losaltos6

So iam removing my right axleshaft and well iam stuck halfway through the process, can someone help me? Well hear it is iam removing my axleshaft and the lockbolt wont come out due to it running out of space to pull out, now should i just force it out or wat, in the chilton book the pictuer has alot of space to remove but my dosent so iam stuck, i think i have to be pretty nice to the rearend and not do a hax job like everthing else i do. Well hear are the pics. Can someone tell me how to do this part.

And i also dont get this "Push the outer flanged end of the axleshaft in and remove ther c-lock from the inner end of the shaft" it say this in the chilton book but i don't understand.

jay_lt4

iTrader: (4)

dude spin your ring gear/ carrier down about 1/8 turn and the bolt will pull out,

then pull out the pin, then push your axle shaft in and take out the c-clip that holds your axle shaft inplace

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Well once you pull that bolt out, the lock pin (silver circle to the left of the bolt) will have to come out. Once that pin is out, push the axle in (or have someone do it for you) from the axle flange (the part with the wheel studs). THe pin keeps the axle from being push inward. once it is out, you can push either axle inward, then the C clip can be pulled out with your fingers (if it hasnt fallen out by this point). THis is why it is better to have someone else push the axle inward while you are watching the C Clip.

Once the cclip is out, you simply pull the axle out, and it should easily slide outward.

Now if you are having trouble pulling that bolt out, you may have to remove that bearing cap. I dont ever remember having to pull the cap off though... but its been a while since I did this.

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (8)

You don't have to remove the bolt. From the pic you posted its completely disengaged from the pin. If the pin will not easily slide out, reach behind the carrier and push it towards you.

losaltos6

thanks alot guys, but everthing seems to be one there hard or do i need to apply some serious man force to romove them.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I was working on my buddies DOdge Ram last night. Similar style rear. ONce the bolt is out/disengaged, rotating the carrier back and forth will help releive some tention on the pin. I also try pushing on one end with my fingers, if it doesnt budge I trying pushing on the other end of the pin. It will come out.

losaltos6

ok then iam gonna go try that now, thanks alot guys ill update this post in a hour or so.

Krab

iTrader: (28)

All you have to do is loosen the two bolts (15mm if I remember correctly) holding the main bearing cap on there (right side of the pic). That is what is keeping you from completely pulling out that bolt.

losaltos6

ok so ill just remoce the bering bolts and pull the little bolt out and then ill just pull the locking pin out. So iam guessing ill have to torque down those bolts when i need to reinstall everthing right..

losaltos6

ok iam tring but everthing is on there HARD, should it be in park or gear or wat man, i have a 4l60e automatic. Iam stumped, i have the lock bolt all the way but not completly out and even i wanted to turn the whole gear i couldent its all on there and iam trying to be extreamly careful, i dont want to break anything..

NoGamesLS1

iTrader: (16)

Is it reverse thread?

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

dude, put your trans in nuetral, turn your diff around till you have room to pull your retaining bolt out. you will have room to pull the bolt out near the lower cap bolt pad meets the round part of the cap, it wont just slide out, you will have to angle it some and pop it out. then rotate diff again to push out the diff shaft pin some. rotate to the other side of the pin and pull it out with some vise-grips, use a rag if you are worried about marring the pin. then rotate till the big "window" of the diff is facing you. push in each wheel and grab the little c-clip on each axle with a magnet, and pull the axle.

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

no it is not

losaltos6

YEHAAAAAA, so i did it guys thanks to your help, i put it in N and grabed a rag and put it over a socket wrench and tapped it a bit un till it started coming out and then i placed it back and pulled it out and just pushed in the axleshaft and slid the little c-clip and out goes the axle. But it dosent look bent???

So get this, i lost control and slamed my rear into a sidewalk sideways, when i got out my wheel was in pices and i had a bent wheel stud. so i ran home and got my stock wheel and replaced the wheel befoer the cops showed up and on the way home all i hear is my pads rub aginst my rotter depending on my speed and when i apllied pressure to the breaks i could feel a vibration and the nosie would go away. Then on top of that i hear a knocking sound too, i also feel my car swaying side to side when i go slow. iam sure i twisted something but i was for sure that i had a bent axleshaft. well ill post some pics in about 10mins guy.

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

i would check your stud flange, brake rotor, "track bars" behind the axle, and the other studs. pretty much anything else connected to the rear. and check that shaft pin for cracks (mine came apart in three peices while inside the diff due to damage from an earlier incident where i missed a shift at about 80mph and ripped my 4.56 gear up, locking the rear and causing me to slide forever on the interstate, coming to rest in the median). everything back there is pretty flimsy and easy to damage.

losaltos6

ok hears the pics of the axle and the pin had a little patch of scratchs about a inch long

sry for the qty, there from a digi cam.

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

it is tought to tell from those pix, but i would really give that stud flange a good look. maybe try standing the axle on its end on the studs and give it a look for it being out of whack and look for cracks around the flange area. see how the brake rotor lays on it. you might try taking it to a machine shop to see what they think. their tools are always better then the eye ball. you may want to ask them to magnaflux that area just to be sure it is crack free. and remember to check your shaft pin and the c-clip on the other axle for damage. its that damn small stuff that turns into big stuff when you least expect it.

LSXNV

iTrader: (1)

just noticed pic 4. lower/center in the pic. is that a crack? on the unmachined surface where the axle leads into the flange.

losaltos6

No just checked and its just a water mark or something like like because i was able rub it off. Umm iam stumped, **** this sucks maybe i should just take it to a shop and have them tell me whats wrong and then ill just fix it if its not to hard but for the time being iam just gonna put everthing back in and check all the other stuff you guys suggested and then if everthing looks ok iam just gonna go straight to the Autoshop...

losaltos6

you guys think i could put the left axleshaft in the right and the right on the left to see if the nose moves over to the left instead of the right or is this not possible.