UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

A tune even on a stock car will help a lot...but the warranty is voided. I would not waste the time, money or the warranty on a tune unless you at least have headers.

A CAI is just fine without a tune...it will not hurt the car. You can pretty much do all bolt ons besides headers without having to worry about a tune.

Goodies Speed Shop

No not necessarily, We just dynoed a ls7 z06 the other day with the air raid kit installed on it and found 30rwhp after the first pull. You can use a handheld programmer to get yourself a little bit more than just the cold air alone. Diablosport has tunes specifically for vehicles with air intake kits installed.

glennster

iTrader: (1)

No, but I think the real benefits are not realized until its tuned. You may have btter throttle response.

Midnight00SS

Ok cool, wow 30rwhp is good, would that be around the same for a Camaro?
Looking at the Halltech ones

No Hope

Halltech is your best option for a air intake. ADM, Cold Air Inductions and Halltech are the top three. Halltech is the only one out of those 3 that has a plastic tube and an inverted tip air filter. The other 2 have aluminum tubes that are coated, the coating doesn't do anything despite what you might hear. I have a CAI so I'm basing my opinion off personal experience. I had to install a piece of pipe insulation over my tube to bring down the air temp to the engine and reduce the under hood air temp. The bare tube is like a flame thrower.

Get the Roto-Fab washer bottle replacement and the ADM scoop. You should see an increase of 18rwhp with any of those 3. They did not get 30rwhp more just from an air intake, 15rwhp to 18rwhp is the most you will ever see

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

yeah you won't regret it, intakes make **** stoopid fast

Goodies Speed Shop

That was for the ls7 motor. We just used that as an example of what one can expect for gains if the factory air box is somewhat restrictive.

Midnight00SS

gotcha, still not a bad increase at all, how much is the rotofab and the adm scoop?

No Hope

The Roto Fab washer bottle is about $95 and the ADM scoop is $75.

Get the washer bottle replacement for sure. It frees up the space below the air intake so cold air can be pulled in from the ground. The scoop is easy to install

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

The 1st thing I would do to a 5th gen is put gears in it. Especially if it's a 6sp. 4.33's would work nice with the tall *** 20's on it.

MI-Z/28

I don't understand why I don't hear of more people trying this.

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

True if you are staying at bolt on power levels. If you are staying with the stock differential 4.33's and a sticky tire wouldnt be the most reliable set up.

From what I have gathered the AAM 3.91 gears are the best all around and the strongest when used on the stock differential. After about 500-550 rwhp one is going to want the 9 inch irs set up or the new 12 bolt irs hammerhead set up that is on the horizon from the driveshaft shop. Though automatic cars can get away with the stock differential at higher power levels than the stick.

Not sure If I will do an upgraded stock diff (billet caps, cover, aam gears, posi mod and axles) or the hammerhead set up. I will be h/c and in the ballpark of 520 rwhp...with an m6. Borderline for sure....but I dont track very often. You will have less drivetrain loss with a stockish diff set up and be faster on the street but not as good for the track. Not sure what I will do yet.

glennster

iTrader: (1)

$200 gear changes are history and the 4.10's are getting a rap for breaking easy. These cars really need a set of at least 4.10's, I can trap at 111 in 3rd and hit the limiter a car length from the cone.
I just bought the Jannetty scoop and washer bottle kit for $135

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

Richmond updated their gears. The new 4.11 ratio richmonds are supposed to be stronger. But yeah the original 4.10's were not very good from what I gathered. And with 4.33's you are just asking for trouble IMO.

The AAM 3.91's are supposed to be factory quiet and stronger than the richmonds. My car is a daily driver and I have poly diff mounts...worried that the richmonds may be too noisy among other reasons.

MI-Z/28

What are the gear ratios for an m6 5th gen? And what is the stock tire height, 28"?

UltraZLS1

iTrader: (13)

275/40/20= 28.66

TR6060 six-speed manual (SS)

First: 3.01
Second: 2.07
Third: 1.43
Fourth: 1.00
Fifth: 0.84
Sixth: 0.57
Reverse: 3.28
Final drive ratio: 3.45

MI-Z/28

Wow, I can't believe they put a 3.45 final drive in it. MPG is the obvious answer, but a 4.10 would be a nice factory option. Playing with a gear calculator I agree with Hio, a 4.10 or 4.33 would help the 5th gen out a lot. Hopefully the aftermarket can get you guys some more durable options asap.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

The gearing is the biggest thing holding those cars back. That and the couple it with those heavey *** 20's and you find there is ALOT of room for improvement. I bet with gear and proper wheel tire selection those cars could pick up .5 in the qtr.

John Deere racer

iTrader: (13)

We will see soon
Im going to put some weld rt on the car for the track

Maybe some mid low 11s with bolt ons

No Hope

If you have a manual the 3.91 gears are the best for the quarter mile. AAM makes better gears than Richmond, even if Richmond has improved I would let someone else find out if it was true. Most like 4.11's for the street. That could be because they never tried the 3.91's.

Very few people are running the 3.91's because they are relativity new, but the people who are using them love them.

If you have an Automatic the 3.70's are the best set up. I kind of think the 3.45's might be better on an Auto for the quarter mile if you have 600rwhp or more, but I have never driven an Auto with 3.45's. I have drive an Auto with 3.70's pushing 700rwhp and it felt like it got a little flat at the end of the quarter. Also it was hard to get traction until 40mph or 50mph with the 3.70's