Which MOD Route?
#1
Which MOD Route?
I just posted in the street racing section that I got beat by a pullied cobra, so now im just torn on which direction i should take with modding that would benefit me most.... Here are my mods..
Performance
241# LS1 Stage II Ported Heads w/ stock valves
Comp Cams 244/248 .598/.598 115
Comp Cams Titanium retainers
Comp Cams 918 Springs
Comp Cams 7.350 pushrods
FAST LSX 78mm Intake
LS6 Ported oil pump
Rollermaster double roller timing chain
2.5" Off Road X pipe w/ Flo Pro Twister mufflers and optional cutouts before the mufflers.
FLP long tubes
Whisper Lid
Smooth Bellow
Home Ported Throttle Body
!AIR (have most of the emissions equipment in a box as well)
!EGR
NGK TR55's
MSD Super Conductors
Suspension/Chassis
BMR Torque arm
BMR Panhard rod
BMR SFC's
BMR Xtreme Drag anti-roll bar
Drivetrain
BaskettCase Psycho Racing fully built T-56
Ram Twin Disc Clutch
Aluminum Flywheel
Ram Adjustable Master
!CAGS
Hurst Billet Plus
Factory ten bolt with 3:42's
My car currently runs best on 87 octane and has a cam surge but other than that the car runs STOUT... im not really sure what kind of numbers to expect to gain, all i know the car is on a VERY conservative tune!
I was told the cam was great for nitrous and I know a dry or wet kit would make the car come alive!! Just like a 125 shot maybe?
Then I have the factory ten bolt with 3:42 gears and the car is an M6 with only the worst traction issues.. maybe a used 12 bolt and Nittos?
Just wanting some opinions on what the next step should be? What order? What to expect from a tune? Thanks!
Performance
241# LS1 Stage II Ported Heads w/ stock valves
Comp Cams 244/248 .598/.598 115
Comp Cams Titanium retainers
Comp Cams 918 Springs
Comp Cams 7.350 pushrods
FAST LSX 78mm Intake
LS6 Ported oil pump
Rollermaster double roller timing chain
2.5" Off Road X pipe w/ Flo Pro Twister mufflers and optional cutouts before the mufflers.
FLP long tubes
Whisper Lid
Smooth Bellow
Home Ported Throttle Body
!AIR (have most of the emissions equipment in a box as well)
!EGR
NGK TR55's
MSD Super Conductors
Suspension/Chassis
BMR Torque arm
BMR Panhard rod
BMR SFC's
BMR Xtreme Drag anti-roll bar
Drivetrain
BaskettCase Psycho Racing fully built T-56
Ram Twin Disc Clutch
Aluminum Flywheel
Ram Adjustable Master
!CAGS
Hurst Billet Plus
Factory ten bolt with 3:42's
My car currently runs best on 87 octane and has a cam surge but other than that the car runs STOUT... im not really sure what kind of numbers to expect to gain, all i know the car is on a VERY conservative tune!
I was told the cam was great for nitrous and I know a dry or wet kit would make the car come alive!! Just like a 125 shot maybe?
Then I have the factory ten bolt with 3:42 gears and the car is an M6 with only the worst traction issues.. maybe a used 12 bolt and Nittos?
Just wanting some opinions on what the next step should be? What order? What to expect from a tune? Thanks!
#3
Put some 93 in that thing too, especially if your going to run nitrous. Yea, rearend 9inch or danaS60, tires, and nitrous. That would be the cheapest route. You could upgrade to a fast 92/92 setup or some drag shocks to make that thing hook better on the street. I hope you didn't race from a roll, as that car being boosted hes going to beat you most of the time from a roll.
#4
A 9 inch rear with some GEAR in it! 4.11s MINIMUM for your power level. And dude, these cars were meant for 93 octane! Go to a good tuner with a tank full of QUALITY 93 and have them dial it in, I bet you can run more timing than you do now and pick up some power!
#5
no kidding...i wouldnt run 87 in a stock engine, let alone a h/c setup that big!!
you could be leaving all kinds of power on the table.
but gears would definatly help you. i could see a 1/2 sec increase in the quarter mile with gears and good traction.
you could be leaving all kinds of power on the table.
but gears would definatly help you. i could see a 1/2 sec increase in the quarter mile with gears and good traction.
#6
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#8
maybe try gears first, i am pretty sure you will get it. If not change the rear end. I think that will set you up for racing with what you got, but of course just add more power adders if you want. yeah dude also no 87.
#9
Thats what i thought too, 93 only right??... the car runs super rich and kinda chokes on 93.... but it rolls good with 87... im now positive im gonna go ahead and get a tune for the full potential of the motor, and i dont know about 4.11's with the factory ten bolt and M6.. i guess i should just wait for the money for a good 12 bolt with truetrac and gears already in it... i dont think it would be a good investment to put low gears in the factory rear!?
#10
#13
AND HOW IS 100 octane with the proper tune not better than 93. Please enlighten us MR Wizard!!!!!!!!
#14
I don't really know how to explain this but there is a point of diminishing returns. You actually want to run the lowest octane possible w/o predetonation.
Unless a car is tuned for 100 it will make no more power than one tuned for 93 running on 100 provided it's good 93 and is not sending your car into KR. The only reason to run higher octane is to keep the car out of KR. Boosted cars have a lot more issues with predetonation so you here hear a lot more about it from them but the reasons are obvious. Higher octane in itself provides no more power it basicallly lets you run more timing w/o predetonation that DOES give you more power. Hope this post makes sense. I am sure somebody else can explain it better.
Having said that I am sure running 87 is sending the PCM into the lower timing tables costing some power.
Last edited by SOMbitch; 10-18-2008 at 02:52 PM.