Moser 9" problems
Moser 9" problems Since I got the 9" I've been having nothing but problems. First problem was a squeeking noise and found out it was the u-joints on the drive shaft. replaced them and greased them and they were fine. Another problem was the bad shaking which I still have and can't seem to get rid of. I bought a new PST 3.5" aluminum driveshaft and a BMR adjustable torque arm. Adjusted it more times than I'd like to admit and can't get rid of the shaking. The u-joints on the driveshaft keep spitting the grease all over the underneath of my car (i'm assuming it's from the shaking). I also recently developed squeeking when I turn slowly. I think the u-joints are going bad already but the squeeking I get now isn't the same as when the u-joints were bad last time.
Well this wont help all your problems but I would stay away from greasable U joints. In my Off Road experience I've broken more U joints then I can remember because they were greasable I would good the non greasable U joints because there stronger.
Contacted Moser and a local driveline shop. Moser said it was my driveshaft length and the driveline shop said I did what I could to try fixing it. I guess they didn't want to mess with it. As far as the u-joints, I noticed they don't have a fitting where you would put a grease gun connection on, so I guess they're non-greasable.
Contacted Moser and a local driveline shop. Moser said it was my driveshaft length and the driveline shop said I did what I could to try fixing it. I guess they didn't want to mess with it. As far as the u-joints, I noticed they don't have a fitting where you would put a grease gun connection on, so I guess they're non-greasable.
I installed everything but was giving up which was why I called the driveline shop because maybe I was missing something. The length doesn't sound correct to me either. I did manage to get the angle right and there was very minimal shaking but a day later the shaking was back.
You could narrow it down to what it is one way or the other by installing your stock drive shaft and seeing if that fixes the problem. From what I understand moser has the best customer service... and by "best" I actually mean worst. Try that and if that doesnt fix it then you have just cornered moser.
At this point its not the U joint, its not the drive shaft, its prolly not the pinion angle... that only leaves the rear.
At this point its not the U joint, its not the drive shaft, its prolly not the pinion angle... that only leaves the rear.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Mosers lack of customer service has to be from people like us that NEED their product. If you and one other manufacturer made rear ends equally crappy then why change?
One thing you might want to check... make sure that the axle tubes are perfectly in line. Moser actually has a certain "tollerence" as to how many degrees they can be off (a problem stemming from the welding of the axle tubes to the center part). That can cause the tires to not be perfectly parallel... You figure the rest out.
Yes Moser says that a certain amount of that is normal and they wont warranty that. Someone needs to sue the hell out of them for selling crappy stuff at premium prices.
One thing you might want to check... make sure that the axle tubes are perfectly in line. Moser actually has a certain "tollerence" as to how many degrees they can be off (a problem stemming from the welding of the axle tubes to the center part). That can cause the tires to not be perfectly parallel... You figure the rest out.
Yes Moser says that a certain amount of that is normal and they wont warranty that. Someone needs to sue the hell out of them for selling crappy stuff at premium prices.
PST uses U Joints that don't have grease zerks, and they are guaranteed for 10 years. Bob
I highly doubt the vibration is in the Moser rear, we've never had one that vibrated yet. My first guess is that the torque arm is still not set for the correct pinion angle. I know you've been all over the place with this. I'd check as well to make sure the rear is not contacting the sheetmetal anywhere under the car, and this can cause a vibration. Bob
From BMR's website
Setting pinion angle:
Support vehicle under rear axle to load the suspension for pinion
angle adjustment. Once suspension is loaded, attach the provided
angle finder on the bottom of the rear end torque arm mounting plate
and record the reading. Now place the angle finder on the driveshaft
and record the reading. Subtract one angle from the other, this is
your pinion angle. This angle is considered negative when the pinion points downward. It is best to start
with 0 degrees pinion angle and adjust accordingly based on the cars launch characteristics and parts
combination. As a rule of thumb, most automatics typically respond best to a -1 to -2 degree pinion
angle while manual equipped cars respond best to a -2 to -3 degree pinion angle.
From BMR's website
Setting pinion angle:
Support vehicle under rear axle to load the suspension for pinion
angle adjustment. Once suspension is loaded, attach the provided
angle finder on the bottom of the rear end torque arm mounting plate
and record the reading. Now place the angle finder on the driveshaft
and record the reading. Subtract one angle from the other, this is
your pinion angle. This angle is considered negative when the pinion points downward. It is best to start
with 0 degrees pinion angle and adjust accordingly based on the cars launch characteristics and parts
combination. As a rule of thumb, most automatics typically respond best to a -1 to -2 degree pinion
angle while manual equipped cars respond best to a -2 to -3 degree pinion angle.
I'm going to keep messing with the pinion angle. What would be causing the squeeking while turning. It is only during slow turns like when I pull into a parking spot
PHB and LCAs are stock. The tires aren't rubbing at all. Could it be my sway bar? I'm using 3" muffler clips to attach the sway bar. The sway bar isn't exactly on like the stock fit was. The bushings are pulled towards the rear end and the sway bar is angled weird. The bushings have a lot more stress on them from the angle they're at as opposed where they were (straight up and down) to when the stock rear end was in.
Sorry Bob I didnt mean to strait up talk smack against Mosers products. It just seems like from what I have heard their customer service is less than desireable. The LS1tech sponsors always have outstanding customer service and I know that you guys take every chance to help us out. There are plenty of satisfied customers, and I'd venture to say that more satisfied customers never talk about how awesome their product is versus how the angry customers get on the soap box.
Sorry to hijack the thread!
Sorry to hijack the thread!
FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,123
Likes: 3
From: D-F/W
I highly doubt the vibration is in the Moser rear, we've never had one that vibrated yet. My first guess is that the torque arm is still not set for the correct pinion angle. I know you've been all over the place with this. I'd check as well to make sure the rear is not contacting the sheetmetal anywhere under the car, and this can cause a vibration. Bob
From BMR's website
Setting pinion angle:
Support vehicle under rear axle to load the suspension for pinion
angle adjustment. Once suspension is loaded, attach the provided
angle finder on the bottom of the rear end torque arm mounting plate
and record the reading. Now place the angle finder on the driveshaft
and record the reading. Subtract one angle from the other, this is
your pinion angle. This angle is considered negative when the pinion points downward. It is best to start
with 0 degrees pinion angle and adjust accordingly based on the cars launch characteristics and parts
combination. As a rule of thumb, most automatics typically respond best to a -1 to -2 degree pinion
angle while manual equipped cars respond best to a -2 to -3 degree pinion angle.
From BMR's website
Setting pinion angle:
Support vehicle under rear axle to load the suspension for pinion
angle adjustment. Once suspension is loaded, attach the provided
angle finder on the bottom of the rear end torque arm mounting plate
and record the reading. Now place the angle finder on the driveshaft
and record the reading. Subtract one angle from the other, this is
your pinion angle. This angle is considered negative when the pinion points downward. It is best to start
with 0 degrees pinion angle and adjust accordingly based on the cars launch characteristics and parts
combination. As a rule of thumb, most automatics typically respond best to a -1 to -2 degree pinion
angle while manual equipped cars respond best to a -2 to -3 degree pinion angle.
We have found the parking brake shoes to cause squeeking noises when turning in the past ??!!?? Have you removed the rear wheels and looked for any witness marks on the brake hardware?
g
