LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

Your right, if it was improperly set up. Im just saying that me my self would not have taken it apart. But now knowing that theres no warranty it is a good thing to do if you know what to look for.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Yeah, I can tell you I painted my housing up real nice (epoxy primer and flat single stage urethane) before realizing that bolting on the sway bar brackets with U-bolts was a cheesy way to do it, especially for a car that will eventually 60' in the 1.45 range. The right way is tigging them on. Hindsight. I am also now installing a drain plug which should be standard IMO. Do it right or don't do it at all..........don't understand some of these companies either.

Let me add, this wasn't a faint whine, this SOB howled! and that above statement is ludicrous and misleading to those who don't know better. If you don't know what you are looking at in the pics attached in my first post - they tell all. BTW, talk with anyone setting gears up for a living (not someone selling you product), noise is not common on a NEW set-up with a street gear, plain and simple. Now, if it is a soft race gear with a high HP race set-up it maybe a little different story and shouldn't be street drove anyway.

bigsticksupra

iTrader: (3)

I bought my Moser 9" 4.11 truetrac from Bob@EPP and it is dead silent. Maybe a slight whine in fifth and sixth but its negligible (probably noise transfered from the rod end joints and chassis mounted torque arm). Very happy with my purchase and i don't worry about driving the car hard at the track wondering if the rear will hold

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

**** (lol)

I may have to agree with part of your statement that I should have checked the work up front, in a hurry I guess + figured i paid for a Top Notch rear end company to do my set-up so it ought to be spot on. Lesson learned.

Not sure I really follow your last statment....... I think most people who buy Moser complete rear ends are doing it for that very reason, to get something that is supposed to be Right and ready to install otherwise they would just order individual pieces, which would be my recommendation if buying from them and have someone local you know knows what they are doing set them up. That way you can take the car to them if there is a problem and they can do all the labor plus fix the problem. Just my opinion.....

3fingas

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, it should be like that, for sure. But goin fast costs money, in some cases lots of money, and some things need more attention then others. Thats the difference between those who think **** out, and those who are shootin from the hip. Fact of the matter is with rearends, you always have to dble check, and if that **** whines, stop and do not drive on it, take the TM out & correct that ****. Is it right that moser fucked up? No! Should they give him new gears? YES! Will they? Probably not. Fact is, most of moser's **** is goin fast..

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

O.K. I should let this die but I guess I am just a little urk'd about the whole situation still.

#1 - this is a street car, not a race car - 11.50's daily driver type, there is a difference - hence the true-trac, 31 spline axles, and ABS/traction control. No race car here. To me this not fast, 11.50's is just a quick street car and this type of power should not even tax a properly built and set-up aftermarket Ford 9".

#2 - "Going fast cost money" LOL that's funny ****! Been there, done that, could write a book. Been 7.60's on 10.5's @ 3200lbs back in 2001. BTW, most 'real' race car rear ends are noisy, most just can't hear them - they use soft Pro gears to keep from grenading when you hit them with BIG HP on a sticky surface with sticky tires, and usually the gear set-up will favor the toe a bit more. These are not street friendly gear sets. A hardened street gear will not live in a Big HP track only car very long. Been there done that too.


#3 - "Think **** out and shootin' from the hip" - That's good advice for a teenager or a young guy, neither of which am I. My car and build is meticulously done and very well thought out. This was not my first car build and I typically do ALL my own work from engine building to paint and body and everything in between, just took a shortcut this time on the rear. My mistake.

#4 - "some things need more attention than others" - Agreed.

#5 - "if that **** whines, stop and do not drive it" - Good advice, although in my case, I knew I was going to be putting a ring and pinion in it within the first 25 miles of driving it. I had just rebuilt the car from head to toe and wanted to sort out some other stuff and hit the track a couple of times before year end.

#6 - "fact of the matter with rear ends you have to double check" - Really everything mechanical should be double, tripple, etc. checked. BUT, I don't think the majority of the board members here will agree that their 2500.00 rear end's gear set-up needs to be double checked. I will assume most cannot do that or interpret what the pattern is telling them. Most probably feel that is the service they are paying premium dollar for from the reputable vendor/supplier in which they bought it from.

