Just got my car inspected and it has pinion seal leak
05-06-2008, 11:06 AM
#1
Just got my car inspected and it has pinion seal leak Just turned 28k miles and I had to get the initial MD inspection. Everything passed including that but they did note it. It doesn't shock me though because if it is basically the same rear as the S-10 it did the same! So I have some questions in doing this since it has been a while.
- Best seal/brand to use? Where to get?
- I think since the yoke has to come off I will need a new pinion nut and crush sleeve. Correct? If so which type and where?
- Only way to do last step I think I need to pull the entire carrier out to set the rotational (pinion bearing) preload. What is the setting for this? In my Buick 8.5" rear it was 25" lbs. rotational.
- Don't think I want to go back with regular oil. How about gear climbing lube or synthetic? Preferred brands and viscosity?
While I am there is their anything else I should do to help it live a little longer or check out? Low mileage and not beat to death but still.
- Best seal/brand to use? Where to get?
- I think since the yoke has to come off I will need a new pinion nut and crush sleeve. Correct? If so which type and where?
- Only way to do last step I think I need to pull the entire carrier out to set the rotational (pinion bearing) preload. What is the setting for this? In my Buick 8.5" rear it was 25" lbs. rotational.
- Don't think I want to go back with regular oil. How about gear climbing lube or synthetic? Preferred brands and viscosity?
While I am there is their anything else I should do to help it live a little longer or check out? Low mileage and not beat to death but still.
05-06-2008, 11:24 AM
#2
Kind of like this writeup:
http://erareplicas.com/427man/jagrear/pin_seal.htm
Short Method - not guaranteed, but effective with a newly set up differential
The object is to maintain the precise initial pinion preload after the flange is removed and replaced. The nut must be returned to its exact position on the pinion threads.
Drain the differential oil.
Remove the driveshaft as described above.
Carefully use a punch to mark the face of the nut, the face of the flange, and end of the pinion shaft so that their relative orientation sare well defined.
Remove the nut, preferably with a breaker bar so that you can count the number of turns that are required to fully remove it. If you must use an air ratchet, note how many threads extend past the end of the nut.
Remove the flange and old seal.
Replace the seal, using a small amount of aircraft type (non-drying) gasket sealer on the edge of the seal.
Replace the flange, lining up the axle and flange punch marks.
Replace the nut. Tighten to the exact initial position, matching up the punch marks and the number of turns.
Replace the drive shaft.
Refill with 80W-90 GL5 lubricant or 90W Moroso Climbing Gear Lube (34800) enhanced with 4-8 oz. of Amalie limited slip additive (505-6775). If your limited slip seems to be sticking (ratcheting around sharp turns), substitute two tubes of GM additive (1052358) for the Amalie additive.
http://erareplicas.com/427man/jagrear/pin_seal.htm
Short Method - not guaranteed, but effective with a newly set up differential
The object is to maintain the precise initial pinion preload after the flange is removed and replaced. The nut must be returned to its exact position on the pinion threads.
Drain the differential oil.
Remove the driveshaft as described above.
Carefully use a punch to mark the face of the nut, the face of the flange, and end of the pinion shaft so that their relative orientation sare well defined.
Remove the nut, preferably with a breaker bar so that you can count the number of turns that are required to fully remove it. If you must use an air ratchet, note how many threads extend past the end of the nut.
Remove the flange and old seal.
Replace the seal, using a small amount of aircraft type (non-drying) gasket sealer on the edge of the seal.
Replace the flange, lining up the axle and flange punch marks.
Replace the nut. Tighten to the exact initial position, matching up the punch marks and the number of turns.
Replace the drive shaft.
Refill with 80W-90 GL5 lubricant or 90W Moroso Climbing Gear Lube (34800) enhanced with 4-8 oz. of Amalie limited slip additive (505-6775). If your limited slip seems to be sticking (ratcheting around sharp turns), substitute two tubes of GM additive (1052358) for the Amalie additive.
05-09-2008, 04:22 PM
#7
I just put a new seal in my moser yesterday. I have always gotten the seals from autozone. They have worked on all of my vehicles. Just pre-soak them in brake fluid for about 5 minutes first to make the seal expand. A little trick I like to use. As far as gear oil, I use Lucas gear oil. It WORKS AWESOME!!!!
