Understanding rearends
Understanding rearends Ok, I want to understand everything before i tackle my differential swap.
I'm swapping a stock auburn from my 98 for a stock torsen from an 01. I planned (and hope) i can just reuse the original shims/bearings, and not have to realign anything......
Shims--- do they "ONLY" space the carrier left to right to adjust solely backlash? (my understanding of backlash is how close the ring/pinion are meshed to each other). Or is there another reason for changing shims?
Pinion depth---- In my case, I dont see how it will change, I plan on using the same bearings, and I wont be touching the pinion..... True or False... if False- why?
Dial Indicator--- i dont have one, is it worth investing in? I've never used one before, and personally, I dont think i need one for just swapping diffs--- True or False
Using a vise to put everything back in the diff housing---- Is it necessary? can I just hold everythign together and carefully use a deadblow hammer to pound the diff/bearings/shims into place? how much tougher am i making it?
Is there anything else I need to know? i REALLY appreciate all the help (I hope there will be some). Financially, i really cant pay someone to do this for me!
Miki
I'm swapping a stock auburn from my 98 for a stock torsen from an 01. I planned (and hope) i can just reuse the original shims/bearings, and not have to realign anything......
Shims--- do they "ONLY" space the carrier left to right to adjust solely backlash? (my understanding of backlash is how close the ring/pinion are meshed to each other). Or is there another reason for changing shims?
Pinion depth---- In my case, I dont see how it will change, I plan on using the same bearings, and I wont be touching the pinion..... True or False... if False- why?
Dial Indicator--- i dont have one, is it worth investing in? I've never used one before, and personally, I dont think i need one for just swapping diffs--- True or False
Using a vise to put everything back in the diff housing---- Is it necessary? can I just hold everythign together and carefully use a deadblow hammer to pound the diff/bearings/shims into place? how much tougher am i making it?
Is there anything else I need to know? i REALLY appreciate all the help (I hope there will be some). Financially, i really cant pay someone to do this for me!
Miki
Re: Understanding rearends
Financially, i really cant pay someone to do this for me!
Anyway, second question.
Why are you changing the differential? Is your current one worn out or broken. Is it noisy? I just thought I'd ask, in case there is a way that someone here can help you fix the current differential. These are just my thoughts....
To answer some other questions.
Shims will help set backlash, you are correct.
The pinion will be untouched and should not need moved at all.
I do suggest a dial indicator to verify your backlash settings, Sears sells an inexpensive one (about $30).
Good luck!
Re: Understanding rearends THANKS!
I now have someone willing to help me that has done the 7.5" rearend many times. So I do feel alot better about it, and hopefully i can learn quite a bit while doing it so i dont have to bug him for it in the future.
My current auburn is worn out, spins the inside wheel pretty bad, not that great for autocrossing (although I did win CP yesterday with about 7 other drivers in the class also. I'm running as little gm additive as possible right now to keep it from making all kinds of noise. It also seems to abruptly lock/unlock. I dont like that. I also dont have the cash for a t2r (not even close actually), so i figure i'll settle for the stock torsen, which i got a used one for pretty cheap.
Are the stock auburns rebuildable? Not sure if i even want to, i want a smoother engaging/disengaging diff (which i THINK the torsen is).
I now have someone willing to help me that has done the 7.5" rearend many times. So I do feel alot better about it, and hopefully i can learn quite a bit while doing it so i dont have to bug him for it in the future.
My current auburn is worn out, spins the inside wheel pretty bad, not that great for autocrossing (although I did win CP yesterday with about 7 other drivers in the class also. I'm running as little gm additive as possible right now to keep it from making all kinds of noise. It also seems to abruptly lock/unlock. I dont like that. I also dont have the cash for a t2r (not even close actually), so i figure i'll settle for the stock torsen, which i got a used one for pretty cheap.
Are the stock auburns rebuildable? Not sure if i even want to, i want a smoother engaging/disengaging diff (which i THINK the torsen is).
Re: Understanding rearends I'm autocrossing on a stock torsen and hate it. It tries to accelerate the inside wheel in a corner and I have a bad push under power or I'm spinning the inside wheel. I was thinking of switching to an Auburn for that reason. But, I guess a good Torsen beats a worn out Auburn. The Torsen has no clutches to wear out and will work until it breaks. Let me know what you think after you run an event with it (I can't use the throttle to swing the rear end in tight corners, it just goes straight). There are a few pics of my Z at the last autocross on my website....
