Improving The "Quality Feel" of an F-Body.
09-23-2012, 08:03 PM
#41
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has anyone used second skin spectrum sludge? It's a much cheaper route than any mat style sound deadeners and seems like I could at least yank the carpet from behind the front seats back and apply this rather easily. I don't really want to **** away my money though...any reviews?
09-23-2012, 08:44 PM
#42
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if you are running the stock shocks, swapping those out will make a world of difference. night and day the stock shocks on your car have probably been bad for years.
09-23-2012, 09:22 PM
#43
1. Good tires w/proper air pressure, an avoid heavy cast wheel if possible.
2.Front-end alignment
3. New Bushings(including the exhaust)
4. Good Shocks
5. Strano sway-bars
6. Sound deadening (The good stuff not the cheap tar/asphalt stuff).
You'll want some spray-on under the car. Peel-an-stick type under the dash pad, in the doors, on the floor, under the headliner, in behind the factory subwoofers and the whole trunk area including the back side of the rear qtr panels.
IMO if you plan on lowering the car consider BMR front lowering A-arms and Ridetech rear coolride kit with manual air valves.
FYI,I know I left out a bunch of things, but many have already been addressed.
2.Front-end alignment
3. New Bushings(including the exhaust)
4. Good Shocks
5. Strano sway-bars
6. Sound deadening (The good stuff not the cheap tar/asphalt stuff).
You'll want some spray-on under the car. Peel-an-stick type under the dash pad, in the doors, on the floor, under the headliner, in behind the factory subwoofers and the whole trunk area including the back side of the rear qtr panels.
IMO if you plan on lowering the car consider BMR front lowering A-arms and Ridetech rear coolride kit with manual air valves.
FYI,I know I left out a bunch of things, but many have already been addressed.
09-24-2012, 01:13 PM
#45
28-32 is the pressure range I run mine at. Second Skin makes really good sound deadening, it's pricey but then there's no doubt whether you could have done it better with Second Skin. I'd suggest breaking it down and doing it in stages that way you can also spread out the cost.
09-25-2012, 05:01 AM
#46
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I daily drive a cammed M6 LS1 with 3.5" headers. X-pipe, magnaflow race bullets, and turndowns forward of the rear axle.
I get a raging boner every time I turn the key.
Rattles? Dude, it's a Camaro. If I wanted to be numb to what I drive, I'd buy a civic.
Now that I'm sure you're not reading an further I'll tell you; I'm willing to bet it's the paneling in your hatch that's rattling. Mine does. And no amount of sound deadening will fix it. It's two pieces of flimsy plastic and they just rattle any time the car gets to a certain resonance. My advice? Just turn up the radio and roll down the window, throw on your ray-bans and forget about it.
.
I get a raging boner every time I turn the key.
Rattles? Dude, it's a Camaro. If I wanted to be numb to what I drive, I'd buy a civic.
Now that I'm sure you're not reading an further I'll tell you; I'm willing to bet it's the paneling in your hatch that's rattling. Mine does. And no amount of sound deadening will fix it. It's two pieces of flimsy plastic and they just rattle any time the car gets to a certain resonance. My advice? Just turn up the radio and roll down the window, throw on your ray-bans and forget about it.
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Last edited by wornoutshoes; 09-25-2012 at 05:21 AM.
09-25-2012, 10:08 AM
#47
I daily drive a cammed M6 LS1 with 3.5" headers. X-pipe, magnaflow race bullets, and turndowns forward of the rear axle.
I get a raging boner every time I turn the key.
Rattles? Dude, it's a Camaro. If I wanted to be numb to what I drive, I'd buy a civic.
Now that I'm sure you're not reading an further I'll tell you; I'm willing to bet it's the paneling in your hatch that's rattling. Mine does. And no amount of sound deadening will fix it. It's two pieces of flimsy plastic and they just rattle any time the car gets to a certain resonance. My advice? Just turn up the radio and roll down the window, throw on your ray-bans and forget about it.
.
I get a raging boner every time I turn the key.
Rattles? Dude, it's a Camaro. If I wanted to be numb to what I drive, I'd buy a civic.
Now that I'm sure you're not reading an further I'll tell you; I'm willing to bet it's the paneling in your hatch that's rattling. Mine does. And no amount of sound deadening will fix it. It's two pieces of flimsy plastic and they just rattle any time the car gets to a certain resonance. My advice? Just turn up the radio and roll down the window, throw on your ray-bans and forget about it.
.
