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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 04:05 PM
  #21  
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The car will run fine for a few minutes then sometimes it will bog and stall if its wide open. The ses light is on and my mechanic says it said i had 700 misfires but he doesnt know why.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 04:06 PM
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You have a late 00 to 02 motor. 241 heads did not come out until late 00 so that explains that. 700 misfires? Did he tell you what cylinder, or if it is one bank or the other? I would find that out. Any mods to the car?
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 04:17 PM
  #23  
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Wow Ive been trying to find this out for 7 years and Ive asked tons of shops and mechanics and no one was able to help me. Your the man!!!! I will ask him about the misfires. The car has a slp air lid and slp loudmouth. And a ton of goodies waiting to go in as soon as i know whats wrong. I cant stress enoug how much i appreciate your help.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 05:06 PM
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Get someone to scan it for you and find out where the misfire is, my money is on one full bank, in which case you may have a clogged or bad cat.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jjjr311
When This happened I demanded to see my blown motor and the response was that it was sent in for a core...
Well, did your motor & tranny look new after they did the work?
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Arc00TA
Get someone to scan it for you and find out where the misfire is, my money is on one full bank, in which case you may have a clogged or bad cat.
I took the car out cruisin tonight and it definatley sounds and feels like a clogged cat. This is about the fourth time this has happened. It only seems to stall at full throttle. When driving at a steady 2ooorpms it sputters alot. Any idea why the cats get clogged?
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by flintwrench69
Well, did your motor & tranny look new after they did the work?
It looked new before they did the work. It was an extremely clean garage kept low mile car. It has 69k now and still looks brand new under the hood.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 11:42 PM
  #28  
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could be running rich which would clog the cats with unburnt fuel and carbon. If you have a tuner near by I'd have him check things like fuel trim.

In the mean time I'd do the rounds on plugs and wires (a good upgrade anyways), check your o2 sensors for build up (like carbon), and test your coils to be sure one or more didn't go bad.

Some sort of hand-held ODBii scanner would be a good personal investment, or something like a diablo-sport hand held tuner that at the minimum that lets you record various data straight from the pcm while driving can help with diagnosing.

I know more cost is the last thing you want to hear, but sometimes extra cost is what it takes to get things like this fixed.

Granted in your case, that 10k should have went to a good lawyer, but you were 18 at the time and I wouldn't expect you to probably push that route.
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Old Jun 19, 2010 | 11:49 PM
  #29  
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thanks for the info

Im gonna buy some longtube headers this week. Slp, arh, kooks, or qtps???? I already have slp loudmouth... I was going to buy pacesetter last week but i felt like i was cheaping out... any input?
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 12:09 AM
  #30  
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All four are pretty much top of the line, though many don't seem to care for the SLP. So I'd look price wise for a set of stainless steel ones and remember Y pipes aren't all universal fits, so you'll be looking into another $200 - $500 for a new Y.

Depending on where you live though, you might be able to get away with a cat-less system which will help with the clogging, if not the underlying cause for it.

Pace setters aren't bad, but they are budget headers which means they won't have all the same benefits the higher cost brands due. Doesn't make them bad, or cheaping out though. Not everyone is willing to spend nearly a grand just on long tubes when the same money can get you LT's and a new Y, true duals, or an entire exhaust system from LT's back to the tips.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 12:15 AM
  #31  
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Why dont people like the slp headers. I hear alot about ground clearance issues but They claim to have a "new" longtube that has 2" more clearance than the old tuned lenght/ long tube.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 12:21 AM
  #32  
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Couldn't tell you to be honest, but most of what I have read leans towards the rule of thumb that if you are gonna drop the money on SLP's, you might as well spend the tiny bit extra for kooks, arh, or qtp.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 02:24 AM
  #33  
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I have SLP, and I can tell you for the price you're better off spending a little extra for the Kooks or ARH. They look like art, my SLPs look and fit like crap.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 02:42 AM
  #34  
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What's your VIN number, I can look up your service history if it was at a stealership.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 10:20 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Arc00TA
I have SLP, and I can tell you for the price you're better off spending a little extra for the Kooks or ARH. They look like art, my SLPs look and fit like crap.
I guess its gonna be arh or kooks. It will come down to whatever I get the best price on... I got ls6 heads from a friend should I spend the extra bucks and port them before it put em on?
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #36  
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Don't port them. Unless its a very reputable person doing the work, hogging out the already huge ports on the LS6 heads will just loose you power.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:25 PM
  #37  
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I was told Ill get 50 hp from porting and getting the valves done. Its a stage III port from cartek.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jjjr311
When This happened I demanded to see my blown motor and the response was that it was sent in for a core...
Thats BS right there for 2 reasons. First off new parts do not have core charges, and secondly if you cracked the block it would not be use able so it would not be accepted as a core. It seriously sounds like you got screwed, I would never tolerate being treated that way by any business.
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Old Jun 26, 2010 | 08:44 AM
  #39  
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wow man you really got f*cked over bad. sorry to hear about your experience.
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