Gears & Axles Driveshafts | Rearends | Differentials | Gears | 12 Bolt | 9 Inch | Dana
View Poll Results: Are you hapy with your dana 60?
Yes am happy with my dana 60.
11
91.67%
No not happy due to noise,breakage or quality,etc.
1
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Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

Do you like your dana 60?

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Old 11-11-2007, 08:57 PM
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Default Strange S60

Here's a link from their website to order the S60.

What size are the gears in the S60 ?

http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...earendAD1.html

Think I'll start saving my pocket change for one.
Old 11-17-2007, 08:24 PM
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Can anyone give me their opinion on how a 60 would work in a 2800 lb car? I am restoring a 66 Nova, and I am going to put an LS1 into it. The car will have a 4 link rear from TCI in it, and I REALLY WANT to put a 60 in it. Nothing wrong with the 9", but it's a crazy personal preference that I have.... my car must have a differential cover on it - the 9" just look too darn plain for me. I love the look of a 12 bolt or Dana aluminum cover back there, I think it really makes the car look mean.

Soooooo, I'm torn between a 12 bolt and Dana 60. 99% of me says go with the 60, but I've heard SO many different stories about the extra weight, that I don't want the car to be really annoying to drive. It will probably see a drag strip one time in its life, have at most 450 RWHP, 4L60E, and mostly be driven for cruise nights, shows, weekend rides, and yes, some pavement pounding too.

As far as the different weight stories I've heard, the two main ones are this:

1. The 60 is a heavy, heavy dog. The unsprung weight makes the car a pain to enjoy.

2. Coming from DTS, Moser, and Strange - The Dana only weighs 20lbs more than a 12 bolt, and uses less power than a 9".

If number 2 is true, then I'm 100% Dana 60. If the 12 bolt turns out to be much lighter, then I'm still stuck in my decision. I do belive that the Dana takes more power to turn than a 12 bolt.

Has anyone seen ANY trustworthy test reports on Dynos where they took a car, swapped in/out a 12 bolt, 9", and Dana 60 without altering anything else, and dynoed them and also weighed them? Not a bad idea for a Chevy Hi-Performance test.
Old 11-28-2007, 08:19 PM
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The 60 is not any heavier than a 9" and maybe 15 or so more than a 12 bolt and I personally believe thats because the axles are 35spline.


I would and did go with the s60 even if it were 50 lbs heavier. It has a 9.75" ring gear as opposed to the 9" which has a 9"(obviously)ring gear.

The strength over a 12 bolt is a no brainer in my opinion.
I hear alot of people say the s60 is to heavy but I look at it this way 50lbs = .05 ET, I will gladly give that up for the piece of mind that I'm not going to ever have to replace this rearend.
Doug
Old 11-28-2007, 09:11 PM
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Ive got one in my Big Block 64 vert SS Chevelle from DTS and it works awesome. When I took out my 10 bolt and compared it to the Dana I was like "MOTHER F" seems to weigh a ton but the car already weighed 4,600 lb. Awesome set-up though.
Old 11-28-2007, 09:20 PM
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My S-60 Blew Up On Install But Strange Had It Rebuilt And So Far Its Been Good (100 Miles)

When I Get My Car Back Ill Change The Break In Fluid And Go Try And Lock It Up
Old 11-28-2007, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Jpr5690
My S-60 Blew Up On Install But Strange Had It Rebuilt And So Far Its Been Good (100 Miles)

When I Get My Car Back Ill Change The Break In Fluid And Go Try And Lock It Up
How the hell?
Doug
Old 11-29-2007, 09:29 AM
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Someone Was Sleepng On The Assembly Line.. It Was Just Put Together Wrong.... I Dont Think My Story Is A Testment For Or Against A Dana Durability More Just A Mistake By Strange
Old 11-29-2007, 10:29 AM
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I heard some people saying that there are some clearance issues under the car with the S60. Is that true ? Did any of you have to modify the drive shaft tunnel or floor boards ?

During the winter here I am going to get a rear end but I am not sure which, 12 bolt or S60. Currently I am leaning torwards the 12 bolt.

My car is an A4 car with a 4000 stall and I race in the NMCA series; also the car is going to remain full weight. I don't plan on going any faster than a 10.0 cause I don't wanna have to put a 10 point in the car, I am ok with a 6 point. I really don't want a 9 inch, I don't like the idea of having anything with the Blue oval on my car.
Old 11-29-2007, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LilSlo1
I heard some people saying that there are some clearance issues under the car with the S60. Is that true ? Did any of you have to modify the drive shaft tunnel or floor boards ?

During the winter here I am going to get a rear end but I am not sure which, 12 bolt or S60. Currently I am leaning torwards the 12 bolt.

