Moser 9" options
I have a friend with 850rwhp going through a Moser 9 inch with a truetrac and he has not had any problems with it launching on big slicks (it is also a six speed car). The 12 bolt truetracs are the ones that seem to have problems with big power. Not saying that all of them will last behind that kind of power, but they seem pretty durable.
Whatever you do, order your rear through Bob at EPP. He will do his best to take care of you if you ever have a problem.
Whatever you do, order your rear through Bob at EPP. He will do his best to take care of you if you ever have a problem.
Jeff
The main issue with running a spool on the street is it will drag the wheel around the corner every time you turn. A lot of people run them but it is not very desirable.
Jeff
Jeff
Damn allot of good info in this thread I wasn't even aware of. I am getting close to ordering my moser 9'' as well. Its for a turbo car, mainly street making up to around 800rwhp or so. I am thinking 35 spline, locker, 3.50 gears and not really sure about the rest. I guess I should start looking into this abit more.
Didn't even think about the anit-roll bar brackets. Obviously get the lca brackets pretty much a must and why not a drain plug too right. Powerder coating is nice but discretion on the buyer. We'll see how it adds up. I say skip the backbrace unless some serius drag racing and get the iron center for strength. I guess the only thing I am unaware about is the anit-roll bar brackets
Didn't even think about the anit-roll bar brackets. Obviously get the lca brackets pretty much a must and why not a drain plug too right. Powerder coating is nice but discretion on the buyer. We'll see how it adds up. I say skip the backbrace unless some serius drag racing and get the iron center for strength. I guess the only thing I am unaware about is the anit-roll bar brackets
Damn allot of good info in this thread I wasn't even aware of. I am getting close to ordering my moser 9'' as well. Its for a turbo car, mainly street making up to around 800rwhp or so. I am thinking 35 spline, locker, 3.50 gears and not really sure about the rest. I guess I should start looking into this abit more.
Didn't even think about the anit-roll bar brackets. Obviously get the lca brackets pretty much a must and why not a drain plug too right. Powerder coating is nice but discretion on the buyer. We'll see how it adds up. I say skip the backbrace unless some serius drag racing and get the iron center for strength. I guess the only thing I am unaware about is the anit-roll bar brackets
Didn't even think about the anit-roll bar brackets. Obviously get the lca brackets pretty much a must and why not a drain plug too right. Powerder coating is nice but discretion on the buyer. We'll see how it adds up. I say skip the backbrace unless some serius drag racing and get the iron center for strength. I guess the only thing I am unaware about is the anit-roll bar brackets
The Moser anti-roll bar brackets are designed to work with the BMR Xtreme anti roll bar. This anti roll bar makes one heck of a difference in how a car launches off the starting line. We preload the right side of the bar, and then the car does not launch and lean to the right when coming out off the line. Bob
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com....html?item=183
The Moser anti-roll bar brackets are designed to work with the BMR Xtreme anti roll bar. This anti roll bar makes one heck of a difference in how a car launches off the starting line. We preload the right side of the bar, and then the car does not launch and lean to the right when coming out off the line. Bob
The Moser anti-roll bar brackets are designed to work with the BMR Xtreme anti roll bar. This anti roll bar makes one heck of a difference in how a car launches off the starting line. We preload the right side of the bar, and then the car does not launch and lean to the right when coming out off the line. Bob
Thanks allot Bob, that was very informative. Say what other sway bar works with the anit-roll bar brackets? I am spending a **** load right now and don't know if I can dish out another 450 for the bmr sway bar. Does it work with the stock one and/or other aftermarket ones? Thanks for your help, need to get it all down pat when I order one soon
No it doesn't work with any other bars. You could order the rear without brackets and always add them when you do go with a drag bar. For mounting the standard sway bar we normally just use 3.00" exhaust U Bolts. We use the U part and reuse the factory lower bracket, slightly oblonging the holes out. Oh, and you'll see I lowered my prices! Bob
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks allot Bob, I think that answers all my questions. I'll have to check out your updated prices. Oh one more thing, the LCA brackets. Standard vs the 3 hole mounting ones. The one for 3 holes obviously complements when lowering the rear right. For the meantime does it work with both factory and aftermarket suspension once upgraded? Thanks
Bob, the driveshaft came in the mail today, thanks again!
