4.10 worth it?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 571
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
I dont understand what you mean by your question..
Yes I would recommend 4.10s with that cam, sinc eyou have more high end power, you may lose lower RPM torque, so 4.10s will pull you out of the hole faster.
and yes your top speed should still be high in 5th , since that cam makes more high end power than a stock cam would..
Yes I would recommend 4.10s with that cam, sinc eyou have more high end power, you may lose lower RPM torque, so 4.10s will pull you out of the hole faster.
and yes your top speed should still be high in 5th , since that cam makes more high end power than a stock cam would..
4.10s will make a huge difference from 3.42. You just want to make sure that if you go to the track you don't run out of gear at the end..
But if its a 10-bolt, I wouldn't bother with a 4.10. Wait until you get a 12-bolt to go that low.
But if its a 10-bolt, I wouldn't bother with a 4.10. Wait until you get a 12-bolt to go that low.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 571
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Originally Posted by 1320FEVER
4.10s will make a huge difference from 3.42. You just want to make sure that if you go to the track you don't run out of gear at the end..
But if its a 10-bolt, I wouldn't bother with a 4.10. Wait until you get a 12-bolt to go that low.
But if its a 10-bolt, I wouldn't bother with a 4.10. Wait until you get a 12-bolt to go that low.
My other issue is making sure that when I shift into the next gear, I am not too far above my torque curve, would like the rpms to drop right when the torque is close to its highest point which is around 3.8-4krpm.
yes big difference especially when u get on it for the first time after the gear install. got mine done thursday and kicked it today for the first time all i can say is damn why did i wait. either way u go plan on breaking the stock rear sooner or later.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 53
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From: Pensacola, FL
My '98 h/c WS6 formula has 4.10 in the rear as well as a 12-bolt (approx 430 rwhp), and for a while when I would get up on it I had NO traction problems at all. I was running mild-tread Drag Radials (Goodyear, I think... I'll find out for sure and edit this later). But now, After a couple thousand miles on them, if I slip the clutch to quick, I get a nice little burn out then a lurch then some tire skip then I'm off... until about 2 seconds later when i have to shift into second which is even worse. 
Really I just need to be patient and slip the clutch a little more. I can't even imagine what it would be like without DRs tho. But it is possible to drive with higher power and 4.10s, though I'm probably gonna save up, buy me some good daily tires and just get a pair of wheels with slicks to put on whenever I head to the track.
Really I just need to be patient and slip the clutch a little more. I can't even imagine what it would be like without DRs tho. But it is possible to drive with higher power and 4.10s, though I'm probably gonna save up, buy me some good daily tires and just get a pair of wheels with slicks to put on whenever I head to the track. LS1 Tech Stories
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Originally Posted by whyte95ZRida
. I have an m6 with 4.10 and i still average around 20 mph on the highway pulling a lil over 2100 rpm at 70.
any gear calculator will tell you the same
I installed a moser 12 bolt with 4.10's and took 2-3 tenths off my quarter mile time. Traction becomes an issue on street tires though. I love being in the torque band all day long, and I have beat a lot of more powerful cars seemingly because of them. I love driving with them on the street too, I usually shift 1,3,5,6 or even 2,4,6. For the guy that was worried about top end, I have buried my speedo since the install.
Originally Posted by SilverSmoke
Ack! maybe I said it wrong, but when redlining each gear and shifting into the next gear, what rpm will it start at?