Looks like Burkhart chassis now makes the 9" housings that Billingsley used to. That still looks like the hot set up. Just have to get all the other parts yourself and have someone assemble it I guess.

 

We sell them complete and assembled too guys..Nothing has changed you just call us insted of Billingsley..

 

I can understand what he means. It sucks to spend the money on something only to have it fail. Hell I spent enough money on my tranny from a well known co. It failed after 5 runs. I sent it back they took care of it. I reinstalled it only for it to fail AGAIN on the jackstands. The down time completely sucked. I had to send my converter back to vig twice to be cleaned. The tranny had to be fixed AGAIN.Its scary to finally break down and buy that part thats suppose to handle way more power than you have only to break.

 

Its very disheartening. Especially when you only have cash for big ticket items like a tranny or a rear end once a year.
I love having overdrive but I hate swapping out transmissions.
Its why my car has a TH400.

 

time to find someone else to do your tranny work then.

 

Back up to the top to show that you can have problems with any brand. Bob

 

Happened to me and no choice to just spend the money to fix the ****.

 

Am I correct in saying that you TTT'd this thread simply because it's subject matter is hurtful to the competitor of the brand you sell? (moser) Am I wrong here? Wouldn't that be like Byunspeed TTT'ing a thread in which a member had problems with EPP? Is it just me or does that not seem a little shady? Do you need the business that bad?

 

OUCH!!!

SS14PSI==> <==EPP

 

LMFAO. Good one hahahaha.... HIGH FIVE!

 

The reason I pointed this out is because lately there has been a lot of Moser bashing, which makes people think that it is only Moser that ever has problems. This thread here has more than one person on it who has a problem with a rear that is not a Moser.
No matter what you buy, someone somewhere is going to eventually have a problem with it. When it deals with high performance, more things can go wrong. When you have the internet, one persons problems can get around to everyone.
I would like to see the ratio of Moser to the other brands of rears that are sold on here. I'll bet a lot more Mosers are sold, meaning there is a greater chance of someone having a problem with one. Bob

 

Agreed. I think that there are thousands of 12 bolts, 9 inch's and S60's sold nationwide that perform without a hitch. I think we really only hear about the bad ones.

 

LOL....Nice re-creation!

 

I hate to bring a thread back from the dead, but my Dana has had vibration issues since I bought it (well over a year ago), and I think this might be my problem. However, I have some questions about it...

1) What is TIR?
2) Am I looking for the studs not being centered on the hub or the hub not being centered on the axle?
3) How can I check this?

I'm soooo hopeful that this is my problem. I can't describe how much this bothers me.

 

Hi Gauge,

TIR=Total indicated readout is how much the indicator moves in one rotation.

The hub and or stud pattern could be off center, if it is, the faster the axle spins the worse the vibration gets.

You can check it out by pulling off the wheels and using a dial indicator positioned on the OD of the wheel mounting flange and carefully turning the axle while watching the dial indicator. Be carefull not to lift or move the axle while turning it as it could throw off the reading. The hub that centers the wheel is the right place to measure but it is hard to get to with the wheels studs installed.

My S60 was off .009 to .012 as I remember on both the hubs and the studs. I think anything more than .002 is too much IMHO. My 9" was .001 and I have not had any vibration problems.

If the hub/studs are off center, pull the axles and send them back to strang. If it's off, they should replace them for you free of charge.

Hope they didn't resell you the axles from the one they bought back from me.

Good Luck
Dee Jay

 

If you ordered the Eaton HD posi option, you have to use NON-synthetic fluid and the GM or Strange additive. My strange 12-bolt did the same thing. Once the fluids from Strange were added, it's quiet as a mouse ... maybe not the same scenario, but, a thought. It was the same with my old 10-bolt ... makin' ALL KINDS OF NOISES ... had the HD Eaton posi option with kevlar clutches ... the instructions that come with the Eaton HD posi unit warn you about using synthetic fluids.

 

No Additive Needed.. Per Stranges Instructions When Next Levle Performance Spoke With Stranges Techs (even Though There Is A Sticker On The Dam Thing That Says Add Additive

Mine Needed A Complete Rebuild.. My Car Has Been In The Shop Since Mabye 2 Weeks After I Solved This Problem So I Still Havent Even Broken The Dam Thing In Yet.. As Of Last Ride All Was Good But Like I Said I Mabye Have 300 Miles On It

 

Im serisouly undecided on whether to get a 9" or an s60

good to see Strange took care of the problem

 

M6 w/4:11 gears, I'd go with a Curry 9". Of couse, on Nitto's I wouldn't worry about it and the DANA would def take care of you, but, you'll likely eventually be running a stickier tire at the track. If you go 9's in the future, you'll wanna' build it for 8's ... = 9"

 

My plan is to make my car a GM performance every day supercar that is very driveable and can run 11's at the track and still ride very good around town,

I chose Nittos cause its a good priced driveable 315, Im leaning towards the 9in