If I have the stock 10 bolt with a cam headers, and possibly making 360-400 rwhp... what are the odds that I will break the rearend. I do not plan on running it at the track really, but more so for on the street. It is my daily driver. I will not be looking for a bunch of street races so it will not see to many hard launches. It will be driven responsibly, with the occasional dicking around.

Any feedback would be great!!!

 

Thats a big gap in HP. But if its an auto you will probably be fine. Manual and its really risky. Also depends on what tires your running. If you are running a slick then it is more likely to break. If your on an all season tire then theres nothing to worry about.

<small>[ November 10, 2002, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: sited12 ]</small>

 

I would be running just a zr rated tire. It is an M6. The gap in the horsepower is b/c I might do heads... stage 1 or 2.

 

Depends on the clutch, tire, the road grip, and how you drive. Put a twin disk clutch in, go out and slam 2nd as hard as you can on a grippy road, and your spider gears in the rear diff will crunch. You could do that with 350hp if you tried.

Or, drive it nice, and the rear will last forever at 500hp.

 

it wont last.
enless you granny shift

 

It won't last? Guys, he's talking about running the car on REGULAR radial tires and not even at the track.

See...

"I will not be looking for a bunch of street races so it will not see to many hard launches. It will be driven responsibly, with the occasional dicking around."

It'll be fine driving it on the street with regular radial tires...even if you drive it fairly hard everyday. But, put a set of drag radials or slicks on it, take it to the track, drop the clutch at high rpms and say goodby to the rearend.

BTW, I'm moving this to the Drivetrain section... <img border="0" alt="[Burnout]" title="" src="graemlins/burnout.gif" />

 

28.33% chance of breaking. That is extremely scientific. I've taken over 35 variables into account to come up with that number. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

J/k,

In all honesty, you're probably fine with the stock unit. I've got over 400rwhp and 10-15 track sessions with no issues on mine (since the H/C). Then again, I also have the money for a 12-bolt saved and earmarked....I'm just waiting for mine to break. The stock unit isn't as weak as people try to make you believe. I'd be curious to know how many people here with 12 bolts got them because they broke their 10 bolts and how many just bought them because they "thought" their 10 bolt was going to break. I'm sure that several of the ~400rwhp cars that broke rears were dumping at high rpms on slicks...doesn't sound like you're going to do that. "Normal driving with the occasional dicking around" has a low probability of breaking a 10-bolt.

 

Faast has it right,Though Auburn is much weaker than Zexel Torsen posi unit. I have many 3500 to 4000 rpm launches on HoosierPro Dot slicks with 3550lbs Z28 with no problems or noises from Zexel rear. Drag racing is about just enough reliability so weight and drag are minimal. Im staying with light fast stock rear until i have to go Heavy Duty to keep things together. T/A cover is wise mod for stock rears also. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

 

I make ~370rwhp w/ cam & headers.
m6 car
stock rear end, mcleod single disk
Zrated radials

84k miles, posi works fine, and rear works well still.

I don't think you'll have any issues.