Good luck (and glad you got help),
Kevin
Good luck (and glad you got help),
Kevin
Re: Understanding rearends thanks, I figured the torsen would be better for sure (for autocrossing). i definetely dont want another auburn just so i can wear it out again.
damnit, maybe i need to drive a car with the torsen, and see if its worth the upgrade to the t2r? hate to spend the money, and noone is EVER selling them in the for sale ads.
damnit, maybe i need to drive a car with the torsen, and see if its worth the upgrade to the t2r? hate to spend the money, and noone is EVER selling them in the for sale ads.
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Re: Understanding rearends OK IMHO, it is a total waste to put any money at all into the stock rear end; it's a weak POS. Just save up for a 12 bolt or a 9 inch and you will be much happier. Then you can order that with a good differential; I got a TracLoc in my 9 inch and it has worked very well for both cornering and straight line performance.
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Verdad Gallardo Re: Understanding rearends I dont really know anything about the TracLoc, but the T2r really is the sh*t when it comes to roadracing and autocross.
the stock 10 bolt is really good enough for me, sure I worry about it, but i dont want more weight, and I dont want to spend over 2 grand for more weight, and an inferior choice of differentials for the type of drivign I do.
fow what its worth, the 10 bolt seems to hold up GREAT for autocross and roadracing. Yes I completely understand that dragracing with sticky tires is out.
the stock 10 bolt is really good enough for me, sure I worry about it, but i dont want more weight, and I dont want to spend over 2 grand for more weight, and an inferior choice of differentials for the type of drivign I do.
fow what its worth, the 10 bolt seems to hold up GREAT for autocross and roadracing. Yes I completely understand that dragracing with sticky tires is out.
Re: Understanding rearends I debated the "12 bolt thing" as well. Problem is I think it will affect the class the car is placed in (not that I'm in any kind of stock class anyway). Once I grenade this one (I don't drag race), I'll do something stronger. Probably look into a T2R for now as well.
Bigshoe....there is an autocross this weekend, come on down, you can see how one acts.
Kevin
Bigshoe....there is an autocross this weekend, come on down, you can see how one acts.
Kevin
Re: Understanding rearends trackbird and bigshoe,
I may have found the best of both worlds. They make a T2R for Mustang's that fits in the 8.8 inch rear end. Of course I too am concerned with what I'll do when my rear end goes ( 3:42's with T2R in a 10-bolt now, 420+ RWHP ) and have seriously been looking at the 8.8 inch rearend. Food for thought.
I may have found the best of both worlds. They make a T2R for Mustang's that fits in the 8.8 inch rear end. Of course I too am concerned with what I'll do when my rear end goes ( 3:42's with T2R in a 10-bolt now, 420+ RWHP ) and have seriously been looking at the 8.8 inch rearend. Food for thought.
Re: Understanding rearends Yea, my friend is considering that one for his NASA American Iron car (92 Mustang LX notchback) that we have been working on. I didn't know that it exsisted until a few weeks ago. If I could get a 8.8 done, I'd consider that as a swap (instead of a 12 bolt)....I've seen it done...but I don't feel like fabricating rear end parts (for TCS, ABS, etc). If someone starts making one....I'm interested....
Re: Understanding rearends trackbird, what club do you autocross with? and where do they do it?
I'm in cleveland, so its probably a 2 hr drive, I also am busy this particular weekend, but i may go down one of these days. I've autocrossed with the MOSCC in mansfield a few times, they are very laidback!
Do you ever make it up here to any of the akron autocrosses? There is a pretty good mix of fbodies with the ASCC.
Miki
I'm in cleveland, so its probably a 2 hr drive, I also am busy this particular weekend, but i may go down one of these days. I've autocrossed with the MOSCC in mansfield a few times, they are very laidback!
Do you ever make it up here to any of the akron autocrosses? There is a pretty good mix of fbodies with the ASCC.
Miki
Re: Understanding rearends www.ovr-scca.org
We usually run at the Ohio State University parking lot on Rt 315. You can see the course from the road. The schedule is on the website.
We usually run at the Ohio State University parking lot on Rt 315. You can see the course from the road. The schedule is on the website.