12 bolt studs are short
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From: Chattanooga,TN
When I was putting my wheels back on the car I noticed that my wheel studs didn't go through my lug nuts as far as my stock wheel studs. It was a little harder to thread the lug nuts on the stud because of it.
Teching In
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studs Length does not make a stud stronger. The type of material and the size (diameter) does. The reason for long studs is because of some of the race wheel on the aftermarket require the long studs to mount the rims correctly ...Like weld they have almost 2" center thick mounting plate sandwiched between the aluminum. It is fot the streght of the rim and keeps the rim light weld untra lites... That is how they do it. Actually th eshorter you make something the less likely it is to sheer off and or twist.
Remember back in elementary school / middle school... Cool guys took pencils and put them between there finger and slammed their hand down on the table to see how small a length pencil you could snap with out being in too much pain... well the smaller the pencil the harder it was to snap it or you could not at all. Same concept with shortening axles etc. BUT again the material and diameter of the axle and or wheel stud etc. plays a larger roll in strength always. Also in the rule books for faster classes it is required to see the stud protrude past the nut. Ease of inspection. for measuring diameter etc.
If the stud is flush with the outer flat edge of the nuts your cool. less and think about getting longer ones. Does your car use Disc brake set-up? have you installed it from another car if you do? Jim
Remember back in elementary school / middle school... Cool guys took pencils and put them between there finger and slammed their hand down on the table to see how small a length pencil you could snap with out being in too much pain... well the smaller the pencil the harder it was to snap it or you could not at all. Same concept with shortening axles etc. BUT again the material and diameter of the axle and or wheel stud etc. plays a larger roll in strength always. Also in the rule books for faster classes it is required to see the stud protrude past the nut. Ease of inspection. for measuring diameter etc.
If the stud is flush with the outer flat edge of the nuts your cool. less and think about getting longer ones. Does your car use Disc brake set-up? have you installed it from another car if you do? Jim
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Teching In
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rear So the rear you have now was not an original disc rear? That would be your answer then. The disc brake rear axles all have longer studs for this very reason of the thickness of the disc rotor material compared to the thin drun mounting material . If they were both disc then I am still stumped. I would not over worry it. they are easy to replace. Jim
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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From: Chattanooga,TN
The rear end is from Moser that is made to go in a forth gen. All I had to do was swap my backing plates from my old rear to the new one. My choices for wheel studs was stock length or 3" and I didn't want the studs sticking out from my rims.
Yes, the Moser 12-bolt studs are a little shorter than stock. You should still have enough to get plenty of threads, though. Remember, the lug holes on the wheels are countersunk, and the acorns are tapered, so there isn't as big a gap there as you might think. The gap won't be any different for 17x11 rims, but the wheel will likely be heavier.
If you are really concerned, you can probably replace the Moser studs with ARP.
-Mike
If you are really concerned, you can probably replace the Moser studs with ARP.
-Mike
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From: Chattanooga,TN
Originally Posted by chupr0kabra
Trust me, when I first got mine, I was worried too. Especially because I was running 17x11" rear wheels at the time. So far, I haven't had any problems, though.
-Mike
-Mike
The biggest problem was the rubbing. After hammering in the inner fenders (A LOT) and rolling the fender lips, the tires STILL rubbed the inner fender wells often. Any time I went over a large bump, made a sharp turn, or went into my driveway (which is a sharp turn WITH a bump), it scraped. I got tired of gritting my teeth over every bump. After installing the 12-bolt, it seemed to get worse again.
Also, my ZR1's were heavy. How heavy? Well, I dyno'd 333rwhp with the stock 16" rims. After making no other modifications to the car aside from changing the wheels and tires, I dyno'd 320rwhp. Add the unsprung weight of a 12-bolt, and my car started handling very rough.
I've always liked Fikse FM/5's. The right deal came along on a set of four 17x9.5" FM/5's, and I jumped on it. Lighter, no more rubbing, and (IMO) they look better.
-Mike
Also, my ZR1's were heavy. How heavy? Well, I dyno'd 333rwhp with the stock 16" rims. After making no other modifications to the car aside from changing the wheels and tires, I dyno'd 320rwhp. Add the unsprung weight of a 12-bolt, and my car started handling very rough.
I've always liked Fikse FM/5's. The right deal came along on a set of four 17x9.5" FM/5's, and I jumped on it. Lighter, no more rubbing, and (IMO) they look better.
-Mike
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From: Chattanooga,TN
Yeah I see what you're saying. I really don't want to beat the hell out of my car to get the wheel to fit. How in the hell do people get 335s up under their cars? I would like to get some FM5s for my car but i can't afford the damn things. They do look realy nice though.