Royal Purple change its blend?
01-20-2012, 07:21 AM
#21
Ill be trying out the hps oil and giving my thoughts on that soon. ". Currently trying to use up sone castrol i bought on sale". And they have another oil for pure racing that I would love somone to review.
Again their blends changed so I may totally hate their oil now.
01-20-2012, 10:17 AM
#22
Just saying there are a lot of factors that affect the mileage which are difficult to impossible to account for outside of a controlled environment.
Fuel consistency being the biggest, especially with the switches from summer/winter blends and the inconsistency of ethanol content. Some branded stations do not even always buy their brand of fuel.
Not criticizing your decision either way, but I will remain skeptical of any claim to variance of over 1mpg unless a scientific test is done.
Fuel consistency being the biggest, especially with the switches from summer/winter blends and the inconsistency of ethanol content. Some branded stations do not even always buy their brand of fuel.
Not criticizing your decision either way, but I will remain skeptical of any claim to variance of over 1mpg unless a scientific test is done.
01-21-2012, 08:44 AM
#25
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we use RP in our motors at work (45 liter cummins) and we change the filters every 400 hrs and the oil every 800 hrs. i like RP only since i get it for free lol
01-21-2012, 11:10 AM
#26
The RP guy said that if you have already running RP for a few changes, that they rate their oil to 12,000 miles as well. I asked the sane thing as i change the filter everytime. I may try using the same filter for 2 changes... But i usually change at 5000 miles give or take...
01-23-2012, 02:06 PM
#28
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been putting walmart special $1.25/quart in my old jeep....Sometimes when Im lazy I just throw oil at it instead of changing it. ....still running 210,000 miles strong.
01-25-2012, 08:30 AM
#31
Other than its overpriced no. The gear oil is a ridiculous price, 2qts of Mobil Gear oil is less than 1 of RP. For transmissions normal dex/merc works the best. PS fluid isn't anything fancy unless you road race.
01-25-2012, 09:59 AM
#32
Aside from price? Is it just not good?Good but not any better etc?? Price has never really been an issue with me. I make just enough that i dont worry about how much most things cost, but still not enough that i dont have to worry about bills lol
01-25-2012, 10:07 AM
#33
The PS fluid is good but not any better unless you need synthetic to keep up with autocrossing. Our transmissions will be damaged using synthetic. And the gear oil is the same as the ps fluid. Dino oil is recommended for the rear end, but like I said it isn't worth the 9 dollar mark up over Mobil
01-25-2012, 10:18 AM
#34
Staging Lane
I remember reading about (although I can't find it) ASE approved oils needing to meet certain emissions standards. All motor oils have a mineral package built into them which increases viscosity index, shear strength, anti-foaming, flash point etc. There are shear strength compounds added (sulfur compounds...?) which are excellent metal protectors but add to emissions when the oil is burned in the combustion. So, in general, ASE approved oils must have less of this compound, and are not as effective at separating metal parts under high load - but burn cleaner.
Unfortunately, MOST people aren't aware of this, and any oil company knows that an ASE label will sell more oil, whether it's actually better or not - so it appears that RP has become more concerned with bottom line profits (can't blame them) than producing a unique performance oriented product.
Again, I can't back this up with hard core data, but that's my recollection (FWIW).
Unfortunately, MOST people aren't aware of this, and any oil company knows that an ASE label will sell more oil, whether it's actually better or not - so it appears that RP has become more concerned with bottom line profits (can't blame them) than producing a unique performance oriented product.
Again, I can't back this up with hard core data, but that's my recollection (FWIW).
01-25-2012, 10:25 AM
#35
I remember reading about (although I can't find it) ASE approved oils needing to meet certain emissions standards. All motor oils have a mineral package built into them which increases viscosity index, shear strength, anti-foaming, flash point etc. There are shear strength compounds added (sulfur compounds...?) which are excellent metal protectors but add to emissions when the oil is burned in the combustion. So, in general, ASE approved oils must have less of this compound, and are not as effective at separating metal parts under high load - but burn cleaner.
Unfortunately, MOST people aren't aware of this, and any oil company knows that an ASE label will sell more oil, whether it's actually better or not - so it appears that RP has become more concerned with bottom line profits (can't blame them) than producing a unique performance oriented product.
Again, I can't back this up with hard core data, but that's my recollection (FWIW).
Unfortunately, MOST people aren't aware of this, and any oil company knows that an ASE label will sell more oil, whether it's actually better or not - so it appears that RP has become more concerned with bottom line profits (can't blame them) than producing a unique performance oriented product.
Again, I can't back this up with hard core data, but that's my recollection (FWIW).
What they told me is the blend was changed in their regular oil to meet the criteria set for new car warranty purposes. For cars without a warranty they HIGHLY suggest hps labeled oil as its far superior, for a race car they have a 3rd line of oil dedicated to race cars.
01-25-2012, 10:25 AM
#36
One of the most reputable engine builders in our area used to use Royal Purple. He built a bunch of roundy round & offshore marine engines and dyno'd them all before delivery. He said that those engines all made more power on his dyno with Royal Purple.
However, the bulk of the engines that he built were small block & big block chevy.
However, the bulk of the engines that he built were small block & big block chevy.
01-25-2012, 10:28 AM
#37
Staging Lane
Yah... that makes sense. A racing oil wouldn't have to meet emissions standards, and would by definition need to perform better.
01-25-2012, 10:38 AM
#38
One of the most reputable engine builders in our area used to use Royal Purple. He built a bunch of roundy round & offshore marine engines and dyno'd them all before delivery. He said that those engines all made more power on his dyno with Royal Purple.
However, the bulk of the engines that he built were small block & big block chevy.
However, the bulk of the engines that he built were small block & big block chevy.
One of our best engine builders uses RP and recomends it as well. Before I was at his shop I though RP was just off brand.
01-25-2012, 10:41 AM
#39
Had some understandings of LSx motors refering to my trans am
As an "ls" motor after i just told him
My car type. Most of the info i posted in here came from his mouth. A tech, not a sales person.
01-25-2012, 03:41 PM
#40
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Rarely do high horsepower big blocks get driven 10,000 miles a year.
Just because an oil makes more power doesn't mean it's a superior lubricant. I'll gladly take a 4HP hit by going with an oil that has proven to provide added protection and longevity vs. peak numbers. Depends on what you want...every last horsepower, or an oil that can possible keep your bearings in shape for 400,000 miles?
Same holds true with air filters....everyone is caught up with air flow values, but I rather run with a filter that captures the most, and smallest particles possible vs. a filter that outflows the others by 10 CFM, but hardly catches particles below ~20 microns. (FYI, humans can see down to 40 microns)
As with most things, there is a trade-off. In some cases, it's also price driven as well.
Just because an oil makes more power doesn't mean it's a superior lubricant. I'll gladly take a 4HP hit by going with an oil that has proven to provide added protection and longevity vs. peak numbers. Depends on what you want...every last horsepower, or an oil that can possible keep your bearings in shape for 400,000 miles?
Same holds true with air filters....everyone is caught up with air flow values, but I rather run with a filter that captures the most, and smallest particles possible vs. a filter that outflows the others by 10 CFM, but hardly catches particles below ~20 microns. (FYI, humans can see down to 40 microns)
As with most things, there is a trade-off. In some cases, it's also price driven as well.