09-25-2012, 10:25 AM
#48
i agree with the muscle car rumble and cam shaking the car. but if my my rear end didnt slam so loud on certain bumps that would be great. i hate when driving and i see bumps coming up and i clinch knowing its gonna hit hard.
do subframe connectors solve some rattles and noises? i have read they do.
i would love to have a new car feeling to my trans am. would be more enjoyable for the woman when we go cruising.
my setup is :
UMI PHB poly/roto
UMI LCA's poly/roto
KYB monotube rear shocks.
stock spings
stock front suspension
doesnt help my tires are really hard compund. or so it seems. Kumho Ecsta Supras. i hate them.
this thread has really helped and added to my list of stuff to do this winter
do subframe connectors solve some rattles and noises? i have read they do.
i would love to have a new car feeling to my trans am. would be more enjoyable for the woman when we go cruising.
my setup is :
UMI PHB poly/roto
UMI LCA's poly/roto
KYB monotube rear shocks.
stock spings
stock front suspension
doesnt help my tires are really hard compund. or so it seems. Kumho Ecsta Supras. i hate them.
this thread has really helped and added to my list of stuff to do this winter
09-25-2012, 11:02 AM
#50
I did my interior with second skin damplifier pro and luxury liner pro. I haven't driven the car much since the install cause my new bumper is at the shop getting painted but the car is def quiter inside but more then that just has a more solid feel. I still have to finish the hatch area. This stuff is not cheap though. I'm in about $650 just for the dampening. I have koni/stranos on the way. Sfc waiting to be installed.
09-25-2012, 11:19 AM
#51
I did my interior with second skin damplifier pro and luxury liner pro. I haven't driven the car much since the install cause my new bumper is at the shop getting painted but the car is def quiter inside but more then that just has a more solid feel. I still have to finish the hatch area. This stuff is not cheap though. I'm in about $650 just for the dampening. I have koni/stranos on the way. Sfc waiting to be installed.
09-25-2012, 02:13 PM
#52
What kind of bumps are you guys hitting at what speed to hit bump stops with Koni's - Hell even stock shocks! You want refinement and yet want to fly over bumps like they don't exist? My advice - slow down over bumps, driveway entrances, and avoid badly paved or broken pavement roads. These are f-bodies, not pickups or luxury SUVs!
09-25-2012, 02:42 PM
#53
TECH Senior Member
What kind of bumps are you guys hitting at what speed to hit bump stops with Koni's - Hell even stock shocks! You want refinement and yet want to fly over bumps like they don't exist? My advice - slow down over bumps, driveway entrances, and avoid badly paved or broken pavement roads. These are f-bodies, not pickups or luxury SUVs!
You hit the bump once, its firm but not jarring, the car still feels solid, and the car doesnt bounce at all afterwards, thats generally what you want.
09-25-2012, 02:54 PM
#54
I did my interior with second skin damplifier pro and luxury liner pro. I haven't driven the car much since the install cause my new bumper is at the shop getting painted but the car is def quiter inside but more then that just has a more solid feel. I still have to finish the hatch area. This stuff is not cheap though. I'm in about $650 just for the dampening. I have koni/stranos on the way. Sfc waiting to be installed.
IMO, it's well worth the effort!
__________________
09-25-2012, 04:19 PM
#55
Its not about not feeling the bumps, even high end luxury cars like BMW still feel the bumps, they just are not jarring and feel like someone is stabbing your kidneys or hitting the underside of the car with a metal baseball bat, at the same time they are also not hitting the bump and having the car move up and down 5 times, feeling loose, before settling down.
You hit the bump once, its firm but not jarring, the car still feels solid, and the car doesnt bounce at all afterwards, thats generally what you want.
You hit the bump once, its firm but not jarring, the car still feels solid, and the car doesnt bounce at all afterwards, thats generally what you want.
09-25-2012, 04:39 PM
#56
I didn't get to the doors yet but will def follow your idea. My last car was a BMW 650 and the thing was solid as all hell. A lot having to do with weight but mostly having all the sound dampening materials as well as zero wind noise. The car was so sealed up the windows would fog so easily. I would cruise at 115 like it was 60mph, my c6 vette before that Would feel scary and unplanted at 85. A lot of it is psychological based on sound IMO
09-25-2012, 05:52 PM
#57
I did the same in my car and my sons car, except with regular Damplifier and Overkill Pro glued to it, it cut out a bunch of noise, made the speakers sound better, and the doors now have a solid sound when closed now.
I'd also glue the two together with the spray adhesive a full day before you install it, that way you won't have any lingering spray adhesive smell in the car. I also install a couple of the 6" x 8" pieces on the metal behind each of the factory sub locations, an 4 each on each Qtr panel after the wheel wells.
I'd also glue the two together with the spray adhesive a full day before you install it, that way you won't have any lingering spray adhesive smell in the car. I also install a couple of the 6" x 8" pieces on the metal behind each of the factory sub locations, an 4 each on each Qtr panel after the wheel wells.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 09-25-2012 at 05:59 PM.
10-02-2012, 09:01 AM
#59
It's the poly bushings, worn shocks and hard tires. Switch those up and you'll be happier with the ride. For interior rattles I found it works well to put something between plastic joints... anywhere two plastic pieces meet. Be it felt tape or duct tape, something other than plastic on plastic should work.
10-02-2012, 07:15 PM
#60
Launching!
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x1,000,000 on exhaust...
i bought a gto with 711 miles on it. it was as new of a used car you could buy in 2008. everything was tight, no squeaks or funny noise. Installed an SLP lm1 cat back dumped. i started noticing interior noises more and more.
i bought a gto with 711 miles on it. it was as new of a used car you could buy in 2008. everything was tight, no squeaks or funny noise. Installed an SLP lm1 cat back dumped. i started noticing interior noises more and more.