in the day say they liked the tires to spin about one revolution out of the hole. With an automatic car, a good stall converter does this for you. A stock converter with slicks on a good track will also bog the car. With a stick car your on your own. The motor has to be in an rpm where it can make enough power to roll out smoothly. If you have wheel hop this must be cured before even considering other problems.
Just my two cents.
Henry
