i have never installed a u joint... its the rear u joint. I was just wondering what tools and stuff like that i will need for the install going to a 1310/1350 conversion u joint since i installed a 12 bolt.

 

I used a vice, 10" crescent wrench and U joint install kit. The kit came w/ modified C clamp and some attachments.

 

i needed a press to get my factory u joint out. stock ones are injected with a plastic like material. i dont remember the exact pressure but it might have been something like 4 tons....anyway way more force than my vise could make.

 

I'd bring it to a shop/dealership and have them do it - tried it once and was a pita.

 

ya maybe ill just take it to a dealership or something. thanks for the help guys

 

a machine shop should be able to do it for you as well

 

You'll need a 8" C-clamp, 3/4 socket, propane torch, 2-4lb hammer, block of wood, some large pliers and a pair of gloves. It's very easy to do, should take about 10-15 once the driveshaft is out.

1.place driveshaft on block of wood so that the end your replacing is hanging over a little bit.

2.fire up the propane torch (use the gloves because it will get hot) and heat up the end cap (thats in the driveshaft yoke). Make sure you spread the heat around the cap and not in one spot. You'll notice that melting plastic will start running out of the holes.

3. Once the plastic seems done running out hit down on the end cap of the lose caps (the one that go on the rear end yoke) and that will drive out the cap in the drive shaft. Use your pliers and pull it out when you can

4.repeat steps 1-3 on the other cap.

5.let driveshaft cool down before touching it. Now take both end caps (the smaller ones) off the new u-joint and place the new u-joint in the yoke on the driveshaft.

6.place one of the new caps on the outside of yoke. Use your C-clamp to press it in the hole until it is flush with yoke. Making sure that u-joint itself is in the cap as you press it in there.

7.now loosen up your C-clamp and put your 3/4 socket (or smaller if it doesn't fit inside the yoke) and press into the cap pushing the cap further into the yoke. Stop once you can put the snap ring on the inside of the cap. And install the snap ring.

8.now do the other side the same.

9.you should be done at this point but check to make sure that u-joint moves freely. If not you need to beat the one of the caps back out until the u-joint moves freely. You'll hitting the caps that are not in the yoke (bigger ones) back and forth, until there is no binding on the u-joint. If you have to beat it out make sure to use a hard rubber mallet or a piece of wood between the caps.

Also be careful not lose any of the needle bearing in the caps. They shouldn't fall out but sometimes will, if they do just place them back inside of the cup. Remember this is how I do it and i'm not liable for anything you mess up. Good luck and hope this helps.

 

excellent write up!!! Dont be tempted to use a hammer to start your caps that go into the driveshaft, u will lose your needle bearings that are inside the caps! Yeash,,ask me how i know that one...I used the old caps to relieve some of the tightness my new u joint had,,,slipped the old ones on and hammered down slightly to push the caps back a bit once i got my slip rings on.

 

wear a face mask when you are using the torch. When I was doing mine the plastic inside pretty much exploded. It scared the crap out of me but somehow I was alright.

 

yep do not stand over the cap=some times the heat will cause the grease inside the cap to explod, have seen the cap go completely thew a tin wall/roof
Johnny

 

are yall using a standard small propane torch. i tried to melt some yesterday and not much happened....???

 

I used MAP gas, it's hotter than Propane. I think propane will work though.

When it's nice and hot the molten plastic will come shooting out of there, so watch out. Also watch out for the bearing cap, it could go flying as well.

 

small propane will be fine
Johnny