Nothing personal to Moser or to the vendor I used who offered to sell me a set of gears for a $100, I am just a small fish in a big pond. Although I can make a pretty big splash with the internet. Moser's hard parts are O.K. they just need to watch their assembly closer and get better QC.

Like I said earlier do a search, I am not the first and probably won't be the last with a Moser set-up (noise) problem. Maybe the vendor who sells them should have QC procedure in place?? I have had several pm's in regards to the Moser issue. It's their reputation not mine. When rear ends are your livlihood you can't send out bad product (noisy).

IMO, if the gear vendor you are using for 'street' rear ends has gears that are considered noisy (Richmond and US Gear), don't use them! This is where profitablity means more than reputation to a company. Moser probably has a good deal from their gear vendor and can make money on the gear sets which is more important to them than having every rear end up quiet. Although in case it was defintely a set-p concern.

It is no secret Motive gears are known to be quieter and that there Performance gear will hold more power than 80% of the people on here can throw at it. So why not use it?

I just wanted to accomplish getting some info out to other members considering Moser complete rear ends so that nobody ends up in my position. As stated earlier I can fix my own mess if it has anything to do with an auto, been in this business for 20+ years. I have learned alot about building these late model GenIII F-body's from this forum and just wanted to put out some more facts whenever I can to help others and contribute. That is what makes this such a good forum to read. This ain't my first rodeo with building cars BTW. (see attach)

O.K. I am starting to feel a little better.

3fingas

iTrader: (16)

Your welcome, for helping you feel better.

PS. That is a pretty II. Used to run 6.50 in an alcohol vette in 98 until it almost detached my retna.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

These rearends are drop shipped directly from Moser. Are you saying I should have each and every one shipped to my shop so that we inspect them and then ship them out? If you do a search on here, there are quite a few people who have had noise related problems with rears from Strange as well. I can find the post for you if you want me to.

US Gear gearsets are known to be fairly quiet. Richmond are typically known for being stronger but noisy. Moser use to use Richmond gears, even though they were more expensive. Moser quit using Richmond as the primary gearset due to noise problems.


Updates from Moser since you ordered your rear, and many more are coming.
Tim Irwin, shown in this video, is the man behind a lot of these changes that are occuring at Moser.
http://www.powertvonline.com/user_vi...l.php?mId=2901

Moser now offers sway bar brackets welded on to fit the BMR Xtreme anti roll bar for $50.00.

Moser now offers lower control arm relocation brackets with three holes for adjusting the height of the lower control arms for $100.00. These brackets completely replace the original style brackets, making for a very clean appearance.

This is the second thread you have started about this, the first one was last year. I do hope you're starting to feel better! lol Bob

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Hey man..... it is a rotten deal no matter how you look at, how could you see it any other way? Put yourself in my shoes or any other customer who has this experience. It is no different than opening your wallet and throwing hundreds of dollars out into the wind - unnecessary expense. I have a shop and lift and tools, etc. Many just got a 2 car garage and a small drive to work in with jackstands - on top of that it could be there daily driver. I contacted you first about the situation when it occurred two separate times and never was an *** or insulted you, just listened to what you had to say, same as you stated earlier in this thread.

Again, my intent was not to start a whiny bitchfest or meaningless thread that had no facts. Yes, it has been months since I started the first thread, this is not my only toy and don't work on it everyday or drive it everyday. I play with it when I got the time. I am busy just like the rest of the world with work and family and other obligations, which is another reason this is a real inconvenience.

I am feeling better BTW. Good therapy is to get things off your chest!

cowboysfan

wow! all this for a problem that some peeps have.... I have about 1000 miles on my 9", try trac and no problems. I did have a local shop check out the setup before I installed it. things do and will get banged around durring shipping, we all have bad days at work. so to say this and that and should have better QC and it sux and not all will be happy about the product recieved. to many of us want this and that a certain way but not all will be pleased with the end product. yup! I know $2500k is alot of money but when U started to mod car what were u expecting to get??? I'm one of the lucky ones to not have these issues as most of ya'll stated here. which I agree with some statements. D-plug, alu-housing etc..etc.. but howmany did actually consider what it would cost and "take" to build ur dreams. I feel bad for ya'll peeps with isues but, ya'll should have checked things out before installing/useing them. only thing I agree is that Moser should have a better warranty policy. so it's ok to vent but looks like it's starting to sound like bashing. peace guys. I hope it only gets better.....

