How do I tell if engine is original, rebuilt or replaced?
09-06-2009 | 11:55 AM
#1
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From: go get your shine box tommy
How do I tell if engine is original, rebuilt or replaced? So that is the question, here are the details...
I bought the car with just under 200K. CARFAX confirms the high miles with registrations but didnt say anything about major repair. It runs strong, no knocking, pinging or other unusual noises. Compression test showed between 150-160psi. Used engine oil analysis shows no excessive wear. It leaks a little oil from the pan, a decent amount thru the PCV, both of which normal for any engine. The six speed was replaced a year ago and the case is obviously new but the engine doesnt look as new and it definitely has some miles on it but I can't belive it would have that many miles and still run as good as it does.
The guy I bought it from only had it a year or so and the person before him was the original owner that drove it a long commute everyday and also took it to the dealer for everything. Fluids were all fresh even in the rear end which is still locking both tires on burnout. It was bone stock except for the flowmaster weld on muffler and the egr pipe trim free mod, odd one to go with since everything else was stock down to the paper filter. Even doing the tune up plugs were the delco irridium and were worn but not toasted.
So where are the casting numbers on the engine and can I run them to get production dates or any other info? TIA!!
I bought the car with just under 200K. CARFAX confirms the high miles with registrations but didnt say anything about major repair. It runs strong, no knocking, pinging or other unusual noises. Compression test showed between 150-160psi. Used engine oil analysis shows no excessive wear. It leaks a little oil from the pan, a decent amount thru the PCV, both of which normal for any engine. The six speed was replaced a year ago and the case is obviously new but the engine doesnt look as new and it definitely has some miles on it but I can't belive it would have that many miles and still run as good as it does.
The guy I bought it from only had it a year or so and the person before him was the original owner that drove it a long commute everyday and also took it to the dealer for everything. Fluids were all fresh even in the rear end which is still locking both tires on burnout. It was bone stock except for the flowmaster weld on muffler and the egr pipe trim free mod, odd one to go with since everything else was stock down to the paper filter. Even doing the tune up plugs were the delco irridium and were worn but not toasted.
So where are the casting numbers on the engine and can I run them to get production dates or any other info? TIA!!
Last edited by mikedamageinc; 09-06-2009 at 02:52 PM.
09-06-2009 | 12:03 PM
#2
Yes there is a date stamp on the engine block, I can't remember where it is at though. Best way to tell if it has been out or had a lot of work done in the engine bay is to look at the inside walls of the shock tower every car that has been worked on repeatedly has scratches and dings everywhere in that area where ratchets and wrenches come back and hit it when taking off heads, and valve covers, and removing the plugs and header bolts. It is not uncommon for a car even with high miles to still run good if it has been taken well care of.
09-06-2009 | 02:16 PM
#3
It's very possible that she's just been maintained. I ran into a guy with a black '99 SS that he'd owned since new and now carried 198,000 on the clock. Up until we met, it was bone stock. My car's the reason he went and put some SLP long tubes on it.
If he hadn't told me it had nearly 200k, I would have never guessed it a hair over 10k.
Possible it's a rebuild, but these engines straight up last.
If he hadn't told me it had nearly 200k, I would have never guessed it a hair over 10k.
Possible it's a rebuild, but these engines straight up last.
