Got my 12 bolt in
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Got my 12 bolt in I have 2 problems
#1 I have vibration from around 60-70 mph... I had this problem before on my old aluminum driveshaft and my old 10 bolt with 3.42.
now I have a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft and a 3.73 moser 12 bolt.
So I dunno what that is, if its the driveshaft, then why are both doing so?
#2 Today I installed the 12 bolt and broke it in (not step by step) But I did this 3 times. drove on the jack for a good 5-6 miles and let it cool down 30 min ( maybe more) drove it a good 10-12 miles and let it cool down for over an hour. and drove it again fr a good 15 miles and let it cool down for an hour or so. I will probably make another 5-10 mile pass and let it cool for a few hours. and that should be just fine... My problem is, we filled the 12 bolt up with 4 quarts. It took all of it and wasnt even at the fill plug. so we had some more gear oil andprobably filled another .5 quarts. we were almost at the fill plug but not quite, but since thats all we had, we said its good enough.
My problem is when I drove it to school and I came back an hour later, I noticed I had some gear oul under the diff. I dont know where its coming from, but its definitely fresh gear oil and Im wondering why its spilling?
the fill plug is on tight, and the case came torqued down already. could it be that we overfilled it and its leaking because of that? If so, from where? why did it take over 4 quarts ( and many people said it just needs 2.5 quarts!)
WTF is happening, no one seems to know their ****!
Thanks for any help.
#1 I have vibration from around 60-70 mph... I had this problem before on my old aluminum driveshaft and my old 10 bolt with 3.42.
now I have a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft and a 3.73 moser 12 bolt.
So I dunno what that is, if its the driveshaft, then why are both doing so?
#2 Today I installed the 12 bolt and broke it in (not step by step) But I did this 3 times. drove on the jack for a good 5-6 miles and let it cool down 30 min ( maybe more) drove it a good 10-12 miles and let it cool down for over an hour. and drove it again fr a good 15 miles and let it cool down for an hour or so. I will probably make another 5-10 mile pass and let it cool for a few hours. and that should be just fine... My problem is, we filled the 12 bolt up with 4 quarts. It took all of it and wasnt even at the fill plug. so we had some more gear oil andprobably filled another .5 quarts. we were almost at the fill plug but not quite, but since thats all we had, we said its good enough.
My problem is when I drove it to school and I came back an hour later, I noticed I had some gear oul under the diff. I dont know where its coming from, but its definitely fresh gear oil and Im wondering why its spilling?
the fill plug is on tight, and the case came torqued down already. could it be that we overfilled it and its leaking because of that? If so, from where? why did it take over 4 quarts ( and many people said it just needs 2.5 quarts!)
WTF is happening, no one seems to know their ****!
Thanks for any help.
He means you overfilled it, and when you run it the fluid is leaking out through the vent. I agree that this is what must of happened.
I would suspect that the vibration is not from the new rear or the driveshaft, since you replaced both of the parts. What is your pinion angle set at? Do you have an adjustable torque arm? If it is the factory torque arm, make sure it is not bending, as in the photos shown here. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...php?service=58 Bob
I would suspect that the vibration is not from the new rear or the driveshaft, since you replaced both of the parts. What is your pinion angle set at? Do you have an adjustable torque arm? If it is the factory torque arm, make sure it is not bending, as in the photos shown here. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...php?service=58 Bob
Even though I can't see you taking my advice since I was wrong before...
Make sure the fill plug on the passenger side of the rear is tight, 9/16" allen head. When I first put my rear in I had a leak and found this to be loose. I assumed it was tight since it had been powdercoated over by Moser, but I was wrong. Once tightened no leaks have followed.
It sounds like you filled through the T/A cover and didn't bother with the actual fill plug so I mention this.
Make sure the fill plug on the passenger side of the rear is tight, 9/16" allen head. When I first put my rear in I had a leak and found this to be loose. I assumed it was tight since it had been powdercoated over by Moser, but I was wrong. Once tightened no leaks have followed.
It sounds like you filled through the T/A cover and didn't bother with the actual fill plug so I mention this.
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From: Pasadena, CA
we actually filled it through the fill hole on the back cover of the diff...we put in a little over 4 quarts and it still didnt start to leak out, it was pretty much full though if you stuck your pinky in it would get oil on it....
can anybody confirm how much oil it is actually suppossed to hold?
can anybody confirm how much oil it is actually suppossed to hold?
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Originally Posted by SUCK MY SS
oops thats me talkin up there^^^^ i guess i signed in w/ his SN w/o knowing?
so yeah can anyone confirm how much it takes?
so yeah can anyone confirm how much it takes?
providing the car is level. 