My car is an A4 car with a 4000 stall and I race in the NMCA series; also the car is going to remain full weight. I don't plan on going any faster than a 10.0 cause I don't wanna have to put a 10 point in the car, I am ok with a 6 point. I really don't want a 9 inch, I don't like the idea of having anything with the Blue oval on my car.
A 12 bolt will be fine but If you look around you can find a 9" (stronger) for the same and less.A 9" is not blue oval it is an aftermarket rear using a design by ford.
I am one of the bigest haters when it comes to fords but dont cut your nose off to spite your face. A 9" is MUCH stronger and better designed than a 12 bolt. It is even better designed than an s60 just not as strong.
If you want a rear for your A4 why not just get the 9" and never have to worry again no matter how much you throw at it later.
Doug
Old 11-29-2007, 03:44 PM
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If I was planning on making this car a single digit car, I'd definatley go with the 9 inch or the S60 for sure. But I don't plan on anything faster then a 10.0. If I want to go faster I'll get a different Chassis. I figured with the 12 bolt it is obviously smaller than the 9" or S60, less weight, and less rotating weight.

I change my mind more than a woman when it comes to what to put in my car.

Thanks for the input 98catfish.
Old 12-08-2007, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by LilSlo1
I heard some people saying that there are some clearance issues under the car with the S60. Is that true ? Did any of you have to modify the drive shaft tunnel or floor boards ?
.

No clearance issues.

I have the heater hose mod (lowered in the rear 1/2 to 3/4) and run the adj. UMI T/A w/ drive shaft loop. I've only cut 1.64 60's but I've never bottomed out. Everything looks good.

Direct bolt in ... Couldn't ask for an easier install!

Mine does whine between 40 and 50mph but Strange has sent my mech a new set of gears and install kit to make that right.
Old 12-08-2007, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by junior28570
No clearance issues.

I have the heater hose mod (lowered in the rear 1/2 to 3/4) and run the adj. UMI T/A w/ drive shaft loop. I've only cut 1.64 60's but I've never bottomed out. Everything looks good.

Direct bolt in ... Couldn't ask for an easier install!

Mine does whine between 40 and 50mph but Strange has sent my mech a new set of gears and install kit to make that right.

What about brakes ? I know our stock brakes and brackets will bolt right up to a Strange 12 Bolt. Is that the same for the Dana or do you have to buy all after market brakes ?

Sorry, MY99TA if I stoled your thread.
Old 12-08-2007, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by LilSlo1
What about brakes ? I know our stock brakes and brackets will bolt right up to a Strange 12 Bolt. Is that the same for the Dana or do you have to buy all after market brakes ?

Sorry, MY99TA if I stoled your thread.
Stock brakes will bolt up just fine.
Old 12-08-2007, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
Stock brakes will bolt up just fine.
Exactly!

The only thing that needs adjusting is the hard brake line .. but that's because it's pre-bent to fit a 10 bolt and the Dana is much larger. Just a little hand bending to fit it around the larger hog-head and you're done!
Old 12-09-2007, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SmokedOutZ28
Stock brakes will bolt up just fine.
Excellent !

I'm not worried about the brake lines, I'd have no problem if I had to make new lines, I was just worried about the rest of the brake assembly.

Thanks guys.
Old 12-09-2007, 08:09 PM
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Default Dana 60 question

Basicly, bolt it in and go to sleep. It is very heavy, but it is in the right place over the rear wheels. Noise depends what gears you run. Most noise falls between 3.73 and 4.56. New Motive performance gears if properly set-up will be fairly quiet as well as Strange Pro-Line gears. Spicer gears are noisey. The noise ecos from the panhard bar and trac bar through the quarter panel supports, worse in a convertible. PS, use rubber or eurothane with your suspension choises. Racecars do not matter because they are loud. I am using the True-trac and it is great. It is supposed to handle 1100 HP. If I had to do this again, I would put in a 12 bolt. It has the best power to weight ratio and has very good strength when properly built. The Dana is next, but is very heavy especially when you add heavy suspension which usually goes with any rearend upgrade. The 9" has the most drag due to it's ring to pinion location, but has by far the most gear choices. The reason I would put in a 12 bolt is weight. A properly set up will handle about 1000 HP with an auto trans. About 900 HP with a stick. Most people have a budget and run well under 1000 HP and too many people are misinformed about 12 bolts. Also, most businesses charge about $200.00 more for a 12 bolt vs a Dana 60. I noticed .3 tenths loss in times with the Dana60. The 12 bolt is almost .1 tenth. I've owned and operated my shop for 20 of my 32 years in the business. I've seen alot of mistakes made because someone either doesn't have the money and hires a buddy or tries this themselves or trusts a shop without differential experience. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!! This is an art and proper tools are a must. Rear differentials take a beating so do it right the first time. If money is an issue, wait and save your money for later. If you have any questions before you start, call for free advice toll-free 877-866-9336, 9:00-6:00 M-F. I love and live this stuff. Good luck.



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