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

Didn't want the thread to sound like bashing, just wanted to get some facts out here for others, if Bob and EPP is offended I can't do anything about that. Offending them wasn't my intention, I had made no reference to EPP at all here, it was there choice to jump in. My points were made to Moser, and if these complaints help to get something resolved there with warranty procedures or QC then in the end it was worth my time typing.

Also, one more time on this, the problem was indeed the original set-up on the gear. No banging around from the UPS guy would have caused this type of scenario unless the UPS guy got out his 9/16" and removed a shim from underneath the pinion support.

I guess I am just stickler for detail, the money does upset me a bit also, but I am mostly upset with the fact that in today's world people just don't take responsibility for a problem. The situation just tends to get reversed on you until you lay down and take it. BS. I know High Perforamance is an exception to the rule in most cases with warranty, BUT there are always exceptions. I am in the business of selling aftermarket automotive product these days as well and I see this all the time; the 'exceptions' that is. You just have to read between the lines.

It's amazing how brainwashed people can get, ex: "You should have checked the set-up before it went in on your Complete NEW center chunk", how many times has then been stated in the thread?
For those with that advice.... If you bought a complete engine from a vendor, intake to pan, would you take the pan off check the oil clearance on every main and rod, pull out and mic every piston and dial bore gauge every hole, check valve run-out on all 16 valves and valve seats, check stem to guide clearance 32 times, check the balance on the rotating assembly, check all 24 ring gaps, etc, etc. do I need to go further to make my point?

On the other side of the coin, if you do check everything it is not a Bad thing, all I am saying is you shouldn't have to be expected to check it.

cowboysfan

no I would'nt check every little details but it is just the rear end which people complain about noise and those that have noise about 90 percent have not checked it, considering people are having issues I would check it for my own peace of mind. however if it was an engine then I would not break it down all the way cause it voids warranty, what I would do is check what I can without tearing the engine apart. so u see some things can be looked at to see if they did a good and correctly. yea! we are paying for the service and purchasing due to good feed back and reputation. but when we buy things we do look at them as carefully as we can. inspect and look for obvious damage/neglect. in the automotive world especially high performance things do not last and are noisie components, we dont hear them that well cause of exhaust systems to name one then u got engine wine cause of blower/timing chain/rockers etc..etc... anything that will spin faster will be noisier then if it would spin slower. how many of people complaining about noisie rear ends are still running headers with y-pipes and cat back exhaust. I sure would be able to hear them gears too. but I know what I'm getting into so I accept. or I could just leave alone what dealers did for most of complainers. make a high hp car quiet and not perform to it's potential. not to mention keep our insurance down and follow EPA rules. it's not expected to check it but I recommend it, for whats it worth. of course we all know about all this. right!! .02

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

All I will say is this.

Myself and 2 members (and good friends) have purchased Moser from Local vendors, one being EPP.

Mine initally came with 3.42's

The other 2 came 4.10's right from Moser.

ALL followed the insturcted break in period, all of them have whine, it came on as the miles came on. Nothing crazy but there is a whine.

I myself swapped the gears for a set of 4.10's and had them installed at a Sponsored shop, the whine was CONSIDERABLY less. After a few launches and miles there is more but not nearly as much as the Factory moser set up gears.

Also I will say my whine is on Acceleration, NOT the typical DEcceleration like all 3 rears exp.

But then again, like any 12/10 bolt, unless you have the car there its hard to get it 100% perfect, thats why there is specs and tolerances.

andy670ho

iTrader: (3)

I don't care who you are or what you do, If you spend $2500+ dollars on a very reputable manufacturers parts they should come to you in new condition, set up correctly, I mean $2500 is alot of money either way you look at it. There are millions of rearends driving around without any noise and last for thousands of miles, no way should you get a brand new rearend and have any issues with it.