I would at minimum get the drain plug and relocation brackets. It would be such a pain in the *** to change the fluid if you didn't get it. I also had to weld UMI relocation brackets on my Moser 9" because i purchased my rearend before it was offered as an option. You may also consider the extended stud option if you plan on running drag wheels/slicks on the car.. i forgot when i ordered mine and had to buy a set of ARP's..no biggie tho.
I would at minimum get the drain plug and relocation brackets. It would be such a pain in the *** to change the fluid if you didn't get it. I also had to weld UMI relocation brackets on my Moser 9" because i purchased my rearend before it was offered as an option. You may also consider the extended stud option if you plan on running drag wheels/slicks on the car.. i forgot when i ordered mine and had to buy a set of ARP's..no biggie tho.
Last edited by bigsticksupra; Feb 8, 2008 at 01:10 AM.
Bob, the driveshaft came in the mail today, thanks again!
I would at minimum get the drain plug and relocation brackets. It would be such a pain in the *** to change the fluid if you didn't get it. I also had to weld UMI relocation brackets on my Moser 9" because i purchased my rearend before it was offered as an option. You may also consider the extended stud option if you plan on running drag wheels/slicks on the car.. i forgot when i ordered mine and had to buy a set of ARP's..no biggie tho.
I would at minimum get the drain plug and relocation brackets. It would be such a pain in the *** to change the fluid if you didn't get it. I also had to weld UMI relocation brackets on my Moser 9" because i purchased my rearend before it was offered as an option. You may also consider the extended stud option if you plan on running drag wheels/slicks on the car.. i forgot when i ordered mine and had to buy a set of ARP's..no biggie tho.
People on here don't recommend the TrueTrac for horsepower levels over 6-700. But like i said, my friend is making 850rwhp and launching that on slicks at the track. 1.4 sixties, manual car, and it's been like this for a year. I am not switching to a locker until my truetrac breaks.
People on here don't recommend the TrueTrac for horsepower levels over 6-700. But like i said, my friend is making 850rwhp and launching that on slicks at the track. 1.4 sixties, manual car, and it's been like this for a year. I am not switching to a locker until my truetrac breaks.
I have been fighting with this myself. I like you have heard mixed reviews of the true-trac after a certain ammount of power. At this point I am leaning maybe towards a spool, for the simple reasons of cost and strength. A compromise must be met somewhere and I would rather suffer the tires, and live with a spool, than break a posi or locker.
I have been fighting with this myself. I like you have heard mixed reviews of the true-trac after a certain ammount of power. At this point I am leaning maybe towards a spool, for the simple reasons of cost and strength. A compromise must be met somewhere and I would rather suffer the tires, and live with a spool, than break a posi or locker.
One thing I was thinking about and if someone could chime in about is hard corner acceleration? With the spool is it possible to do this? I mostly drive fairly good on the street but do like to get a lil wild at times? Does it make sense that it would be harder on the actual axles, bearings, etc to go flying around a corner or sideways and what not? Just curious, than the spool would be most likely out for roadracing than. Not that I car b/c I don't do it, more of curiousity here? Anyone with this experience?
roadracing??? throw your high speed cornering and handling out the door with a spool. UNLESS you are good at/into drifting..
this is just my opinion however. i drove my friend's car with a spool and didn't like it at all. since your car will remain a street car, go with a locker if you have doubts about the truetrac.
this is just my opinion however. i drove my friend's car with a spool and didn't like it at all. since your car will remain a street car, go with a locker if you have doubts about the truetrac.
Lockers suck. They may serve their purpose, but I dont like how the dont always lock evenly and can toss you to one side or the other. Any of the ones I have driven I did not like.
I agree, I don't the lockers either for this reason. If a person wants to autocross or roadrace, they certainly don't want a spool either. It is a tough call, but for the guy who posted above I would go with the Truetrac. The horsepower of street driven cars are at a point that was unheard of years ago, unless it was a disguised drag car being driven on the streets. These cars had a spool, but only came out on weekend nights. Bob
The only explaination I see hear is taking a chance on a truetrac breaking and have full advantage on the street, etc than suffer the loss of running a spool on the street. It sounds like the spool on the street is more like, drive with caution from point A to B from the fact of cornering, road conditions, etc.
The only explaination I see hear is taking a chance on a truetrac breaking and have full advantage on the street, etc than suffer the loss of running a spool on the street. It sounds like the spool on the street is more like, drive with caution from point A to B from the fact of cornering, road conditions, etc.