Rustproofing - Let's discuss..
05-13-2012, 02:15 PM
#21
I just got done applying POR15 to everything I could get to on the bottom side of my car. I was just starting to see a few rust specs starting to appear. I did everything I could reach. Only bare areas I have now are behind the fuel/brake lines and between the subframe connectors and the body (wish I would have thought to done it years ago before installing the subframe connectors.)
I did 2 coats and 1 pint was just shy of being enough, and 1 qrt is plenty.
I did from the firewall to the rear body seam, above the rear axle and then both rear frame rails to the rear bumper. I also did the inside of the rear inner fenders. I got into every crack/crevice I could.
I know it is not a "cure all", but I did mine to preserve it as long as possible.
I did 2 coats and 1 pint was just shy of being enough, and 1 qrt is plenty.
I did from the firewall to the rear body seam, above the rear axle and then both rear frame rails to the rear bumper. I also did the inside of the rear inner fenders. I got into every crack/crevice I could.
I know it is not a "cure all", but I did mine to preserve it as long as possible.
Last edited by Blu99T/A; 05-13-2012 at 02:30 PM.
05-13-2012, 04:31 PM
#22
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I just got done applying POR15 to everything I could get to on the bottom side of my car. I was just starting to see a few rust specs starting to appear. I did everything I could reach. Only bare areas I have now are behind the fuel/brake lines and between the subframe connectors and the body (wish I would have thought to done it years ago before installing the subframe connectors.)
I did 2 coats and 1 pint was just shy of being enough, and 1 qrt is plenty.
I did from the firewall to the rear body seam, above the rear axle and then both rear frame rails to the rear bumper. I also did the inside of the rear inner fenders. I got into every crack/crevice I could.
I know it is not a "cure all", but I did mine to preserve it as long as possible.
I did 2 coats and 1 pint was just shy of being enough, and 1 qrt is plenty.
I did from the firewall to the rear body seam, above the rear axle and then both rear frame rails to the rear bumper. I also did the inside of the rear inner fenders. I got into every crack/crevice I could.
I know it is not a "cure all", but I did mine to preserve it as long as possible.
Did you powerwash/clean the undercarriage before applying the POR15 kit?
05-13-2012, 06:39 PM
#23
I can get some after pics as it is still a little in the air, but to be honest, it is all black. lol I will try to get some.
I just scuffed, then sprayed wax/grease remover (same as you use for paint prep) and wiped it down 2 times before applying the POR15. Fortunately, the underside of mine was pretty clean.
I did drop the driveshaft to get up into the trans tunnel and I had the exhaust/headers off as I was in the process of placing/upgrading them.
Sponge brushes worked good for me.
05-14-2012, 08:17 AM
#29
Wire brush to knock off any loose paint/rust/etc and Nitrile gloves as you do not want to get that stuff on you. Wear EYE protection, it is not fun to have a drop get in your eye as you lie under the car, ask me how I know. Lastly, wear clothes that you don't care about.
05-14-2012, 10:51 AM
#30
Blu99T/A has it right. Prep and safety. Ventilation is your friend, I also recommend wearing a 3m respirator (not an N95 mask). POR15 works well, and many are familiar with it, I posted the pic of the rust bullet just to illustrate the difference in finish. The prep between the two is similar.
05-14-2012, 02:37 PM
#31
Cars like this are hard to find around Chicago at this point. Only super low mileage garage queens will be this clean, as any exposure to regular weather conditions around here will age the undercarrige very quickly. The other option would be to import a car from the south/southwest. Having said that, you'll probably still spend less making the trade to a rust free one rather than spending the money to actually restore the entire undercarrige of your current car. The price of a restoration (especially if you're not doing the work yourself) gets out of hand very quickly. If simply covering it with POR15 is acceptable to you though, then this will be the most affordable option.
My solution to this was to buy a second F-body for more regular use. The nice one just stays in the garage now, only coming out for the occasional show or perfect weather drive. Even on my garage queen, which has never been driven in rain, the bare metal areas still develop some minor surface rust (axle, uncoated bolts, etc.).....nothing of concern though.
My solution to this was to buy a second F-body for more regular use. The nice one just stays in the garage now, only coming out for the occasional show or perfect weather drive. Even on my garage queen, which has never been driven in rain, the bare metal areas still develop some minor surface rust (axle, uncoated bolts, etc.).....nothing of concern though.
I was under my car today, and way way up in the lower rad support area, I saw some light surface rust AND a 2-4 inch area of surface rust on my K member closest to the wheel.
Just gotta live with it.