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Originally Posted by onebad82z
Fill through the hole in the T/A cover till it runs out the side hole in the rear..9/16" allen head on the passenger side. My bet is it will start running out at 2.5 quarts or so... providing the car is level.
providing the car is level.I also have another issue, I am getting wheel hop when I get on the throttle and as I mentioned before I have a vibration at 65 mph +/- a few.
why am I getting wheel hop and why vibration?
( I mentioned earlier the vibration was also before on the older driveshaft and 10 bolt as well)
The wheel hop may be from the older stock T/A I still have? IDK
Im gonna race today on M/T ET street radials and I hope I dont have this issue.
what should I launch the M/ts at
the Nittos p245/50 16 I was launching on a 10 bolt 3.42 Nittos set at 15 psi @ 4500 RPM and it was still bogging ( i have an aluminim flywheel). I heated them up pretty well.
so the P255/50 16 M/ts how should I launch it? in comparison to the Nittos? how much burning out, etc.
I just have boltons and the new 12 bolt is a 3.73. Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
He means you overfilled it, and when you run it the fluid is leaking out through the vent. I agree that this is what must of happened.
I would suspect that the vibration is not from the new rear or the driveshaft, since you replaced both of the parts. What is your pinion angle set at? Do you have an adjustable torque arm? If it is the factory torque arm, make sure it is not bending, as in the photos shown here. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...php?service=58 Bob
I would suspect that the vibration is not from the new rear or the driveshaft, since you replaced both of the parts. What is your pinion angle set at? Do you have an adjustable torque arm? If it is the factory torque arm, make sure it is not bending, as in the photos shown here. http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...php?service=58 Bob
I have a stock torque arm on ( for now) and it set at the way it went on. the car is also lowered with strano springs.
Originally Posted by LSGunZ28
1. the car is level... So I will just keep puking oil til its 2.5 quarts or more. maybe more, since its coming out due to pressure.
2.Bob, I thought everything came ready to go ( excluding the bearings and axles) what did I have to set the pinion angle at?
3.I also have another issue, I am getting wheel hop when I get on the throttle and as I mentioned before I have a vibration at 65 mph +/- a few.
why am I getting wheel hop and why vibration?
( I mentioned earlier the vibration was also before on the older driveshaft and 10 bolt as well)
The wheel hop may be from the older stock T/A I still have? IDK
I have a stock torque arm on ( for now) and it set at the way it went on. the car is also lowered with strano springs.
2.Bob, I thought everything came ready to go ( excluding the bearings and axles) what did I have to set the pinion angle at?
3.I also have another issue, I am getting wheel hop when I get on the throttle and as I mentioned before I have a vibration at 65 mph +/- a few.
why am I getting wheel hop and why vibration?
( I mentioned earlier the vibration was also before on the older driveshaft and 10 bolt as well)
The wheel hop may be from the older stock T/A I still have? IDK
I have a stock torque arm on ( for now) and it set at the way it went on. the car is also lowered with strano springs.
2.Pinion angle is only adjustable with an aftermarket torque arm, nothing to do with the rear.
3.These both are more than likely the result of lowering the car and not correcting the pinion angle with the addition of an aftermarket adjustable torque arm, and also having incorrect LCA angle since you also do not have LCARB's either. Lowering a 4th gen with the torque arm suspension really throws the geometery way out...and 3rdgens as in my case when I lowered my car years back. Not the fault of the stock TA in itself, but the un-adjustablility of it hurts you more with the car being lowered.
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Originally Posted by onebad82z
1.Probably.
2.Pinion angle is only adjustable with an aftermarket torque arm, nothing to do with the rear.
3.These both are more than likely the result of lowering the car and not correcting the pinion angle with the addition of an aftermarket adjustable torque arm, and also having incorrect LCA angle since you also do not have LCARB's either. Lowering a 4th gen with the torque arm suspension really throws the geometery way out...and 3rdgens as in my case when I lowered my car years back. Not the fault of the stock TA in itself, but the un-adjustablility of it hurts you more with the car being lowered.
2.Pinion angle is only adjustable with an aftermarket torque arm, nothing to do with the rear.
3.These both are more than likely the result of lowering the car and not correcting the pinion angle with the addition of an aftermarket adjustable torque arm, and also having incorrect LCA angle since you also do not have LCARB's either. Lowering a 4th gen with the torque arm suspension really throws the geometery way out...and 3rdgens as in my case when I lowered my car years back. Not the fault of the stock TA in itself, but the un-adjustablility of it hurts you more with the car being lowered.
Im still spilling oil. I may have a pinion seal leak.
Also I havent head wheelhop yet, it may have just been my old bald nittos ausing it.
I dont like the way the new M/Ts feet, they feel loose on the freeway.
also my vibration went away. It was bald spots in the front tires.