View Poll Results: Should I swap from auto to manual? (read below b4 voting)
row your own damn gears
36
63.16%
keep it the way it is, you'll thank me later
21
36.84%
Voters: 57. You may not vote on this poll
6-speed swap....yes or no?
12-27-2011, 08:51 AM
#42
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Of all the LS1 F-bodies that have been in and out of my group, there have been more problems relating to the M6 setup than the autos. Stock autos in stock cars have held up great, and *properly* built autos in modified cars have held up great.
12-27-2011, 09:03 AM
#43
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I did the A4 to M6 swap. What you should also consider is that unless you already have a 9" or S60 rear, you should factor that into the cost equation as well if you do decide to go the M6 route.
I enjoyed the car both ways, as a stalled auto and then as a M6 car. With the stock rear you won't enjoy getting on it very much because you will worry about toasting that rear every time you shift it hard (Rears have popped on Launch, 1,2, and 2,3 shifts) where the stalled auto is pretty soft on them until you're running low 11s usually.
Decide what you want out of the car. If you're truly done drag racing, then do the swap.
With a MN12 tranny, brand new LS7 clutch/flywheel, new hydraulics, pedals, console, factory color matched wiring, etc plus labor everything was about $2800-3000 installed. Mine was perfect, everything worked. You wouldn't know it didn't come that way stock.
As an aside, my car was quicker as an auto making 23rwhp less on the dyno than it was as an M6. Mostly because I was afraid to launch it too hard. It trapped 1mph faster as an M6 however.
I enjoyed the car both ways, as a stalled auto and then as a M6 car. With the stock rear you won't enjoy getting on it very much because you will worry about toasting that rear every time you shift it hard (Rears have popped on Launch, 1,2, and 2,3 shifts) where the stalled auto is pretty soft on them until you're running low 11s usually.
Decide what you want out of the car. If you're truly done drag racing, then do the swap.
With a MN12 tranny, brand new LS7 clutch/flywheel, new hydraulics, pedals, console, factory color matched wiring, etc plus labor everything was about $2800-3000 installed. Mine was perfect, everything worked. You wouldn't know it didn't come that way stock.
As an aside, my car was quicker as an auto making 23rwhp less on the dyno than it was as an M6. Mostly because I was afraid to launch it too hard. It trapped 1mph faster as an M6 however.
12-27-2011, 11:03 AM
#44
I did the A4 to M6 swap. What you should also consider is that unless you already have a 9" or S60 rear, you should factor that into the cost equation as well if you do decide to go the M6 route.
I enjoyed the car both ways, as a stalled auto and then as a M6 car. With the stock rear you won't enjoy getting on it very much because you will worry about toasting that rear every time you shift it hard (Rears have popped on Launch, 1,2, and 2,3 shifts) where the stalled auto is pretty soft on them until you're running low 11s usually.
Decide what you want out of the car. If you're truly done drag racing, then do the swap.
With a MN12 tranny, brand new LS7 clutch/flywheel, new hydraulics, pedals, console, factory color matched wiring, etc plus labor everything was about $2800-3000 installed. Mine was perfect, everything worked. You wouldn't know it didn't come that way stock.
I enjoyed the car both ways, as a stalled auto and then as a M6 car. With the stock rear you won't enjoy getting on it very much because you will worry about toasting that rear every time you shift it hard (Rears have popped on Launch, 1,2, and 2,3 shifts) where the stalled auto is pretty soft on them until you're running low 11s usually.
Decide what you want out of the car. If you're truly done drag racing, then do the swap.
With a MN12 tranny, brand new LS7 clutch/flywheel, new hydraulics, pedals, console, factory color matched wiring, etc plus labor everything was about $2800-3000 installed. Mine was perfect, everything worked. You wouldn't know it didn't come that way stock.
12-27-2011, 11:24 AM
#45
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It was probably a day's worth of work. The longest parts were bleeding the clutch, and cutting/installing the clutch master cylinder.
12-27-2011, 09:32 PM
#46
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I know of a couple people that have done the swap and love it. After driving a friend's M6 car, I've pretty much decided to go six speed once my A4 breaks. IMO, M6 cars are a million times more fun to cruise around on the street.
12-28-2011, 06:33 AM
#48
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You'll also need to re-tune it on a dyno because the a/f will be off significantly due to the increased load the engine faces with a locked clutch system vs a torque converter.
12-28-2011, 11:42 AM
#52
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I'm not saying the car won't run if you just swap all current settings to an M6 tune, it will. But you'll probably be leaving a bit on the table until you retune it.
In my car's case it ran fine, but gained only 3rwhp from A4 to M6 until the tune was corrected and the a/f was leaned out adding another 25rwhp. The car wasn't tuned as an auto with the converter locked in 3rd (who would do this??), maybe if it had been then the difference would be minimal after the swap.
Just my experience.
In my car's case it ran fine, but gained only 3rwhp from A4 to M6 until the tune was corrected and the a/f was leaned out adding another 25rwhp. The car wasn't tuned as an auto with the converter locked in 3rd (who would do this??), maybe if it had been then the difference would be minimal after the swap.
Just my experience.
And I like rowing gears.
01-08-2012, 03:52 PM
#56
I know the A4 guys are gonna say your car will be slower in the 1/4 but I have very little faith in the reliability of a 4l60. Countless stories about how they dont last & just had to have mine replaced in my 06 pickup with only 77k behind a 4.3. The M6 is much better trans hands down, other than the upgrades to the clutch, shifter & Tick MC so it works better at high RPM shifts I havent had to do a thing to the trans in the 3 yrs I owned it, its easier to PCM tune & better gas mileage too.
